im on page 19 too but on page 17 and 18 it was saying there was only 18 pages?!?! lol
Tuning turbo time!
- Thread starter craigb244
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Tuning turbo time!
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haha yeh but i was the first to bring it up
You weren't actually
We (arc included) discussed rear mount turbos at Stanford Hall almost a year ago
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My boost pipe is stainless and it runs straight oever the top of the engine, out of the intercooler and even after good hard use the pipe is always ice cold. I do have my manifold heat wrapped though which is a big help. You can always heat wrap to boost pipe if you are that concerned about it, many other people have done that
As for exhasts if you want it quiet put a cat in, not only does it help save the planet it makes it a quieter place too. I really didn't how loud mine was with the decat pipe in so once i was sure the fuelling was right I fitted my sports cat and it had zero impact on the performance.
As for exhasts if you want it quiet put a cat in, not only does it help save the planet it makes it a quieter place too. I really didn't how loud mine was with the decat pipe in so once i was sure the fuelling was right I fitted my sports cat and it had zero impact on the performance.
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GRRR *huf*You weren't actually
I have a sports cat that i will fit when the car it finished been tuned (no point melting the thing when it hits boost and goes uber rich)Ill probably only fit it for mot to be fair... if you fueling is set up well enough a cat wont effect emissions much anyway
I will wrap the manifold at some point as i have a load of the stuff down the garage (just need some clips/ties) as far as i know it also protects the manifold from cracks caused by water. (water either boils away or it hot enough by the time it hits the manifold to not cause thermal shock)
Seriously having a hi flow cat in place makes bugger all difference to the performance it is just not worth the hassel of continually swapping it about
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I get it. You can always get there by going through the paages -- takes ages. Methinks it's a bug.
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started rewiring the car today looks MUCH neater already. ive removed the fiat relays and added the megasquirt relay board.
I beefed up the board on the Fidle relay so i can use it to control the fan. left it on for a good 10mins and nothing got even the slightest bit warm.. with any luck my cars temps will stay perfect
me and dad where also talking about intercooler fan. basically another ecu controlled fan that comes on if intake temps rise above a set level.
we are not really sure if its worth the effort... its when it comes to autotest when driving at high engine loads at low speed
I beefed up the board on the Fidle relay so i can use it to control the fan. left it on for a good 10mins and nothing got even the slightest bit warm.. with any luck my cars temps will stay perfect
me and dad where also talking about intercooler fan. basically another ecu controlled fan that comes on if intake temps rise above a set level.
we are not really sure if its worth the effort... its when it comes to autotest when driving at high engine loads at low speed
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you can edit the page number in the URL
eg on page 2 there is a 2 at the end of the url
just change it to the page number you want/need
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It's ice cold because it's a good conductor and the air passing through the inside of the pipe quickly draws the heat out and dumps it in the intake
It's ice cold because it's a good conductor and the air passing through the inside of the pipe quickly draws the heat out and dumps it in the intake
Well I rekon is more down to the air entering the turbo being nice and cold to start with as the intake is not in the engine bay and then a reasonably good intercooler as the air temps I have seen at the TB is lower than ambient even on RR.
3mm thick hygenic stainless is not that good a conductor of heat when compared to alluminium and even if it was then going by the intake temps a bit of heat transfer is doing next to nothing to effect the peformance.
If i was starting to get to the point where I worried about one or two degrees on intake temp and calculating the denisty of air due to the amount of heat transfer over a 14" long piece of pipe at different flow rates then I think it might be time to move on from cento's and onto engines where that could actually make a noticable difference
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3mm thick hygenic stainless is not that good a conductor of heat when compared to alluminium and even if it was then going by the intake temps a bit of heat transfer is doing next to nothing to effect the peformance.
If i was starting to get to the point where I worried about one or two degrees on intake temp and calculating the denisty of air due to the amount of heat transfer over a 14" long piece of pipe at different flow rates then I think it might be time to move on from cento's and onto engines where that could actually make a noticable difference
exactly what i said. stainless is a pretty poor conductor of heat... aluminium is a very good one... hence why its mainly used for heat sinks. car radiators. cylinder heads....
The 'cento engine bay is, lets face it, a hot place to be & small so really any pipe isn't going to be in a significantly cooler place once you've got an IC, oil cooler, radiator & exhaust manifold/turbo lined up along the front of the car. So which way to route the boost pipe?.. the shortest route possible, for 8vers this beeline probablly means straight over the top of the engine. But for my self & most 16vers it's up over the 'box because that's where the intake to the inlet manifold is.
As for material, something that isn't flexible but as heat resistant as possible so decent quality stainless steel is the order of the day & if you feel really inclined you can, as allanhelen said, just use heat reflective lagging if you're that worried. The real key to keeping boost temps down is sourcing an unrestricted supply of cool, dry air & utilisation an effective intercooler exposed to plenty of cool, wet(!) air.
As for material, something that isn't flexible but as heat resistant as possible so decent quality stainless steel is the order of the day & if you feel really inclined you can, as allanhelen said, just use heat reflective lagging if you're that worried. The real key to keeping boost temps down is sourcing an unrestricted supply of cool, dry air & utilisation an effective intercooler exposed to plenty of cool, wet(!) air.
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What you need is a nice shiney stainless bob with a 2" inlet
Looks good anyway
Looks good anyway
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to right!! I was going to have all the inlet pipe made from stainless while i had the exhaust done but ran out of time. As soon as i find some alloy im having a bob welded up and will get that all done.
guess stuff like this can wait. I need to get it all reliable first.
the ecu controlled fan works really well.
guess stuff like this can wait. I need to get it all reliable first.
the ecu controlled fan works really well.
the earlier (600/700cc) smart cars run a fan on the intercooler, might be a nice combo to swap in. when the fan kicks in, it also alters the igntion advance.
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Ta... ill look into the fan but the intercooler on the cento is a perfect fit and the smart one looks long and thin and may be to small.
I though of having a sprayer on the intercooler but then ill have a probblem of finding a place to fit an water tank.
upped to boost today to .6bar the engine sounds angry and is a bit scary
played with TB's to. i fitted a smaller one to see if it helped the cars rough idle (it never and i fixed it with loads of messing with maps)
what i did find is boost took longer to raise this could be seen in the datalogs but the main effect was off boost where the car was noticeably less responsive.
I though of having a sprayer on the intercooler but then ill have a probblem of finding a place to fit an water tank.
upped to boost today to .6bar the engine sounds angry and is a bit scary
played with TB's to. i fitted a smaller one to see if it helped the cars rough idle (it never and i fixed it with loads of messing with maps)
what i did find is boost took longer to raise this could be seen in the datalogs but the main effect was off boost where the car was noticeably less responsive.
battery to boot, tank where battery used to be. or fit it in the passenger side inner wing. or move the wiper res to the boot and use the current wiper res as a spray res
or fit it in the passenger side inner wing. or move the wiper res to the boot and use the current wiper res as a spray res
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I did think of just using the rear windscreen washer for it. they use normal washer pumps and the pipe goes right across the intercooler. i could just connect it up when needed
