endrop - for all your online needs

Technical Rusted rear wheel drum won't move

Currently reading:
Technical Rusted rear wheel drum won't move

Hi, thanks for the reply. I meant the cylinder burst and leaked brake fluid, rather than the piston physically popped out of place. Both shoes were on the cylinder, one off centre. Is that going to be the reason or is there something else I missed? Maybe I turned the brake adjuster too much?
 
Last edited:
AnthonyH said:
So I got the first pair of shoes on today but when pumping it to finish off - the cylinder popped...

It looked like one of the shoes was sat in the middle of the cylinder metal press point but the other shoe was right at the bottom of the metal press point. I presume that's what made it pop? Are there any other possible causes for this?
Click to expand...

If you got the drum on ok, then the shoes couldn't be too far "off centre" 😉.

"blowing a seal" only down to wear and tear really


Or.. has the actual metal body fractured?
 
varesecrazy said:
If you got the drum on ok, then the shoes couldn't be too far "off centre" 😉.

"blowing a seal" only down to wear and tear really


Or.. has the actual metal body fractured?
Click to expand...
The metal body hasn't fractured and it does look like the original one. So its 15 years old, quite old enough to want to go to cylinder heaven anyways! :)
 
The mechanism went on correctly. I checked carefully at the time.

However re-reading the post above I can see there was a belief I'd put the drum back on before giving it a final pump on the pedal, but I hadn't. So it's possible the shoes were more off centre than they liked. Or one piston in the cylinder was more pressed in than the other before I began pumping.

It could just be a failed cylinder... Because I'm thinking the scraping coming from the otherwise good brake on the other side is caused by the cylinder...

At least it only rained on me a little bit yesterday :)
 
Last edited:
AnthonyH said:
However re-reading the post above I can see there was a belief I'd put the drum back on before giving it a final pump on the pedal, but I hadn't. So it's possible the shoes were more off centre than they liked. Or one piston in the cylinder was more pressed in than the other before I began pumping.
Click to expand...
Looks like it just moved under pedal pressure until it popped out. 🤔

They don't move far.. As I said above 3 to 5 mm in service

Probably only @10mm. Until it becomes at its limit of support and "pops out"

The Drum obviously limits travel 😉
 
AnthonyH said:
However re-reading the post above I can see there was a belief I'd put the drum back on before giving it a final pump on the pedal, but I hadn't. So it's possible the shoes were more off centre than they liked. Or one piston in the cylinder was more pressed in than the other before I began pumping.

It could just be a failed cylinder... Because I'm thinking the scraping coming from the otherwise good brake on the other side is caused by the cylinder...

At least it only rained on me a little bit yesterday :)
Click to expand...
My thoughts were more along the line of whilst fitting the shoes, the piston on one side came out a little to far as @varesecrazy mentioned and with old cylinders being less forgiving, that is most likely, in fairness you wouldn't be the first person for that to happen to , including me and I can honestly say I have fitted thousands in the motor trade since 1969.
If the piston hadn't come right out it is likely the seal failed due to a unusued rusty part of the old cylinder bore catching the rubber.
Brake cylinders do fail even in regular use and that is why when servicing I would always flick back the dust cover on the cylinder and see if any seepage was starting, to give an early warning of failing brake part.:)
 
The problem I had was that I didn't know how far to wind the brake adjuster, so I left the drum off so I could watch if it fall down as I tapped the brake, and I tightened it bit by bit until it didn't fall down.

I know now I have to wind it 3 or 4 threads and put the drum back on! They say you learn from your mistakes, so hopefully there isn't much left to learn about drum brakes now.

I bought this GP at auction in a poor state as a project to repair, so I don't mind stuffing up really, well today I don't mind anyway, yesterday maybe I was a bit annoyed! lol.
 
The brake cleaner arrived today, a surprisingly big 750ml can for £5.59.

I'll be sure to leave the brake pedal well alone until the drum is back on lol. I'd like to get this car on the road sometime this year lol
 
AnthonyH said:
So I got the first pair of shoes on today but when pumping it to finish off - the cylinder popped...

It looked like one of the shoes was sat in the middle of the cylinder metal press point but the other shoe was right at the bottom of the metal press point. I presume that's what made it pop? Are there any other possible causes for this? Would it have made any difference if I'd pumped with the engine on?

This is the first set of shoes I've ever tried to replace and it seems like I've made every mistake possible. I still have the second shoe, and its scraping to find, after I've done this one.
Click to expand...
We all started somewhere once. Its called learning, ..............the hard way.
 
AnthonyH said:
I'm enjoying the GP project. I repaired the big bumper crack today, I'm impressed with that.
Click to expand...
Its always good to see someone learning, as so many people couldnt and worse dont understand how things work. This leaves them vulnerable to being fleeced by the unscrupulous people we all encounter, Once you have teh first job sorted it gets easier. The point about guides is worth making as there are a few around on here and U tube. I NEVER trust these unless I know the person doing them knows what they are about, and always wait until I have two that aggree before following. I was watching some one demonstrating how to change a trailer hub earlier, and it was not a great example to follow.
 
The Panda Nut said:
Its always good to see someone learning, as so many people couldnt and worse dont understand how things work. This leaves them vulnerable to being fleeced by the unscrupulous people we all encounter, Once you have teh first job sorted it gets easier. The point about guides is worth making as there are a few around on here and U tube. I NEVER trust these unless I know the person doing them knows what they are about, and always wait until I have two that aggree before following. I was watching some one demonstrating how to change a trailer hub earlier, and it was not a great example to follow.
Click to expand...
That's a good point. I've been watching auto doc. There videos are functionally complete but devoid of commentary. I think I need to watch elsewhere also. Because what they don't say is "avoid doing this". So I've missed big blunders.
 
Last edited:
varesecrazy said:
Haynes Manual

Used to be fantastic..
Got a change of look @1999/2000
Now lost a lot of useful in depth information

Worth hunting out a £5 used copy for the basics though

My 2 puntos only feature briefly..
Rare engine options..

The FIRE petrol should be OK 🙂
Click to expand...
The old Haynes manuals went into much more detail than the later ones, I still have a few.
By the way I have fixed the water leak, just not done the wall papering.;)
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1058.JPG
    DSCF1058.JPG
    460.5 KB · Views: 37
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Technical Car Won't Start
Replies
6
Views
485
koalar
koalar
JohnyCash
Technical Fiat grande punto 2009 won't start!
2 3
Replies
43
Views
1K
Bartoosh
B
A
  • Question
Technical Steering wheel controls
Replies
2
Views
229
varesecrazy
V
M
Technical Creaking from front wheel area.
Replies
1
Views
105
bugsymike
B
M
General Is it rust? - boot lid / tail gate
Replies
2
Views
124
varesecrazy
V
Back
Top