If the rear axle needs replacing the moment it comes off you'll need other parts replaced too.
So best to sell and leave the job to someone else.
General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation
- Thread starter JoleePando
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General 2010 Fiat Panda - Parts recommendation
So best to sell and leave the job to someone else.
Low tax, good mpg, cheap insurance
So desirable, at the moment, a poor example would be £1600
If you were doing it yourself it's a no brainer
So desirable, at the moment, a poor example would be £1600
If you were doing it yourself it's a no brainer
Yea, it's a sobering thought. Of course you might be lucky and find that it all goes well but with all the corrosion problems we get up here (due to winter salting of the roads in large part) it's more than likely problems will be found.
Just out of interest, was it Kenny's garage on the trading estate off the foot of Leith Walk? If so his advice can be relied on for sure.
This is the quandry I'm faced with. Our panda is in pretty good nick generally and over the years I've replaced many parts of the suspension and other stuff like the metal water pipe on the engine. Bodywork has many serviceable years in it yet. She will need a cambelt soon but I'm confident I can still manage to do that. The problem with the rear axle is I'd like to do it myself and I certainly have the tools and knowledge to do it but my heath and general "robustness" has taken a bit of a dive over the last year and I'm really not sure if I've got it in me to do a more physical task like this any more. It's a shame too as she's a dynamic eco with sunroof etc and only £30 a year road tax. I think what I may do is run her until she fails then park her in my driveway, declare SORN on her and slowly and at my leisure attempt the repair myself. In the meantime I'll be keeping my eyes open for any interesting alternatives which turn up at the local wee garages just in case a bargain presents itself.
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It was Steve at Bonnington Mill, one of the two you recommended.
Deliberating today over what to do.
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Yeah, this is the issue I’ve got. The battle in my own head - haha!
If it was around £400, it may be the path of least resistance to simply get it done and ride it till the wheels come off (which they are).
The issue wasn’t noted as an advisory at MOT which was interesting.
Ah yes, the Honda chap, another one who's advice can be taken with confidence. Good luck with your deliberations. We're just about to leave to take the grandkids out for the day. Hope we survive it!, but no, it'll be great fun and as their parents won't be with us I'll get to spoil them with ice creams, sweeties and other "forbidden" treats. Just as long as we get them back home without being sick in my nice new Scala!
Yes
It's an easier decision if it was an older version as you save over £100 a year in tax
If you get a new but older car, you probably still have to spend out on cambelt, brakes, clutch, suspension and so on, unless you are very lucky, it depends how much of this has already been done on the car
Post a picture of the axle, from the passenger side rear wheel
The rear axle is less daunting that it looks.
When I did mine, the only issue was the bolts holding the hub to the axle, these are tight, and the nuts rust on. Most of the studs came out with the nut, although one stud refused to come out, but the nut did come off instead. Apart from that one, I replaced all the others with new studs and nuts. An impact driver, if able to get it in there, would be a bonus. Studs and nuts were supplied by Shop4Parts.
It is possible to detach the brake backplates, and hang them up, to avoid brake bleeding, but I removed mine, taking the opportunity to overhaul the brakes at the same time, new cylinders, pipes and hoses.
Jack the back end up, support ahead of the axle pivots on stands. Support the axle and remove the dampers, and the axle will drop to the ground. At that point you can remove the hubs, to reduce the weight of it. Once bare, remove the pivot brackets and drop it to the floor.
When I did mine, the only issue was the bolts holding the hub to the axle, these are tight, and the nuts rust on. Most of the studs came out with the nut, although one stud refused to come out, but the nut did come off instead. Apart from that one, I replaced all the others with new studs and nuts. An impact driver, if able to get it in there, would be a bonus. Studs and nuts were supplied by Shop4Parts.
It is possible to detach the brake backplates, and hang them up, to avoid brake bleeding, but I removed mine, taking the opportunity to overhaul the brakes at the same time, new cylinders, pipes and hoses.
Jack the back end up, support ahead of the axle pivots on stands. Support the axle and remove the dampers, and the axle will drop to the ground. At that point you can remove the hubs, to reduce the weight of it. Once bare, remove the pivot brackets and drop it to the floor.
Which makes me think the axle may look scabby but might be sound.
There's no way to know if it's only surface rust, or deep corrosion that can weaken the metal, unless you get back to clean metal.
That needs axle stands, a good jack and an angle grinder. Only attempt it if you can safely get under the car.
Smearing on grease, old oil, or a specialist product like Lanoguard can slow down the rusting to prolong the life of the car.
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There we go. A picture of both sides.
Attachments
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I’ve a feeling it’ll still be out of my wheelhouse unfortunately. I’m really not adept in any of this, and unfortunately don’t have jacks, stands, etc.
I do have a friend that’s a mechanic, not local, but always worth giving him a shout if he thought it’s something we could do together.
If I were you I'd get under there with a wire brush and also a hammer/chisel and see if the rust is as bad as it looks. It might just look bad but be solid underneath.
If its as bad as it looks and you can't fix it yourself then you'll have to spend half the value of the car to have someone else repair it...and should just sell.
First picture doesn't look right
Looks like it's been patched previously badly
And weak near the shock mount
Needs someone else to look at it I get confused looks at photos, it's much easier when your under the car and got your orientation
Going out now, I look at some photos when I get back if nobody chimes in first
Looks like it's been patched previously badly
And weak near the shock mount
Needs someone else to look at it I get confused looks at photos, it's much easier when your under the car and got your orientation
Going out now, I look at some photos when I get back if nobody chimes in first
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Aye, that’s what the mechanic told me. It’s definitely been patched at some point, something I didn’t notice when I purchased it.
I’m taking it in next week the Bonnington so we’ll see what the options are and, if necessary, it’ll be a sell job.
If that has been patched, and it looks like it has, it needs a new axle, soon.
I just magnified that first picture and it's pretty clear that it's a patch
Looks like a big crack running vertically just inboard of the bottom shocker bolt on the right hand side too?
Difficult to recommend anything other than replacing the axle.
Once a car is this old and has this level of corrosion, I'd question whether it's economically viable to keep it on the road unless you can do the work yourself.
Is suspect under that patch looks like this
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Cor, awesome!
