Technical  Failed MOT

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Technical  Failed MOT

I ran it for a while, it was at the age where they had a simple computer with a vacuum advance and no points etc. I was lucky to get a good s/h unit as they were unreliable. Still got a good price when sold.
Generally I would buy knowing they needed fixing mechanically, not rust though as I gave up on massive welding jobs years ago. Several of my Doblos in the past were in the £300 price range, runners but had some issue or other.
After retiring I got bored and still wanted to repair mechanical things so that is why some came along.
Until recently before driving issue after a fall I used to go to a mates and we would fix old Cyclemasters, Seagull outboards, 7 tonne Case digger hydraulics etc. followed up by a farm house breakfast, though now I have trouble swallowing certain foods so even that pleasure is gone.:(
Similar sort of thing with me Mike. I get great enjoyment fixing mechanical stuff but there's a lot of bargains (MOT failures) which have succumbed to tin worm and can be had for peanuts. I got deeply into doing this sort of thing for a while because sills, floors and box sections don't need any great panel beating skills. However some years ago I got fed up with red hot underseal dripping onto my chest and also began to worry about the high strength steels starting to be used in vehicles which a local body man told me require specialist welding techniques if they are not to become brittle due to crystalline changes in the metal as a result of using something like a "Hobby" MIG on them. That was when I started getting much more interested in my old horticultural machinery, that and because I can work on them in a nice warm workshop!
 
Similar sort of thing with me Mike. I get great enjoyment fixing mechanical stuff but there's a lot of bargains (MOT failures) which have succumbed to tin worm and can be had for peanuts. I got deeply into doing this sort of thing for a while because sills, floors and box sections don't need any great panel beating skills. However some years ago I got fed up with red hot underseal dripping onto my chest and also began to worry about the high strength steels starting to be used in vehicles which a local body man told me require specialist welding techniques if they are not to become brittle due to crystalline changes in the metal as a result of using something like a "Hobby" MIG on them. That was when I started getting much more interested in my old horticultural machinery, that and because I can work on them in a nice warm workshop!
I think it was Vauxhall that first went for that high tensile steel with all it's repair problems, even an original spot welder had to be replaced for later type. My friend is well into all that sort of stuff including big old flail mowers and he has a large three wheeled lorry with a chain driven engine on the front wheel. He does have a waste oil burner , but more recently small three phase hot air blowers. Along with all that was Villiers pedestrian rollers Perkins and Petter engines and other stuff so proper men's shed and yard, plus a 600 sloper Panther and a Bond Microcar, so all good fun. This is the digger.
By the way this isn't me in the horse and cart but I have driven through that archway many times and as a child recall when it was still a butchers shop there.See the Schwinn bike with Cyclemotor in back wheel. So don't only play with Fiats.;)
 

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There is no reason it should not pass retest as long as self adjusters are working.
Remember with both cables fitted and drums removed, only tighten in car adjuster until slack removed without moving stop on either shoe lever away from rest point on shoe, refit drums press foot brake many times to operate self adjusters, spin drums , pump pedal again many times.

Pull hand brake and fingers xed balance bar will not be skewed indicating both sides shoe to drum clearance even.

Leave trim off interior adjuster incase it needs a little turn to please tester.

Have you filed lip off drums so you can fit and remove more easily?

Clean up hub face too with wire brush for best practise
I know i have to do something with the brake adjusters, what i have no idea. Its very counter intuitive what is going on with different handbrake cable lenghts.

It is quite possible i've wasted my time fitting the new handbrake cable, and the one i'll have to get on tomorrow. Nothing new there lol. But i'm probably going to miss the MOT re-test.

I suppose i should see if i can buy some brake adjusters at short notice in anticipation of destroying a couple of them lol
 
I think it was Vauxhall that first went for that high tensile steel with all it's repair problems, even an original spot welder had to be replaced for later type. My friend is well into all that sort of stuff including big old flail mowers and he has a large three wheeled lorry with a chain driven engine on the front wheel. He does have a waste oil burner , but more recently small three phase hot air blowers. Along with all that was Villiers pedestrian rollers Perkins and Petter engines and other stuff so proper men's shed and yard, plus a 600 sloper Panther and a Bond Microcar, so all good fun. This is the digger.
By the way this isn't me in the horse and cart but I have driven through that archway many times and as a child recall when it was still a butchers shop there.See the Schwinn bike with Cyclemotor in back wheel. So don't only play withg Fiats.;)
I'm salivating over those bikes and the Bond. Always fancied a Barclay Bandit or maybe, with my interest in Imps, a Bond 875. The Reliant Kitten might be in the frame too? Trouble is I seem to be attracted to almost anything slightly unusual with an IC engine! I think the weirdest one I ever had and it wasn't a car, was a BSA Dandy.

Going to make my cocoa now and have an early night. - been in a lot of pain with my hip today and taken some ibuprofen and paracetamol. Pain just about gone but it's making me feel drowsy, so off to bed and read my book for a while.
 
I know i have to do something with the brake adjusters, what i have no idea. Its very counter intuitive what is going on with different handbrake cable lenghts.

It is quite possible i've wasted my time fitting the new handbrake cable, and the one i'll have to get on tomorrow. Nothing new there lol. But i'm probably going to miss the MOT re-test.

I suppose i should see if i can buy some brake adjusters at short notice in anticipation of destroying a couple of them lol

The different left right cable outer sheath lengths make no difference , the inner length minus the outer length should be the same for both left and right sides.

Leave the auto adjusters alone now as things have got a bit out of hand for you.

The only thing for you to adjust is the nut in the car........have told you how to do that a couple of times on this thread.
 
There is no reason it should not pass retest as long as self adjusters are working.
Remember with both cables fitted and drums removed, only tighten in car adjuster until slack removed without moving stop on either shoe lever away from rest point on shoe, refit drums press foot brake many times to operate self adjusters, spin drums , pump pedal again many times.

Pull hand brake and fingers xed balance bar will not be skewed indicating both sides shoe to drum clearance even.
So it seems i need to;

1) Fit the other handbrake cable
2) Take drums off
3) Remove the slack from the equalizer in the cabin
4) Make sure handbrake cable stop is still at the rest point
5) Refit drums
6) Pump the brake lots and lots, spin the drums

Failing that i muck around with the self adjusters then :D
 
So it seems i need to;

1) Fit the other handbrake cable
2) Take drums off
3) Remove the slack from the equalizer in the cabin
4) Make sure handbrake cable stop is still at the rest point
5) Refit drums
6) Pump the brake lots and lots, spin the drums

Failing that i muck around with the self adjusters then :D
I would add
4.5) Do set right the self adjusters
 
Is there any way of telling if self adjusters are too tight or too loose by looking at them?

For a Grande Punto can you use a brake adjuster on either side? I mean they aren't left or right handed are they?

And if they are the same part you don't have to flip them 180 degrees between left and right do you?

When i look at the adjusters they seem to both have around 5 threads visible in the middle.
 
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Correct ways to tell if they’re too tight or too loose
Drum rotation test (best method)
With the wheel and drum fitted, spin the wheel by hand.
Correct adjustment: slight, even drag, drum rotates freely.
Too tight: hard to turn, scraping noise.
Too loose: spins completely free, no contact
This is the gold standard test.
Other tests:
Shoe-to-drum clearance check (drum off)
With drum removed shoes should sit just slightly smaller than the drum.
Large visible gap = too loose
Shoes already touching drum = too tight.

Brake pedal feel
Low pedal that improves when pumping = too loose
High pedal with rear drag = too tight

Handbrake travel
Correct: 3–6 clicks
Too loose: 7+ clicks
Too tight: 1–2 clicks or dragging
 
Righto, i can remember from a wheel spin test i did a few days ago that the rear right wheel drags, and the rear left wheel spins too much (freely). So it appears i'd need to slacken the right, and tighten the left. The left adjuster is possibly faulty, when fitting the right adjuster i might have overtightened it.
 
The left adjuster is possibly faulty, but not necessarily. It can be fine, just...
You overtightened the right. The left never self-adjusted.

Right side adjusted too tight first. Right shoe is already close to the drum. It contacts early and takes most of the braking force. Hydraulic pressure rises quickly. Pedal travel is limited.
Result:
Left shoe doesn’t travel far enough
Left adjuster never actuates.
This is extremely common after uneven manual adjustment.
 


A subset of the Haynes videos are on youtube, this one might come in handy

The wizardry of self-adjusters:



I vaguely remember my one-time rear brake job on my defunct 1995 Fiat Bravo, I had a Haynes manual for it. Changing brake shoes and resetting the adjusters wasn't so difficult after all...
 
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I'm salivating over those bikes and the Bond. Always fancied a Barclay Bandit or maybe, with my interest in Imps, a Bond 875. The Reliant Kitten might be in the frame too? Trouble is I seem to be attracted to almost anything slightly unusual with an IC engine! I think the weirdest one I ever had and it wasn't a car, was a BSA Dandy.

Going to make my cocoa now and have an early night. - been in a lot of pain with my hip today and taken some ibuprofen and paracetamol. Pain just about gone but it's making me feel drowsy, so off to bed and read my book for a while.
I knew about the Berkeley cars but didn't know of the Bandit until I looked it up, a Ford Anglia 997cc engine and one with the Ford Classic 1340cc engine (still three main bearing but different crank and conrods, I did that to one of my Ford Anglias but short lived. :)) Dandy was a motor scooter/bike, I thought you were less keen on them?
 
Righto, i can remember from a wheel spin test i did a few days ago that the rear right wheel drags, and the rear left wheel spins too much (freely). So it appears i'd need to slacken the right, and tighten the left. The left adjuster is possibly faulty, when fitting the right adjuster i might have overtightened it.
Remember it may just be the old handbrake cables that were sticking and less the self adjusters.
So check operation first before getting to involved with the self adjusters.:)
 
Righto, i can remember from a wheel spin test i did a few days ago that the rear right wheel drags, and the rear left wheel spins too much (freely). So it appears i'd need to slacken the right, and tighten the left. The left adjuster is possibly faulty, when fitting


A subset of the Haynes videos are on youtube, this one might come in handy

The wizardry of self-adjusters:



I vaguely remember my one-time rear brake job on my defunct 1995 Fiat Bravo, I had a Haynes manual for it. Changing brake shoes and resetting the adjusters wasn't so difficult after all...

Very cool videos. The one on the operation of the brake adjuster has a simplicity that you rarely find on YouTube.
 
Remember it may just be the old handbrake cables that were sticking and less the self adjusters.
So check operation first before getting to involved with the self adjusters.:)
The previous mechanic has switched brake cables for certain. He put left on the rightside and vice versa, so i have to correct that first. But my feeling is that usually there is more than one fault in situations like this.
 
Righto, i can remember from a wheel spin test i did a few days ago that the rear right wheel drags, and the rear left wheel spins too much (freely). So it appears i'd need to slacken the right, and tighten the left. The left adjuster is possibly faulty, when fitting

Very cool videos. The one on the operation of the brake adjuster has a simplicity that you rarely find on YouTube.
Don't condemn the adjusters until you have checked brake operation with new and free moving handbrake cables, it may just be that.
 
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