Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

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Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

I think the OP and you are both jumping
to conclusions.

Now let's assume for a minute that both of you are right and the multiair is "bad", whatever that means.

So one hypothesis is it can't pressurize all of the four high-pressure chambers and/or the actuators don't engage and let that (insufficient) pressure provide the hydraulic link which pushes down on the admission valves.

So basically your saying the admission valves don't open at all.

This is normal if the multiair is lacking oil and hasn't been primed.

But it's not normal otherwise.

However, without removing anything, there's an easy way to test this hypothesis.

Just put a condom over the exhaust and crank the engine. If it aspirates, the condom will blow up. If the engine does not aspirate any air because the admission valves never open, it won't.
I am not jumping to any conclusion. This is what every test is pointing to. If it was not a problem with the MultiAir brick, it would have never been bled dry. The ECU would have disabled the solenoids but not the oil going to the brick, so after clearing that up it should have started or at least had compression. Also, if my intake valves were opening, I would get some kind of compression, not just zero psi. I will go ahead and send high pressure through the oil while it is cranking, but putting a condom on the exhaust is just wild.
 
I think the same. Plus you have to consider how the problem appeared, because you know exactly what that moment was. It was that high revving. That plus all that's shown after does point to a problem inside MultiAir, it just cannot hold pressure anymore.
putting a condom on the exhaust is just wild.
I think that was the purpose of condoms being invented, to allow you to be wild... 😁🤣
 
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