Technical Petrol additives, do they help?

[RedPeril]

My 2009 Grande passed its last emissions test but, I dread the day when it doesn't. It's done about 70,000 miles now.

Do petrol additives that claim to reduce wear work? Do you use one? What do you use?

Any thoughts, ideas or experience?

Thanks.

 

[porta]

Some oil additives were certainly shown to work, but I wouldn’t be tempted to stick them in now, as many modern engines are very oil specific…
Petrol additives are usually to keep lines, injectors etc clean, I use them once a quarter on my cars, and sometimes more regularly on the farm vehicles…I suppose that helping the systems remain clean would help in longevity by keeping them running optimally…however
If they’re claiming to replace certain additives that, for instance lead replacement on 4 stroke, then it’s doubtful.
There seems to be increasing evidence that the alcohol content is not good for engines not designed for it, think Fiat in South America where they can run on pure ethanol, then there are certain parts of engines which were modified, both to run that fuel and, not burn away the engine.
Some of the claims are a bit like shampoo adverts…’oh my hair is so much better with caffeine/coal/aloe/beer/jahoba/honey’ the fact is that there is so little of the ‘stuff’ in it, it ain’t doing anything and, you’re washing it in and washing it out again

 

[portland_bill]

As said above, a good petrol additive will help keep injectors clean, but has no other valuable purpose. Any product that claims more benefits is BS, adn should be avoided.
Redex, Wynns, STP, are good brands to keep injectors clean.

 

[HughJarsse]

As said above, a good petrol additive will help keep injectors clean, but has no other valuable purpose. Any product that claims more benefits is BS, adn should be avoided.
Redex, Wynns, STP, are good brands to keep injectors clean.

Garage I use, tends to recommend 'Forte' additives, and tends to use them most of the time, a bit more expensive but seems to be well supported by most garages too.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I'm in agreement with most of what porta is saying above. Engine - and transmission - oils are now almost engine and transmission specific and you need to be very careful indeed if you're deviating from the manufacturer's specified "brew".

Fuel additives is a much more grey area though. I'm sure some do work, especially the system cleaners and those made by big name manufacturers - Forte, Wynns, Millers, Cataclean and others. and are well worth a try if your emissions are MOT borderline. Many years ago, when they deleted Sulphur from diesel fuel, I started using Wynns Eco Diesel because it claimed to include an anti friction additive to combat the lack of sulphur (which was a good lubricant for stuff like injector needles and pump elements) Later I got a slight missfire (1.9 tdi VE engine Cordoba) when it was around 80, maybe 90 thousand miles so removed them and got my local independent diesel specialist to dismantle them and check them out. He reported back that the "pop off" pressures were slightly down - old "DPA" type system - but didn't think the springs needed replaced. Also No 3 needle was very slightly tight so might not be "behaving" on small throttle openings (which was exactly what was happening) He gave the needles a quick lap in, reset the blow off pressures and gave me a free set of copper sealing washers and charged me £25! - that was about 15 years ago - she went on running like a dream until turbo problems and the rust got her in the end. Was it the Wynns lubricant? who knows. Now, with the Ibiza running one of these small stressed, direct injection petrol engines I worry about inlet carbon fouling and wear in the injection system which operates at extreme pressure compared to the old VE and PD engines. After a lot of research, I've run it on this stuff since new: https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/product/archoil-ar6900-p-max-advanced-petrol-synthesis/ and, so far, it's running very well. They've very recently introduced an "improved" product: https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/product/oilsyn-petrol-power-dna-500ml/ which I'll be switching to once the current container of the 6900-p-max is used up. She's going through 30,000 miles now and so far I've noticed no change in performance or fuel consumption. Who knows if the stuff is doing any good? Probably only going to find out if I take the inlet manifold off and take a look down the inlet tracts which is not to be undertaken unless needed due to there being a coolant stabilized intercooler on the inlet manifold. One aspect I really like though is that this is a product which is added to every tank of fuel which I think is likely to be more effective than a "one shot" product. But I like that they claim it reduces the propensity for an engine to Pink (pre ignition) - bearing in mind that turbo direct injection engines are prone to low speed pre ignition (LSPI) - and protects against the effects of ethanol blended fuels.

 

[varesecrazy]

My 2009 Grande passed its last emissions test but, I dread the day when it doesn't. It's done about 70,000 miles now.

Do petrol additives that claim to reduce wear work? Do you use one? What do you use?

Any thoughts, ideas or experience?

Thanks.

With an emissions test.. there are several things 'watched for'.
And 3 things can effect each result

You may have..

Perished hoses..a minor exhaust problem

1 or more sensors not performing 100%

Contamination..of oil..fuel..or air


An additive will only get so far..


Do tell us more

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Marginal CAT. which is where something like Cataclean might get you another year.

 

[varesecrazy]

IF the engine is 'water and oil tight' you have a good chance..
Returning good mpg is another fine indicator

To be honest FIAT motors tend to be pretty good.. its not normally mechanical wear that is the issue.

 

[eeeno]

Have you changed the spark plugs?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Have you changed the spark plugs?

Yes. can actually make quite a difference, as can air filter etc, if they've not been done for some time, particularly, in the case of plugs, if they are the standard "copper core" type. One reason why it's a good idea to schedule the annual service just before, or at the same time as, the MOT

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

My 2009 Grande passed its last emissions test but, I dread the day when it doesn't. It's done about 70,000 miles now.

Do petrol additives that claim to reduce wear work? Do you use one? What do you use?

Any thoughts, ideas or experience?

Thanks.

Looking back at the original post, I don't think there's anything actually wrong here? I read this as RedPeril asking us how to best prolong the life of his/her Punto? If so then regular servicing with good quality products and regular checks on oil, coolant and brake fluid levels, tyre pressures etc, etc will go a long way to maximizing it's life span. Keep a close eye on coolant level as it doesn't take much of a leak to drop the level enough to end up with head gasket problems. If your's has a FIRE engine then the metal water pipe on the front of the block can be difficult to see when it's leaking.

2009 with 70,000 miles under the wheels - has it had a timing belt done yet? If not then don't take chances just fit a complete kit - belt, tensioner and water pump. Compared to the benefits of regular maintenance with good quality parts, using additives will contribute very little.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

My 2009 Grande passed its last emissions test but, I dread the day when it doesn't. It's done about 70,000 miles now.

Do petrol additives that claim to reduce wear work? Do you use one? What do you use?

Any thoughts, ideas or experience?

Thanks.

Looking back at the original post, I don't think there's anything actually wrong here? I read this as RedPeril asking us how to best prolong the life of his/her Punto? If so then regular servicing with good quality products and regular checks on oil, coolant and brake fluid levels, tyre pressures etc, etc will go a long way to maximizing it's life span. Keep a close eye on coolant level as it doesn't take much of a leak to drop the level enough to end up with head gasket problems. If your's has a FIRE engine then the metal water pipe on the front of the block can be difficult to see when it's leaking.

2009 with 70,000 miles under the wheels - has it had a timing belt done yet? If not then don't take chances just fit a complete kit - belt, tensioner and water pump. Compared to the benefits of regular maintenance with good quality parts, using additives will contribute very little. I also like to renew gearbox lube at around 50,000 miles.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Hmm, that was weird. I added the bit about the gearbox lube as an edit but ended up with two posts? Something I did I'm sure, but don't know what!

 

[RedPeril]

Many thanks for all of the replies ...the verdict seems to be to prioritise regular servicing with quality products and probably leave off the petrol additives. Regular tyre pressure and fluid checks are important, Yes, no problems at present so it's more looking after the car for the future.

i guess plugs have not been changed in some time and I will check garage invoices to see when the last time that the timing belt was changed.

Just on engine oil, the owner's manual spec is Selenia K.P.E. s.a.e. 5W-40 ACEA C3. What's most important, obviously the spec but what about the brand? Are some brands "better" or can I go by price?

Thanks again.

 

[porta]

Looking back at the original post, I don't think there's anything actually wrong here? I read this as RedPeril asking us how to best prolong the life of his/her Punto? If so then regular servicing with good quality products and regular checks on oil, coolant and brake fluid levels, tyre pressures etc, etc will go a long way to maximizing it's life span. Keep a close eye on coolant level as it doesn't take much of a leak to drop the level enough to end up with head gasket problems. If your's has a FIRE engine then the metal water pipe on the front of the block can be difficult to see when it's leaking.

2009 with 70,000 miles under the wheels - has it had a timing belt done yet? If not then don't take chances just fit a complete kit - belt, tensioner and water pump. Compared to the benefits of regular maintenance with good quality parts, using additives will contribute very little.

Looking back at the original post, I don't think there's anything actually wrong here? I read this as RedPeril asking us how to best prolong the life of his/her Punto? If so then regular servicing with good quality products and regular checks on oil, coolant and brake fluid levels, tyre pressures etc, etc will go a long way to maximizing it's life span. Keep a close eye on coolant level as it doesn't take much of a leak to drop the level enough to end up with head gasket problems. If your's has a FIRE engine then the metal water pipe on the front of the block can be difficult to see when it's leaking.

2009 with 70,000 miles under the wheels - has it had a timing belt done yet? If not then don't take chances just fit a complete kit - belt, tensioner and water pump. Compared to the benefits of regular maintenance with good quality parts, using additives will contribute very little. I also like to renew gearbox lube at around 50,000 miles.

Many thanks for all of the replies ...the verdict seems to be to prioritise regular servicing with quality products and probably leave off the petrol additives. Regular tyre pressure and fluid checks are important, Yes, no problems at present so it's more looking after the car for the future.

i guess plugs have not been changed in some time and I will check garage invoices to see when the last time that the timing belt was changed.

Just on engine oil, the owner's manual spec is Selenia K.P.E. s.a.e. 5W-40 ACEA C3. What's most important, obviously the spec but what about the brand? Are some brands "better" or can I go by price?

Thanks again.

Some would argue to stick to ascribed
I use Miller Oils, wehn I can get it, but a quality oil to the same spec should suffice.
I think the majority of us put an additive in, but only to keep lines, filters, injectors etc clean…don’t think any of us subscribe to the other claims some additives state

 

[portland_bill]

The FIRE engine is a simple thing, any oil showing the ACEA C3 spec should be fine.
For a filter, go with teh better brands, such as Bosch, or Mann.

 

[porta]

The FIRE engine is a simple thing, any oil showing the ACEA C3 spec should be fine.
For a filter, go with teh better brands, such as Bosch, or Mann.

I had a bosch filter rust through in less than a year around the crimp, that and their tool customer care, is one of the reasons I don’t trust them anymore

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I went through a phase of buying the manufacturer's branded own oil filter in the mistaken belief that I was buying something better than any other. For other filters etc I've always just bought whatever the factor was selling. The penny then dropped that the manufacturer's don't actually make their own filters and ever since I've just gone with whatever my local trade factor is selling, as long as it's a brand I know, (Mahle, Mann, Bosch, Crosland, Fram, etc, etc) and never had a problem. My local Factor now stocks NAPA stuff, which is a very big brand in the US. I'll probably end up with one of theirs at some time. I don't like buying this sort of stuff on line from an unknown supplier (although I'd buy from a trusted source like S4p or AutoVaux etc).

My one exception is my lubricants. I buy only genuine packs of the manufacturer's branded lube for transmissions. I'm a bit more open with engine oils but, if it's one of these small turbo'd jobs - like the Ibiza - will only buy a product actually specified for that particular engine. I've been running Fuchs oils in the "Family Fleet" for quite a number of years without any problems. Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro C3 5E-30 which meets all the VW specs for my engine and Fuchs Titan GT1 5W-40 (now replaced by Titan GT1 Flex 3 5W-40) in both our Panda and my boy's Punto. Again meeting all the Fiat specs. The FIRE engines seem very tolerant when it comes to engine oil and I think the'd run on almost any good quality 5W-40 or 5W-30 oil but I'd like to see the FIAT compliant spec on the tin for my own reassurance. By the way, it was announced a wee while ago that Fuchs are the supplier of Quantum oils to the VW group, replacing Castrol. VAG are very strict with stuff like this so if Fuchs are good enough for them then that'll do for me too! Twin air or Multiair? be very careful to get exactly the right stuff. Lots on the forum about problems related to using the "wrong" oil in these engines.

What about that timing belt? 2009 and 70,000 miles behind it? If still original it needs doing right now if not sooner. 5 years/70,000 miles whichever comes first seems to be the recommendation for the FIRE although there are few reports of failure compared with some other makes.

 

[porta]

I went through a phase of buying the manufacturer's branded own oil filter in the mistaken belief that I was buying something better than any other. For other filters etc I've always just bought whatever the factor was selling. The penny then dropped that the manufacturer's don't actually make their own filters and ever since I've just gone with whatever my local trade factor is selling, as long as it's a brand I know, (Mahle, Mann, Bosch, Crosland, Fram, etc, etc) and never had a problem. My local Factor now stocks NAPA stuff, which is a very big brand in the US. I'll probably end up with one of theirs at some time. I don't like buying this sort of stuff on line from an unknown supplier (although I'd buy from a trusted source like S4p or AutoVaux etc).

My one exception is my lubricants. I buy only genuine packs of the manufacturer's branded lube for transmissions. I'm a bit more open with engine oils but, if it's one of these small turbo'd jobs - like the Ibiza - will only buy a product actually specified for that particular engine. I've been running Fuchs oils in the "Family Fleet" for quite a number of years without any problems. Fuchs Titan GT1 Pro C3 5E-30 which meets all the VW specs for my engine and Fuchs Titan GT1 5W-40 (now replaced by Titan GT1 Flex 3 5W-40) in both our Panda and my boy's Punto. Again meeting all the Fiat specs. The FIRE engines seem very tolerant when it comes to engine oil and I think the'd run on almost any good quality 5W-40 or 5W-30 oil but I'd like to see the FIAT compliant spec on the tin for my own reassurance. By the way, it was announced a wee while ago that Fuchs are the supplier of Quantum oils to the VW group, replacing Castrol. VAG are very strict with stuff like this so if Fuchs are good enough for them then that'll do for me too! Twin air or Multiair? be very careful to get exactly the right stuff. Lots on the forum about problems related to using the "wrong" oil in these engines.

What about that timing belt? 2009 and 70,000 miles behind it? If still original it needs doing right now if not sooner. 5 years/70,000 miles whichever comes first seems to be the recommendation for the FIRE although there are few reports of failure compared with some other makes.

I remember wehn Fiat Lubrifrcant was the oil of most motor manufacturers under the Selinia brand…although the two Fiat dealerships I worked for, if the cars were out of warranty, used bulk Shell ‘superior’ unless specified otherwise, so basically the ‘fire’ engines, Uno and Croma turbo, Strada 130, Delta HF and Integrale, Thema and the V6 alfas. Transmission oils were always Fiat regardless

 

[chris3234]

The FIRE engine is a simple thing, any oil showing the ACEA C3 spec should be fine.
For a filter, go with teh better brands, such as Bosch, or Mann.

This a basic none mulitair fire engine any oil of the right weight and spec e.g c3 will be fine

Twin air and multi air are different beast's