Technical Front subframe bolt snapped in chassis

[DaveMcT]

I'm not mad keen on the looks of the new Panda though I do like the 4x4 and to be fair they are excellent cars and they get the job done. You get the dynamic benefits of the 500 with Panda practicality.

 

[AAB1992]

Changing sides eh?



Spill the beans, colour, spec?

I’m going to keep the old 2004 dynamic, but with 151k it thought it was time to upgrade to new one.

I just can’t part with the old one, I’ve personally had it 9 years and it’s gotten under my skin (aside from the hours and hours of my time keeping it in excellent condition and money!).

I decided what fiat do best is cheap basic cars, so it’s panda pop and in white just to keep the cost down. It’s on a PCP deal with a view to paying it off within 2 years. At least I’ll have a new car with warranty which should be hassle free for years to.

I think the 2004 will become just a summer run around, I want it to avoid winter at all cost.

On a different note! The subframe has gone back in and the bolts torqued up easily, so I had nothing to worry about!

 

[Goudrons]

We had a 2014 Panda 4x4 TA, Panda 2014 1.2 Lounge and a 2012 Panda 1.2 Pop all at the same time.

All but the Pop has gone, we just can't part with it.
It's a proper small Fiat, just the things you need without the fuss.

I must say though, the pre 2014 1.2 models (Euro 5) drive a lot better than those after.
The later Euro 6's feel a bit strangled and flat.

 

[AAB1992]

We had a 2014 Panda 4x4 TA, Panda 2014 1.2 Lounge and a 2012 Panda 1.2 Pop all at the same time.

All but the Pop has gone, we just can't part with it.
It's a proper small Fiat, just the things you need without the fuss.

I must say though, the pre 2014 1.2 models (Euro 5) drive a lot better than those after.
The later Euro 6's feel a bit strangled and flat.

I have driven 2 euro 6 models and found them to be okay. I’m well aware of the issues plaguing some, so hopefully this 2018 model will be okay. I particularly like the fact the pop models have a glovebox, proper handbrake and better seat fabrics.

Come to think about it, I’ve hardly seen any new pandas, the the British public don’t seem to appreciate their brilliance.

 

[Goudrons]

I actually like the flap handbrake, it sort of feels right in my hand.

Our Pop hasn't a glovebox lid and that tends to cause a few bits and pieces to get flung out every now and then.

I'm not sure if the latest have remote central locking, ours hasn't but it's no hardship, I like a simple key on my key ring with the rest on my keys rather than a big lump of plastic that I have to carry around separately and there's some kind of satisfaction/reassurance turning a key in a car door, the feel of the lock activating must register in my brain more than pressing a button on a fob.

 

[portland_bill]

As said, a proper thread tap is the best way to go. However, if such a thing is a bit expensive for the one job, you might like to try this.

If I read/remember this thread correctly, one bolt came out ok, but you've correctly bought two new ones. That's great.
Take the whole old bolt and with a hacksaw, cut a slot along the thread, maybe two, or more. This makes a sort-of tap.
Screw it into the hole, and once it gets to the damaged bit, no more than quarter turn at a time, and don't force it. If you're lucky, it will clean the thread adequately to use. Lubricate it to help, but don't force it. If it feels tight at any point, back it out and run away. You don't need to do the drill and dremel act again.
Just forcing the new bolt in may break it, and will render a torque wrench irrelevant.

 

[DaveMcT]

Good comment about re using an old bolt by slotting the threads (and cleaning the slots regularly) but TBH the taps are not silly money even for a one-off job. The biggest annoyance is having to wait for delivery.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Taper-Tap-M11-M12-M14-M16-M18-1-0-1-25-1-5-1-75-2-0-Hardened-Tungsten-Steel/261807416146?hash=item3cf4f02352:m:mhgareuAPqvHS-YRUASlXEA:rk:2f:1&frcectupt=true

I have an Aldi tap and die set that goes up to M12, cost 2/12p and comes in very handy for this sort of job.

 

[portland_bill]

Bolt quite likely to be a fine thread, so ordinary sets like the ALDI one won't do it.

 

[AAB1992]

Bolt quite likely to be a fine thread, so ordinary sets like the ALDI one won't do it.

The rear subframe bolts are m14x1.5 and the front bolts are M12x1.25

 

[Goudrons]

M12 is the bolts width. (12mm)
1.25 is the thread pitch.
As Portland states, it's a finer thread than the 1.5 of the rears.

You can get a M12 x 1.25 tap for £6 or £7 from ebay.

If you do end up needing a thread insert, you can get this size up to 36mm long, but you need to shop around for them.

 

[DaveMcT]

M12 is the bolts width. (12mm)
1.25 is the thread pitch.
As Portland states, it's a finer thread than the 1.5 of the rears.

You can get a M12 x 1.25 tap for £6 or £7 from ebay.

If you do end up needing a thread insert, you can get this size up to 36mm long, but you need to shop around for them.

A thread insert will need, what amounts to, a 13mm tap so might as well take it out to 14mm and use a bigger standard bolt. The captive nut will be plenty big enough.

 

[Goudrons]

This will have the correct drill and tap.
http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/metric-fine-thread-repair-p-6899.html

Though you'll need a longer insert.
36mm in the biggest, though you might need to measure the length you need if 36mm it too long.
https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/v-coil-metric-thread-repair-inserts-3-0d-m12-x-1-614.html

 

[DaveMcT]

Helicoils going right through can often unscrew or worse screw in when the bolt is fitted. They are basically a wire coil spring that grips into the walls of the threaded hole. They need a permanent threadlock to make sure they don't move but it's not always enough. The TimeSert type is sleeve that's fitted in the same way but it's locked into place with a peg so it cant unscrew. The snag is cost TimeSert is 3x the price of HeliCoil. Personally, I think both are overkill for this situation.

A quick google search will pull up the respective differences in more detail.