Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

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Technical really stubborn multi air bleed or failed multi air?

Yea I'm definitely going to take the manifolds off it's just a bit involved I feel like my might have a tiny bend in them, also that leak down tester was weird it was like hook it up to an air compressor until the leak down gauge reads 0 then hook it up to a cylinder. I would have much rather just had 2 pressure gauges and a regulator so I could see more accurately.
I have used several different petrol and diesel leak testers, but the most simple to use I just made up with a length of air line hose to a spark plug adaptor, so just once cylinder locked up at TDC I just applied 150psi with a good seal to the plug hole and it showed all I needed without a fancy set of gauges etc. and cost me nothing.:)
I didn't need percentages of loss, it was just good enough to know there was a loss for example past the valves that shouldn't be there.;)
 
Yea I'm definitely going to take the manifolds off it's just a bit involved I feel like my might have a tiny bend in them, also that leak down tester was weird it was like hook it up to an air compressor until the leak down gauge reads 0 then hook it up to a cylinder. I would have much rather just had 2 pressure gauges and a regulator so I could see more accurately.
Re the removing of the inlet manifold there was a bit in one of those earlier videos that mentioned a special tool or something as some had "bodged" by cutting a piece of a mounting bracket to the point that the dealers then refused to work on it with out a new manifold, so it may be worth reading up about it or going in very careful.
In all honesty I have never done one, but it did seem relevant.
 
Re the removing of the inlet manifold there was a bit in one of those earlier videos that mentioned a special tool or something as some had "bodged" by cutting a piece of a mounting bracket to the point that the dealers then refused to work on it with out a new manifold, so it may be worth reading up about it or going in very careful.
In all honesty I have never done one, but it did seem relevant.
Yea I saw that I have abarth where that part is a removable metal bracket unsted of a plastic arm that part of the manifold
 
I have used several different petrol and diesel leak testers, but the most simple to use I just made up with a length of air line hose to a spark plug adaptor, so just once cylinder locked up at TDC I just applied 150psi with a good seal to the plug hole and it showed all I needed without a fancy set of gauges etc. and cost me nothing.:)
I didn't need percentages of loss, it was just good enough to know there was a loss for example past the valves that shouldn't be there.;)
Yea that was like the first one I did just my compressor straight to the cylinder, it gave me a general idea
 
so i pulled off the head and all 8 intake valves were stuck open but there was witness marks on the exhaust side of the pistons from valve contact, so itd need new pistons at minimum. im just gonna part it out because i dont have the room nor want to pull an engine on it.
 
so i pulled off the head and all 8 intake valves were stuck open but there was witness marks on the exhaust side of the pistons from valve contact, so itd need new pistons at minimum. im just gonna part it out because i dont have the room nor want to pull an engine on it.
Not being "big headed", but basically what I mentioned at #2.;)
Unless serious damage to pistons you may get away with new valves as petrol engines generally cause less damage than diesels when valves meet.
However I can full understand your thoughts on it.:(
 
Would floating valves hitting the pistons create a cam position error, so that becomes a tell-tale sign in the context of high revs and a mis-shift?

I read somewhere the intake valves can take up to 8000 RPM. If there a witness marks on the exhaust side, that would mean all 16 valves were floating? It's a 16 V Abarth 500, right?
 
Did you examine the multiair for some valve plungers stuck in the open position (like protruding outwards and hard to push back in)? Are they all higly mobile and fall easily into the closed position by their own weight when turning the multiair upside-down (or at least after giving them a tiny push)?
Check before turning upside down. I believe there are specific warings to not do this.
 
Check before turning upside down. I believe there are specific warings to not do this.
What's the point, except for getting some oil on your trousers, maybe. They come brand-new without oil inside, and at least my new multiair did not fall apart when turning it upside-down and in all possible directions before fitting, so I could take some pictures.

As for the old one, simply lifting it of the engine straight-up caused a part being left behind which hid itself behind a valve spring.

I'm not suggesting doing this outdoors where stuff might fall into high grass or some nearby river, but in a controlled environnement. Anyway, nothing should fall of if the brick is ok. As additionnal precaution, you could always put a blanket on the rest of the engine bay (with a cut-out for the engine head) so stuff falling of can be easily found...
 
the one thing was weird is all the valves made contact but only the intake valves bent, theres a concerning amount of damage to the pistons, mostly a sharp lip but it's not worth it to me to fix it i dont got the time or desire to do everything
 
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