Technical Spring compressor

[KungFooPanda]

Hi guys

I'm replacing all suspension set up on the 100hp with Bilstein B6 shocks and Vogtland springs as well as the drop links/Suspension arms top mounts.

I've never replaced a spring on a car and looking for some advise please. Now the old shocks and springs will be removed in one go- but will I need a spring compressor to to get the new springs on the shocks? I ask because the B6 dampers are the same size as the original, but the springs are Lowering ones about 40mm I think..

Any help or pictures of you doing the job will be much appreciated

Cheers

 

[dagdromer]

yes you need a set of spring compressors for that. If you can mount the springs without compressing them they are too lose and that will be a MOT failure. If you bought everything new you can do this task before starting on the actual work. Maybe then you can do this taks in your local garage and borrow their tools for it. And remember to get the alignment checked/corrected afterwards.

 

[DaveMcT]

I have just replaced my 100HP front struts, top mounts bump stops and track rod ends springs have just passed the MoT with a comment about tighteness with car jacked up. I cleaned up the old springs but will need to replace the. Surprised to find they had shortened so much.

I have spring compressors bought years ago with left and right hand threads for quicker operation. But these look solid enough.

Hilka Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor (12700055) for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hilka Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor (12700055) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[KungFooPanda]

yes you need a set of spring compressors for that. If you can mount the springs without compressing them they are too lose and that will be a MOT failure. If you bought everything new you can do this task before starting on the actual work. Maybe then you can do this taks in your local garage and borrow their tools for it. And remember to get the alignment checked/corrected afterwards.

Thanks for the advise mate. Looks like I'll have to invest in some good spring compressors I'm hoping to get this job done this week, weather dependant

 

[KungFooPanda]

I have just replaced my 100HP front struts, top mounts bump stops and track rod ends springs have just passed the MoT with a comment about tighteness with car jacked up. I cleaned up the old springs but will need to replace the. Surprised to find they had shortened so much.

I have spring compressors bought years ago with left and right hand threads for quicker operation. But these look solid enough.

Hilka Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor (12700055) for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Hilka Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor (12700055) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Hi Dave... Sounds like a good job on the 100hp was it a difficult job to change out the shocks. Those spring compression look good for the money to...

 

[koalar]

4410A12 FRONT SUSPENSION DAMPER (ONE), LH OR RH - FOR MCPHERSON STRUT SYSTEM - INCLUDES DISMANTLING/RE-BUILDING OF ASSEMBLY AT BENCH R R - Fiat - PANDA - eLearn - 4CarData

 

[KungFooPanda]

4410A12 FRONT SUSPENSION DAMPER (ONE), LH OR RH - FOR MCPHERSON STRUT SYSTEM - INCLUDES DISMANTLING/RE-BUILDING OF ASSEMBLY AT BENCH R R - Fiat - PANDA - eLearn - 4CarData

That's a fantastic link mate. A picture paints a thousand words

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I'll assume you know how to safely remove the strut unit from the car? - by which I mean don't undo the 2nd nut on the damper rod (the one that retains the top mount to the damper rod) until you have the spring clamps retaining the spring. In this case I think you are going to scrap the entire existing strut, spring and top mount so you won't be dismantling the old struts?

So, for you, the dangerous bit is going to be compressing the new spring until it's short enough to allow the new top mount to be fitted. By the way don't compress the spring any more than necessary - it's not good for the spring. If you ever are going to reuse an old spring then be especially careful if it's substantially corroded as this greatly increases the risk of it maybe snapping and the more you compress it the greater the likely hood of this happening. Personally I'd be replacing any spring which looked seriously rusted anyway.

Yes, you'll need a set of spring compressors and they're a very useful thing to have. If you're not going to use them very much - or maybe only think you'll use them this for job - then it's worth asking your local garage how much they'd take to fit them. (I doubt they will lend a tool like this unless you are very well known to them) Replacing broken road springs is such a common job now a days that pretty much any garage can do them with their eyes closed! They may well have a tool like this one: https://www.onbuy.com/gb/workshops-...I2ZBgggggD4mf5AXLTb7ewWQJQDavKhIaAkiCEALw_wcB Which is "super safe" to use and compresses the spring in just a minute or so. With all new parts and using power tools, I'd be very surprised if it would take a competent man/woman more than a half hour. Some workshops tend to charge not less than an hour's labour for this sort of thing whilst others charge "real time" so it's worth asking around if you decide to go down this route. Just make sure the spring and top mounts are aligned correctly before the top mount nut is tightened.

Another "left field" consideration might be to ask at your local motor factor. Mine have a stock of special tools which they lend/rent to local garages so if you are well known to them they may lend to you. Mine are very happy to allow me to borrow in this way and I've not had to pay a charge yet (although I've got so much of my own stuff I've only had a couple of things from them).

If you decide to buy your own compressing tools then the type Dave recommends above will do the job very nicely, there are many variations on the theme with some featuring retainers so the tool cannot be "flung off" the spring if something goes seriously wrong. Many many moons ago I made my own compressors:

I've stuck a rule alongside them for scale. I wouldn't want them any shorter than this or you'll not get them onto an uncompressed spring.

When actually using them you must position them exactly on opposite sides of the spring. Then tighten them a few turns, maybe 3 revs? on one then the same on the other. Then go back to the other and go maybe 3 turns again and then 3 on the other and so on until you've shortened it enough to fit. Of course as you tighten one clamp it's going to pull the spring over towards that side. Then as you tighten the other it'll pull it straight again. While you're doing this keep a very careful watch for the spring bending sideways, like a banana? as this will cause the compressor to slip. If it does look to be bending sideways like this then decompress the spring again - a little at a time on each side (the reverse of the tightening procedure) and reposition the clamps. It's a time wasting pain in the butt when you have to do this but don't take a chance on a spring which is not compressing evenly - Road springs are incredibly powerful bits of kit and If a compressor comes off when the spring is under tension it can do a great deal of damage to "squishy" human flesh and bones! I've seen people recommending using 3 or even 4 tools for "extra safety". I would advise against doing this because if you use 4 you'll find that one clamp looses contact with the spring altogether as you tighten the one next to it so it's pointless and if you use 3 then as you tighten one clamp it encourages the other 2 to slip due to the bending of the spring. So, my advice is to use 2 clamps, positioned exactly opposite each other and tighten them just a little at a time progressively.

Another factor worth considering is protecting the coating on the spring, which, if damaged, will allow corrosion to get a hold and maybe cause premature failure at a later date. Professional equipment will come with plastic inserts which stop the coating being marked (although they tend to wear out and get chucked away!) I really like the look of this set: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183122732775?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338785333&toolid=10029&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1WSchVfd6QGiLevUnxQuIjg19&customid=s:GS;gc:Cj0KCQiAjc2QBhDgARIsAMc3SqSm8MAHylhJAFeFvoDy4NdaDQm198QjotjPGjUu_wEn2yQkP-yjzvcaAvPdEALw_wcB Cheaper "DIY" type stuff rarely has refinements like this. When using my compressors I have a couple of strips of heavy duty webbing which I arrange so the spring is insulated from the metal of the compressor.

The first time I used it I was worried the webbing might encourage the compressors to slip but if anything it actually reduces this tendency and, of course the finish on the springs remains untouched.

I hope I haven't put you off with all the warnings about the clamps slipping and the possible ensuing "carnage". I've changed many springs with these home made tools and never had a single "moment" - just tighten the compressors a little at a time on each one and be very careful to watch for the spring bending sideways. DON'T TAKE CHANCES JUST TO SAVE TIME. A bit of Moly grease on the threads helps reduce the turning effort and prolongs the life of the tool.

EDIT: I would strongly recommend you replace the two bolts with their nuts which hold the bottom of the strut to the hub - They are "special" high tensile steel (not the more usual 8.8 stuff) so buy the right ones.

 

[KungFooPanda]

I'll assume you know how to safely remove the strut unit from the car? - by which I mean don't undo the 2nd nut on the damper rod (the one that retains the top mount to the damper rod) until you have the spring clamps retaining the spring. In this case I think you are going to scrap the entire existing strut, spring and top mount so you won't be dismantling the old struts?

So, for you, the dangerous bit is going to be compressing the new spring until it's short enough to allow the new top mount to be fitted. By the way don't compress the spring any more than necessary - it's not good for the spring. If you ever are going to reuse an old spring then be especially careful if it's substantially corroded as this greatly increases the risk of it maybe snapping and the more you compress it the greater the likely hood of this happening. Personally I'd be replacing any spring which looked seriously rusted anyway.

Yes, you'll need a set of spring compressors and they're a very useful thing to have. If you're not going to use them very much - or maybe only think you'll use them this for job - then it's worth asking your local garage how much they'd take to fit them. (I doubt they will lend a tool like this unless you are very well known to them) Replacing broken road springs is such a common job now a days that pretty much any garage can do them with their eyes closed! They may well have a tool like this one: https://www.onbuy.com/gb/workshops-...I2ZBgggggD4mf5AXLTb7ewWQJQDavKhIaAkiCEALw_wcB Which is "super safe" to use and compresses the spring in just a minute or so. With all new parts and using power tools, I'd be very surprised if it would take a competent man/woman more than a half hour. Some workshops tend to charge not less than an hour's labour for this sort of thing whilst others charge "real time" so it's worth asking around if you decide to go down this route. Just make sure the spring and top mounts are aligned correctly before the top mount nut is tightened.

Another "left field" consideration might be to ask at your local motor factor. Mine have a stock of special tools which they lend/rent to local garages so if you are well known to them they may lend to you. Mine are very happy to allow me to borrow in this way and I've not had to pay a charge yet (although I've got so much of my own stuff I've only had a couple of things from them).

If you decide to buy your own compressing tools then the type Dave recommends above will do the job very nicely, there are many variations on the theme with some featuring retainers so the tool cannot be "flung off" the spring if something goes seriously wrong. Many many moons ago I made my own compressors:
View attachment 402838
I've stuck a rule alongside them for scale. I wouldn't want them any shorter than this or you'll not get them onto an uncompressed spring.

When actually using them you must position them exactly on opposite sides of the spring. Then tighten them a few turns, maybe 3 revs? on one then the same on the other. Then go back to the other and go maybe 3 turns again and then 3 on the other and so on until you've shortened it enough to fit. Of course as you tighten one clamp it's going to pull the spring over towards that side. Then as you tighten the other it'll pull it straight again. While you're doing this keep a very careful watch for the spring bending sideways, like a banana? as this will cause the compressor to slip. If it does look to be bending sideways like this then decompress the spring again - a little at a time on each side (the reverse of the tightening procedure) and reposition the clamps. It's a time wasting pain in the butt when you have to do this but don't take a chance on a spring which is not compressing evenly - Road springs are incredibly powerful bits of kit and If a compressor comes off when the spring is under tension it can do a great deal of damage to "squishy" human flesh and bones! I've seen people recommending using 3 or even 4 tools for "extra safety". I would advise against doing this because if you use 4 you'll find that one clamp looses contact with the spring altogether as you tighten the one next to it so it's pointless and if you use 3 then as you tighten one clamp it encourages the other 2 to slip due to the bending of the spring. So, my advice is to use 2 clamps, positioned exactly opposite each other and tighten them just a little at a time progressively.

Another factor worth considering is protecting the coating on the spring, which, if damaged, will allow corrosion to get a hold and maybe cause premature failure at a later date. Professional equipment will come with plastic inserts which stop the coating being marked (although they tend to wear out and get chucked away!) I really like the look of this set: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183122732775?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338785333&toolid=10029&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1WSchVfd6QGiLevUnxQuIjg19&customid=s:GS;gc:Cj0KCQiAjc2QBhDgARIsAMc3SqSm8MAHylhJAFeFvoDy4NdaDQm198QjotjPGjUu_wEn2yQkP-yjzvcaAvPdEALw_wcB Cheaper "DIY" type stuff rarely has refinements like this. When using my compressors I have a couple of strips of heavy duty webbing which I arrange so the spring is insulated from the metal of the compressor.
View attachment 402837

View attachment 402836

The first time I used it I was worried the webbing might encourage the compressors to slip but if anything it actually reduces this tendency and, of course the finish on the springs remains untouched.

I hope I haven't put you off with all the warnings about the clamps slipping and the possible ensuing "carnage". I've changed many springs with these home made tools and never had a single "moment" - just tighten the compressors a little at a time on each one and be very careful to watch for the spring bending sideways. DON'T TAKE CHANCES JUST TO SAVE TIME. A bit of Moly grease on the threads helps reduce the turning effort and prolongs the life of the tool.

EDIT: I would strongly recommend you replace the two bolts with their nuts which hold the bottom of the strut to the hub - They are "special" high tensile steel (not the more usual 8.8 stuff) so buy the right ones.

What a fabulous write up Jock really very informative. I was looking at the big foot pedal control spring compressor to. That looks like a really good bit of kit. I see that there is a 3T version for £96 delivered (https://www.vevor.co.uk/strut-sprin...ntial-tool-6600-lbs-car-repair-p_010767493892) if you purchased via topcashback, there is a discount as well as using code VV4UK takes another 3 quid off.

 

[vexorg]

View attachment 402836

That's not a bad idea, I find the compressors mark the paint of the new springs due to the force involved.

The biggest issue I find with the spring compressors is that the end cup for the spring ususally gets in the way as you tighten it.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

What a fabulous write up Jock really very informative. I was looking at the big foot pedal control spring compressor to. That looks like a really good bit of kit. I see that there is a 3T version for £96 delivered (https://www.vevor.co.uk/strut-sprin...ntial-tool-6600-lbs-car-repair-p_010767493892) if you purchased via topcashback, there is a discount as well as using code VV4UK takes another 3 quid off. View attachment 402859

How much of this sort of stuff are you going to do though? You also need to think about whether you might use kit on something that has wishbone suspension. The floor mounted rigs like this do a great job on stuff like struts where the whole assembly can be removed from the vehicle but often on wishbone type suspension the spring needs to be compressed in place. You won't be able to use a floor mounted rig for that.

 

[KungFooPanda]

How much of this sort of stuff are you going to do though? You also need to think about whether you might use kit on something that has wishbone suspension. The floor mounted rigs like this do a great job on stuff like struts where the whole assembly can be removed from the vehicle but often on wishbone type suspension the spring needs to be compressed in place. You won't be able to use a floor mounted rig for that.

We have a Honda CR-V 2.2 diesel that will need some new shocks soon. Thought that if I were to buy something like this, that it would be up to the job for both cars. I could also purchase the other ones mentioned as they aren't expensive

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

We have a Honda CR-V 2.2 diesel that will need some new shocks soon. Thought that if I were to buy something like this, that it would be up to the job for both cars. I could also purchase the other ones mentioned as they aren't expensive

I don't know much about the CR-V but I think it has Macpherson struts on the front - not much that doesn't these days is there? I'm not so sure about the rear. Is it a twist beam or multilink? My Ibiza estate is 6 years old now so I'll probably give it another year or so but not sure what I might replace it with. One I've been looking at is the HR-V with the 1.5 direct injection petrol engine 2019/20/21 Not the hybrid. I believe that up to the end of '18 they were built in Mexico and have had a few issues. late 2018 into 19 production moved to Japan and they are much better built? We already have a Jazz in the extended family fleet and it's a well made reliable car which I like working on - Very"sensible" engineering in my opinion and it's the most reliable (and second oldest) car we have. Sometime this year I'm planning on trying to get a test drive in one to see if I like it.

 

[KungFooPanda]

I don't know much about the CR-V but I think it has Macpherson struts on the front - not much that doesn't these days is there? I'm not so sure about the rear. Is it a twist beam or multilink? My Ibiza estate is 6 years old now so I'll probably give it another year or so but not sure what I might replace it with. One I've been looking at is the HR-V with the 1.5 direct injection petrol engine 2019/20/21 Not the hybrid. I believe that up to the end of '18 they were built in Mexico and have had a few issues. late 2018 into 19 production moved to Japan and they are much better built? We already have a Jazz in the extended family fleet and it's a well made reliable car which I like working on - Very"sensible" engineering in my opinion and it's the most reliable (and second oldest) car we have. Sometime this year I'm planning on trying to get a test drive in one to see if I like it.

I think it has Mac struts on the front. As to the rear beam, I've no idea tbh. I've never had to change the shocks. I must admit to a liking to the Japanese brands. I have a Celica GT4 205 JDM 1994 that has always been my most favourite car in the World.

It's proving very difficult to get hold of the Bilstein B6 Front suspension at a good price! But I have managed to ordered a pair now. The rears are a mare to find. I've ordered one that's been delivered today and I'm looking for another (19-235646) now. On lots of sites they say they have them in stock! But when you call- they aren't.

Delivery today has been good so far with my springs arriving and my new purchase of a impact Wrench. Looking forward to getting started on this now

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I think it has Mac struts on the front. As to the rear beam, I've no idea tbh. I've never had to change the shocks. I must admit to a liking to the Japanese brands. I have a Celica GT4 205 JDM 1994 that has always been my most favourite car in the World.

It's proving very difficult to get hold of the Bilstein B6 Front suspension at a good price! But I have managed to ordered a pair now. The rears are a mare to find. I've ordered one that's been delivered today and I'm looking for another (19-235646) now. On lots of sites they say they have them in stock! But when you call- they aren't.

Delivery today has been good so far with my springs arriving and my new purchase of a impact Wrench. Looking forward to getting started on this now

"Proper" Japanese vehicles have a reputation for being reliable and, in my limited experience, they deserve it. We have the one Mk1 jazz in the family just now and three of our immediate neighbours have them too. Two have the CVT transmission which I do not like driving - even though I worked for a DAF dealer early on in my career. I very nearly bought a 2016 Civic 1.8 I-VTEC back in 2016 but my "better half", who is a small person, couldn't achieve a satisfactory driving position, so we ended up with another SEAT (We've had many Skodas and SEATs over the years) With the Hondas all being old now - the youngest is a 2008 plate - I'm beginning to see caliper problems on them all but stuff like wheel bearings etc seem to be all OK so far. Water leaks at the rear of the roof seams have been a problem too and our family jazz broke a front spring last year. They have a reputation for doing in the gearbox primary shaft bearing - just like our wee FIRE engine gearboxes do - but neither of the manual ones I am involved with have problems with that yet. Amazingly not one of them shows even a sniff of oil leaking from engine or gearbox seals!

Ooowh, an impact wrench. One of my favorite tools! Very handy indeed for persuading the top nut on the front struts to relinquish it's hold on the damper rod! Can I ask what you bought and what do you do for compressed air?

 

[KungFooPanda]

"Proper" Japanese vehicles have a reputation for being reliable and, in my limited experience, they deserve it. We have the one Mk1 jazz in the family just now and three of our immediate neighbours have them too. Two have the CVT transmission which I do not like driving - even though I worked for a DAF dealer early on in my career. I very nearly bought a 2016 Civic 1.8 I-VTEC back in 2016 but my "better half", who is a small person, couldn't achieve a satisfactory driving position, so we ended up with another SEAT (We've had many Skodas and SEATs over the years) With the Hondas all being old now - the youngest is a 2008 plate - I'm beginning to see caliper problems on them all but stuff like wheel bearings etc seem to be all OK so far. Water leaks at the rear of the roof seams have been a problem too and our family jazz broke a front spring last year. They have a reputation for doing in the gearbox primary shaft bearing - just like our wee FIRE engine gearboxes do - but neither of the manual ones I am involved with have problems with that yet. Amazingly not one of them shows even a sniff of oil leaking from engine or gearbox seals!

Ooowh, an impact wrench. One of my favorite tools! Very handy indeed for persuading the top nut on the front struts to relinquish it's hold on the damper rod! Can I ask what you bought and what do you do for compressed air?

"Proper" Japanese vehicles have a reputation for being reliable and, in my limited experience, they deserve it. We have the one Mk1 jazz in the family just now and three of our immediate neighbours have them too. Two have the CVT transmission which I do not like driving - even though I worked for a DAF dealer early on in my career. I very nearly bought a 2016 Civic 1.8 I-VTEC back in 2016 but my "better half", who is a small person, couldn't achieve a satisfactory driving position, so we ended up with another SEAT (We've had many Skodas and SEATs over the years) With the Hondas all being old now - the youngest is a 2008 plate - I'm beginning to see caliper problems on them all but stuff like wheel bearings etc seem to be all OK so far. Water leaks at the rear of the roof seams have been a problem too and our family jazz broke a front spring last year. They have a reputation for doing in the gearbox primary shaft bearing - just like our wee FIRE engine gearboxes do - but neither of the manual ones I am involved with have problems with that yet. Amazingly not one of them shows even a sniff of oil leaking from engine or gearbox seals!

Ooowh, an impact wrench. One of my favorite tools! Very handy indeed for persuading the top nut on the front struts to relinquish it's hold on the damper rod! Can I ask what you bought and what do you do for compressed air?

I've had many VAG group cars over the 22 years when I was a driving instructor. The little Polo TDI did over 300k of learner drivers and still was going strong when I sold it. Always serviced with full synthetic (50700 spec) oil every 5000 miles with MANN filters.

I had a Toyota Yaris hybrid (2017 year) that had a CVT box that I hated! So much so that I changed it for a new Kia Nero hybrid with a 6 speed double clutch ( Similar to the DSG Audi/VW) which is a far better car in every way! Which I'm surprised to say.

I've never had a impact Wrench- so thought I'd do some research and buy a good one. This is the one that's coming in a few days

 

[KungFooPanda]

This is the cheapest price I could find it as other suppliers wanted £350 for it. Also got a rubber protector boot to go on it.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

This is the cheapest price I could find it as other suppliers wanted £350 for it. Also got a rubber protector boot to go on it. View attachment 402871

We've had largely good experiences with the VAG stuff - always either SEAT or Skoda brands. The only one that gave us any real problems was my boy's 1.6 CR Fabia Scout - a "pretty but tough" looking vehicle. Not as gutsy as the 1.9 PD Fabia it replaced either. It ran well for about the first 18 months and then it was just one thing after another. The EGR was horrible to get at too so I handed it over to our local VAG indy (people I know) who informed us the cat was shot too. We welded up the cat and did an EGR delete (not illegal at that time) he ran it for some time after that eventually part exchanging it for a new KIA RIO which is now coming up on 5 years old and just runs and runs and runs (with appropriate servicing of course) Best "modern" car I ever had was my old Cordoba estate 1.9 VE (the engine before the PD) which I ran for more than 15 years!

Ah, so you've gone with electric. That Milwaukee certainly looks like the "real deal" and with a nice large capacity battery too. I've grown up with air tools and am lucky enough to have a nice big compressor. For years I lived with a very average Clarke air impact wrench in my home workshop: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cat...tvi1zNc4YVBwkVL3y44aAn--EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds It does fine on all but the tightest of wheel nuts but can't cope with things like hub nuts or crankshaft pulley bolts etc. Then, about 3 years ago or thereabouts (I loose track of time so easily these days) I treated myself to a "proper" one: https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/pow...aNaLJgkauJW36CcnQZ1Y1Hb_1JYEKCzgaAo8LEALw_wcB It can "do" just under 1,000 ft lbs on max at 90psi. I run it on a 1/2 inch main supply with a 3/8 hose supplying the gun and large bore "Euro" connectors I run it through a regulator at 90 psi normally but can feed it the full 125 psi I run my compressor at if I really need to. Who knows what the torque is when running on the unregulated supply? - which I hardly ever need to do and don't like to either as I'm sure it's not very good for it. Nice to feel it's available if needed though - I've nick named it "Hooligan" because that's what it is! Here's a picture I took of the two of them just after I bought the CP and was changing the Clarke over to a euro coupling at the same time I fitted the CP with its. I run in line oilers on them both.



The CP also has a "soft tighten" feature which allows nuts to be "snugged up" rather than fully tightened for when you're using a torque wrench to tighten wheel nuts properly. The idea is that you spin them on with the wrench and then use a torque wrench to "click" them fully tight. If you look here:



you can see the reverser on the back of the gun with the full torque settings for clockwise and anticlockwise (its set at anticlockwise in this pic) with the "soft touch" setting (big and little "blob") between them. It's all a bit academic though because over the years I've learned you use "rattle guns" to tighten things at your peril! Very very useful for slackening but I only ever hand tighten!

Bet you just can't wait to get that new wrench working on something! Good luck with the project.

 

[KungFooPanda]

Cheers Jock that CP is a beast with this amount of torque. Hopefully, when I do the job I'll take some pictures and post hem up. I'm going to be doing up the rear beam at the same time.

Was thinking of a good wire brush and a rust converter. Then red oxide paint and hamerite with a coat of wax oil. Not going to take the beam off to get it shot blasted! As I haven't got the inclinations or time

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Cheers Jock that CP is a beast with this amount of torque. Hopefully, when I do the job I'll take some pictures and post hem up. I'm going to be doing up the rear beam at the same time.

Was thinking of a good wire brush and a rust converter. Then red oxide paint and hamerite with a coat of wax oil. Not going to take the beam off to get it shot blasted! As I haven't got the inclinations or time

I was going to do Becky's rear beam last summer but other more important "stuff" intervened. Definitely going to do it when the better weather returns - at 75 I just can't take the cold like I used to! My plan is to disconnect the bottom shock mounts and let the axle hinge down, remove the springs and pressure wash it. chip and wire brush as much rust off as I can before treating it with Fertan: https://www.fertan.co.uk/?product=fertan-rust-converter and then undercoat and paint with chassis black. If all goes well I'll treat her to some new springs when I reconnect the shocks. Personally I prefer a good enamel type chassis black where there's liable to be impact damage from stones etc. Although good for other situations I find Hammerite tends to chip too easily on undercarriage so I use this: https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint/