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Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

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Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

beebe101 said:
i just dint expect people to pay attention because its just been one dead end after another, ill throw my right angle bore scope adapter and take some pictures but with the leakdown test i dont think a valves bent or it would have had an insane amount of blowby. it seems like every test is leading me back to a bad multi air.
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I am beginning to agree with you. These things are fine tolerance and with all you ahve done it is beginning to suggest that it must be the fault. Poor operation maybe all that is needed to stop it firing. There are some other stories on the net of problems and non starting. I can only think there is somewhere a blown seal or damage actuator at the bottom of this. Hugely frustrating, I really feel for you.
 
If the inlet manifold was off can you access the individual ports and using a vacuum gauge see if you get any readings as it is cranked over.
Also if brick was off and you were sure the inlet valves were shut then a vacuum pump test against those ports should show a good seal.
Even a vacuum cleaner hose sealed against the ports should show if sealing, much the same as if you put your hand over the hose pipe.
 
Is this like the brick and if so does it have hydraulic tappets as one of my questions was if they were OK.
To me it does look like hydraulic tappets. If accessible it may be possible to check them for damage, like inability to hold oil to actuate and adjust. Just another of my guesses?
 

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https://www.schaeffler.com/remoteme...loads_11/Schaeffler_Kolloquium_2014_12_en.pdf

if anybody is interested... I still believe that a faulty multiair should throw codes in most cases, maybe not always, since the current curves are compared and matched and if it doesn't match because the actuator needs more or less travel time than it should - and it's beyond tolerance levels - a code will be generated and the engine light will get triggered. However, the multiair can't verify or know if an intake valve is leaky - not by the actuator mechanism, that is -as long as it moves normaly.
 
I've been meaning to reply but life's been very chaotic lately, I pulled everything and found my timing was a little bit off I think it was because of a weird aftermarket style Tensioner. I ordered a bunch of replacement parts so I can completely redo the timing. Hopefully I'll have it all together this weekend I also found out that they discontinued everything to do with this engine this year so most parts aren't available at the dealer.
 
beebe101 said:
yea it's wild considering i can still get parts for my 90's rx7 brand new from mazda
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That's strange, back in around 1976 I worked for a Mazda Dealership as foreman and rebuilt a couple of the RX3s and RX4s in the days when they ran four barrel carbs and twin distributors with points doing trailing and leading ignition. all long before the RX7s etc. The RWD 323 had just come out.:)
However at that time all the Rotary engine parts had been sent back to Holland so we had a delay due to that.
 
So I redid all my timing on my fiat I turned it over 8 times by hand and everything lined up but when I cranked it over with the key it still sounded like no compression and backfired out the intake, then I put the tools back in and with my crank locked out the cam was about 1mm off, I'm also having problems with this new tensioner I get it right but then when I tighten my camshaft nut the tensioner takes up all the slack idk I'm gonna keep messing with it and tey to figure it out
 
beebe101 said:
So I redid all my timing on my fiat I turned it over 8 times by hand and everything lined up but when I cranked it over with the key it still sounded like no compression and backfired out the intake, then I put the tools back in and with my crank locked out the cam was about 1mm off, I'm also having problems with this new tensioner I get it right but then when I tighten my camshaft nut the tensioner takes up all the slack idk I'm gonna keep messing with it and tey to figure it out
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Can you mark all the pulleys etc. to see if anything slips?
 
Doesn't make sense. No way the multiair actuators would get current to have the intake valves stay open whilst at the same time a spark is fired. Even if the mechanical timing was off. The wrong timing might cause a spark with the exhaust valves still open, as the timing for the exhaust valves is mechanical. But for the intake valves to stay open because of the multiair the actuators would need to receive current at the exact moment of the spark.

Did you check for bent intake valves? If they're bent they might not slide back to the fully closed position, so they stay permanently open.
 
Zardo said:
Doesn't make sense. No way the multiair actuators would get current to have the intake valves stay open whilst at the same time a spark is fired. Even if the mechanical timing was off. The wrong timing might cause a spark with the exhaust valves still open, as the timing for the exhaust valves is mechanical. But for the intake valves to stay open because of the multiair the actuators would need to receive current at the exact moment of the spark.

Did you check for bent intake valves? If they're bent they might not slide back to the fully closed position, so they stay permanently open.
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Yea confident that it's not multi air after the video I still gotto test everything. I did a leak down test and all 4 cylinders were moderate leak down but nothing like 80% or 90%
 
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