Technical  Failed MOT

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Technical  Failed MOT

Righto.

So that just leaves the self adjuster problem now lol. Its too dark for that, so i'll have to try tomorrow, i can't see myself getting it sorted so it'll fail again, or else i won't take it. I have 2 new self adjusters, so worth a try anyway...:)
Personally I think you may have over adjusted the hand brake if it is starting to come on at one click so I would back it off a little and the lever in the drum should be against the stop, the go for a drive and see if it holds on a hill. Don't overthink it.:)
 
Righto.

So that just leaves the self adjuster problem now lol. Its too dark for that, so i'll have to try tomorrow, i can't see myself getting it sorted so it'll fail again, or else i won't take it. I have 2 new self adjusters, so worth a try anyway...:)

It appears to have failed the first time because you over tightened the cables using the nut in the car just before taking it for test.

IF cables no longer too tight it should pass
 
So i've done this, any better?

View attachment 480032

I'm still considering whether to use a metal cable tie, it will make it more obvious, but would last a lot longer.
Seek out better ties big industrial ratched ties are as strong as steel. I ike the idea of a properly constructed replacement bracket but its not required for the brakes to work effectively. I would be concerned to inspect the entire axle and make sure its all strycturally sound, but Im sure you have considered this.
 
Regarding the handbrake, this is the situation as things stand. The equalizer bar in the cabin is more or less level. The handbrake nut in the cabin was slackened off until both handbrake levers in the drums were against there stops.

I then put the drums and wheels back on. The handbrake lever could go up to a maximum of 7 clicks before going no more.

I then increased the number of clicks of the handbrake and recorded the resistance as i spun the wheels.

These are the results;

Screenshot 2026-01-18 201110.png



Is this normal? Should i just forget about this now? :)
 
You may find it improves with use as it squares up more, it only takes a little muck on one side to cause imbalance.
Also are you turning both wheels in the normal direction of rotation? (as though car was going forward)
Reason being brake shoes are designed to work more efficiently in that direction hence leading and trailing shoes are different.
In the old days where two wheel cylinders were used on front brakes for instance , both shoes were similar leading shoes, but where a single double acting cylinder is used, such as your rear brakes then two different design of brake shoes is used a leading and a trailing shoe.
Note this is probably not worth you thinking too much about as all you want is an MOT.:)
 
You may find it improves with use as it squares up more, it only takes a little muck on one side to cause imbalance.
Also are you turning both wheels in the normal direction of rotation? (as though car was going forward)
Reason being brake shoes are designed to work more efficiently in that direction hence leading and trailing shoes are different.
In the old days where two wheel cylinders were used on front brakes for instance , both shoes were similar leading shoes, but where a single double acting cylinder is used, such as your rear brakes then two different design of brake shoes is used a leading and a trailing shoe.
Note this is probably not worth you thinking too much about as all you want is an MOT.:)
You seem to be saying it'll possibly pass the MOT, and are somewhat on the fence, or am i misreading this?

(I was pushing both wheels forward)
 
According to fail sheet The handbrake efficiency was not cause of mot test fail first time
 
You seem to be saying it'll possibly pass the MOT, and are somewhat on the fence, or am i misreading this?
I am suggesting you use the the brakes firmly several times before driving in to the Test centre to allow brakes to square up and become more efficient. Hence why I suggested a good road test before completion.
Brakes improve with use.
 
What exactly does "Binding excessively" mean?
We have been over this before it means brake not releasing fully and so binding/making wheel hard too turn when brakes not applied. Will lead to over heated brake components and other dangerous issues
 
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Fail sheet states service brake binding excessively but that's because they couldn't see cause was over tightened cable. So while cause was handbrake cable grossly over adjusted, the failure item was listed as service brake.
Its now fixed as you state wheels spinning free when hand brake released.
 
Is this normal? Should i just forget about this now? :)

The huge lateral difference in braking power would likely result in a failed MOT in Switzerland. By memory, the handbrake must achieve a minimal absolute value of braking power of X (some value) on each side and not more than 20 or 30 % of lateral difference.
 
I took it out for a drive, found a big hill and tested the handbrake there. The car was slipping down the hill even on maximum handbrake leverage at first, so i gradually tightened the nut on the equalizer bar until it held the car. My "home click test" wasn't so realistic, i mean i can't slide down hills with the handbrake on :)

It can go for the MOT re-test tomorrow, i'll give it a once over and hope for the best. The test is at 4pm, so a late one.
 
The huge lateral difference in braking power would likely result in a failed MOT in Switzerland. By memory, the handbrake must achieve a minimal absolute value of braking power of X (some value) on each side and not more than 20 or 30 % of lateral difference.
I would like to fix it, i'm not sure how, but probably needs new drums or adjusters, GrandePuntoPL's graph may indicate what would fix it.

I think the difference in braking power was a lot bigger before changing the handbrake cables.
 
it was the offside which was excessively binding. Now it seems to be the kerb side.

Maybe with some more braking it will even out.
 
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