Technical Spring compressor

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Technical Spring compressor

I was going to do Becky's rear beam last summer but other more important "stuff" intervened. Definitely going to do it when the better weather returns - at 75 I just can't take the cold like I used to! My plan is to disconnect the bottom shock mounts and let the axle hinge down, remove the springs and pressure wash it. chip and wire brush as much rust off as I can before treating it with Fertan: https://www.fertan.co.uk/?product=fertan-rust-converter and then undercoat and paint with chassis black. If all goes well I'll treat her to some new springs when I reconnect the shocks. Personally I prefer a good enamel type chassis black where there's liable to be impact damage from stones etc. Although good for other situations I find Hammerite tends to chip too easily on undercarriage so I use this: https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint/
Thanks for those links. Think I might just invest in those two products as these panda's are well worth the pampering.

Not sure at 75 I would be doing anything on a car apart from a oil and filter change. That's so easy with the Honda CR-V 2.2 diesel, as the oil filter is at the top of the engine and I use a suction oil extractor down the dipstick which makes the whole process easy. The Panda is a different story with its oil filter, but still easy 🐼
 
I must admit to a liking to the Japanese brands. I have a Celica GT4 205 JDM 1994 that has always been my most favourite car in the World.

I always wanted one of those, ocould never find one at the right price, and in the last few years the prices went up and up. I had a few ST185s, though I thought the ST205 had the superstrut suspension that needed near annual maintenance.

As for impact guns, I bought the DeWalt DCF899, it really is a beast for the price.
 
I cleaned up my 100HP springs as they were not too rusty. However they only just passed the MoT because they have shortened over time. I need to replace them.
 
Pretty much any proper spring compressor for this is fine.

you need to use a little common sense

its storing energy in one direction.. If you stand at 90 degrees to it, even in the unlikely event of a catastrophic failure its unlikely anything will fly at that direction, Same as you wouldn't look down the barrel of a loaded gun.

you have to put you hand in front. If there is plenty of space and it did fail there's a Good chance it would be fine. But if your hand is between the strut and a wall its going to hurt

I have never had one fail or slip off, I still put a strap around the outside to contain everything, just in case and would never stand or put my head at either end.
 
I always wanted one of those, ocould never find one at the right price, and in the last few years the prices went up and up. I had a few ST185s, though I thought the ST205 had the superstrut suspension that needed near annual maintenance.

As for impact guns, I bought the DeWalt DCF899, it really is a beast for the price.
I saw the GT4 205 way back in 1994 when I was working in Manchester. From that day on- I thought, one day I'll have one of those. I got mine about 8 years ago now.

I changed all the superstrut suspension and shocks with KYB and Teng lowering springs that makes her sit really well.

The DeWalt impact Wrench does look like a beast! I wanted to find something with a body not to big or small, so researched it for a while and called milwaukee to ask there advise. This one has great reviews and I like the idea of the 3 lights on the front to help you see the bolts.
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I always wanted one of those, ocould never find one at the right price, and in the last few years the prices went up and up. I had a few ST185s, though I thought the ST205 had the superstrut suspension that needed near annual maintenance.

As for impact guns, I bought the DeWalt DCF899, it really is a beast for the price.
I personally prefer a 600mm breaker bar which gives some warning when trouble (such as a seized thread) is coming.
 

Nice, there was a quality feel with the celica, and supra (my brother had a few of those)

I personally prefer a 600mm breaker bar which gives some warning when trouble (such as a seized thread) is coming.
I've found the slow aproach is much more likely to chew or round a nut or bolt. Whereas impact, hammer and spanner, or gun, it more likely to break the torque with no damage to the head or nut.
 
I personally prefer a 600mm breaker bar which gives some warning when trouble (such as a seized thread) is coming.

I've found the slow aproach is much more likely to chew or round a nut or bolt. Whereas impact, hammer and spanner, or gun, it more likely to break the torque with no damage to the head or nut.
There's room for both approaches, and both have their merits. Personally I like to try the steady, controlled one first, but if that is clearly not going to result in a clean release of the fastener, then I'm likely to resort to some sort of impact device before anything permanently deforms or breaks. This is a good time to make a cup of tea and consider whether application of heat or penetrating fluid might help (but not at the same time!). If it's clearly not going to come apart cleanly, also consider whether cutting/grinding/splitting the offending fastening would be less likely to risk collateral damage to other components.

If you're contemplating using a grinder, think about where the sparks might go. Apart from causing a fire, they can be hot enough to both ruin paintwork and melt glass.

Sometimes with rusted fastenings, using a socket of the 'wrong' size (possibly from a different thread group) will give you a better fit.

One thing that's always worth doing before using an impact tool is to think where the impact forces are going, and be very wary if they could result in point loads on bearing surfaces, as this is likely to ruin an otherwise sound bearing. In this respect, roller bearings are less likely to be damaged than ball ones.
 
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I agree easing up the tension is not useful. But used correctly a breaker bar is not "slow". Take up the tension and ping it loose. BUT if the threads subsequently pick up (as happens with Fiat's through bolt holes) you have a chance of freeing them off with back & forth movement.

The garage had to fit two helicoils when the clutch was done. The bolt ends were fouled with aluminium oxide which tore out the threads. I now regularly drip some ACF-50 onto all open threads in the hope that a good soaking will prevent the same happening again.
 
There's room for both approaches, and both have their merits. Personally I like to try the steady, controlled one first, but if that is clearly not going to result in a clean release of the fastener, then I'm likely to resort to some sort of impact device before anything permanently deforms or breaks. This is a good time to make a cup of tea and consider whether application of heat or penetrating fluid might help (but not at the same time!). If it's clearly not going to come apart cleanly, also consider whether cutting/grinding/splitting the offending fastening would be less likely to risk collateral damage to other components.

If you're contemplating using a grinder, think about where the sparks might go. Apart from causing a fire, they can be hot enough to both ruin paintwork and melt glass.

Sometimes with rusted fastenings, using a socket of the 'wrong' size (possibly from a different thread group) will give you a better fit.

One thing that's always worth doing before using an impact tool is to think where the impact forces are going, and be very wary if they could result in point loads on bearing surfaces, as this is likely to ruin an otherwise sound bearing. In this respect, roller bearings are less likely to be damaged than ball ones.
Some very good advice there- Thank you. I have a good Snap-On breaker bar somewhere in my tool box. One of the reasons I went for an impact Wrench was that my hands are not as good as they use to be, so thought this gun would help a lot.

Hopefully it'll arrive soon 🐼
 
Impact gun is only for difficult bolts, most are spanner or ratchet for me. I only use the breaker bar for good fitting sockets, like driveshaft or subframe bolts, on a 6 sided socket if possible.
 
Impact gun is only for difficult bolts, most are spanner or ratchet for me. I only use the breaker bar for good fitting sockets, like driveshaft or subframe bolts, on a 6 sided socket if possible.
Yes I agree, there's nothing like "feeling" when a bolt/stud is near to breaking point. However I really do like an impact gun for things like crank pulley bolts or driveshaft hub retaining bolts or anything which tends to be very tight and wants to turn thereby making it difficult to undo with a power bar. Single hex sockets, preferably impact grade, every time (if possible)
 
The breaker bar allows sensible force to be applied without using too much muscle. If it slips you wont smack your hands. Obviously, using it like a gorilla will sheer the bolts so some common sense is needed.
 
If fitting lowering springs I normally just do it in the garden and use and impact wrench to fire the shock off to remove the stock springs.

With a bit of weight on the top mount you can push everything down far enough to get the top boot back on without spring compressors. This only works with lowering springs of course.

It is a bit dangerous, but I've never found it that bad if you are aware of what is going to happen.
 
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I had a delivery today of my Bilstein B6 shocks. Which I'm very pleased with. I'm thinking of painting them before I put them on, simply to protect as much as possible. Have you any recommendations of what primer or paints I should use plz 🐼
 
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