Technical Failed MOT

[jackwhoo]

With good reason...

The right handbrake cable hasn't gone on yet, problems, but when i checked it didn't look like it was going to solve the problem, so i went to the left hand side and found this...

View attachment 479910


View attachment 479911

This is a fixed bracket on the rear axle that holds the left handbrake cable.

How do i fix this?

Despair

Take broken bit off cable and use a cable tie to hold it to remaining part of bracket on car

What isnt going to solve problem?

 

[AnthonyH]

Take broken bit off cable and use a cable tie to hold it to remaining part of bracket on car

Will that get it through the MOT?

What isnt going to solve problem?

Well i thought that the previous mechanic had put the shorter left handbrake cable on the right...but no...he put the longer right handbrake cable on the left. So now i have to change the left handbrake cable...

 

[jackwhoo]

Will that get it through the MOT?



Well i thought that the previous mechanic had put the shorter left handbrake cable on the right...but no...he put the longer right handbrake cable on the left. So now i have to change the left handbrake cable...

Yes that should be fine you may get an advisory note.

 

[AnthonyH]

Its not been the best job so far. The cable wouldn't fit in the hole in the cabin, so i had to get an angle grinder on it, the manufacturer should have shaved the extra bit off.

Then i found i'd left a little part/clip off the cable in the drum, so had to take the cable out and put the part back on.

Now i can't seem to get the path of the cable right.

 

[bugsymike]

It does seem like you need to take a step back and work out the best option rather than diving in first. No disrespect.

 

[AnthonyH]

Is this too low for a handbrake cable to sit?

 

[AnthonyH]

It does seem like you need to take a step back and work out the best option rather than diving in first. No disrespect.

I didn't check the cables thoroughly beforehand. Oh well, i'm changing both now lol

 

[bugsymike]

Is this too low for a handbrake cable to sit?

View attachment 479917

Should be OK , if it securely supported and working correctly, it appears above the line of the fuel tank so a reasonable clearance.
Brakes will be better with both cables replaced.
As they say "Spare no expense, give the cat another Goldfish"

 

[AnthonyH]

Because the right handbrake cable failed the MOT and had a homemade i assumed that was the problem cable. So i didn't look properly at the left handbrake cable. The heatshield being removed and replaced was just a red herring because the lefthand cable was the problem. i/e. it is for the right hand side.

Live and learn

 

[AnthonyH]

I had to look it up;

"Spare no expense, give the cat another goldfish" is
a humorous phrase meaning to go all out, showing extreme generosity or indulgence, often with a playful, over-the-top tone, implying the cat's (or recipient's) desires should be met lavishly, even if it's an absurd request like more goldfish. It's an idiom for extreme, often excessive, luxury or care.

LOL.

 

[jackwhoo]

Because the right handbrake cable failed the MOT and had a homemade i assumed that was the problem cable. So i didn't look properly at the left handbrake cable. The heatshield being removed and replaced was just a red herring because the lefthand cable was the problem. i/e. it is for the right hand side.

Live and learn

Failed mot due to excessively over tightened hand brake adjuster inside car
affecting right hand side way more than left for as yet unknown reasons. The cables being swapped side to side will not be the reason.

Changing both cables will help get solution.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Failed mot due to excessively over tightened hand brake adjuster
affecting right hand side way more than left for as yet unknown reasons. The cables being swapped side to side will not be the reason.

Changing both cables will help get solution.

Just remember that with both new cables fitted and still very slack - so the levers on the shoes are right against their stops with no tension in the cables - the self adjusters need to be wound up manually until the shoes are just lightly rubbing against the drums then stomp quite hard on the brake pedal several times to settle the shoes against the drums (the drums need to be on before you do this of course) It may be that the self adjusters can be taken up a few more clicks after doing this, remember what you're trying to do is end up with the shoes centred in relation to the drums with them just making contact, but not dragging, on the drums. - You have ground/filed the little lip off the drums haven't you? Only when that has been achieved should you now go to the cable adjuster and tighten the cables enough to just pull the levers on the shoes clear of their stops. I'm not talking about achieving a big gap here, they need to be just clear of the stops and no more - do this and the self adjusters will work well as long as they're not seized of course. On older cars we would usually say that about 3 clicks on the handbrake lever was what you were trying to end up with but this is out the window with self adjusting brakes. You may well end up with more clicks than this but if the cables are properly fitted and adjusted to just pull the levers at the wheel end clear of their stops then that's what you want.

 

[AnthonyH]

Just remember that with both new cables fitted and still very slack - so the levers on the shoes are right against their stops with no tension in the cables - the self adjusters need to be wound up manually until the shoes are just lightly rubbing against the drums then stomp quite hard on the brake pedal several times to settle the shoes against the drums (the drums need to be on before you do this of course) It may be that the self adjusters can be taken up a few more clicks after doing this, remember what you're trying to do is end up with the shoes centred in relation to the drums with them just making contact, but not dragging, on the drums. - You have ground/filed the little lip off the drums haven't you? Only when that has been achieved should you now go to the cable adjuster and tighten the cables enough to just pull the levers on the shoes clear of their stops. I'm not talking about achieving a big gap here, they need to be just clear of the stops and no more - do this and the self adjusters will work well as long as they're not seized of course. On older cars we would usually say that about 3 clicks on the handbrake lever was what you were trying to end up with but this is out the window with self adjusting brakes. You may well end up with more clicks than this but if the cables are properly fitted and adjusted to just pull the levers at the wheel end clear of their stops then that's what you want.

I have left the brake shoes and the rest of the mechanism in place while i changed the handbrake cable. I haven't touched the brake adjusters, I think they will be right, as i haven't done anything with them.

My main concerns are;

1) whether i've routed the cable properly. I'm assuming from BugsyMikes post above that the handbrake cables should be above the line of the petrol tank, is that correct?

2) Can someone confirm Jacks post, that cable tying a broken braket will be sufficient to get it passed the MOT? (See post #180)

 

[bugsymike]

I have left the brake shoes and the rest of the mechanism in place while i changed the handbrake cable. I haven't touched the brake adjusters, I think they will be right, as i haven't done anything with them.

My main concerns are;

1) whether i've routed the cable properly. I'm assuming from BugsyMikes post above that the handbrake cables should be above the line of the petrol tank, is that correct?

2) Can someone confirm Jacks post, that cable tying a broken braket will be sufficient to get it passed the MOT?

As with most MOT points it is largely down to the testers opinion, but in general terms if it is secure, with thick good quality plastic ties I see no problem. So no baler twine or knicker elastic.

 

[AnthonyH]

As with most MOT points it is largely down to the testers opinion, but in general terms if it is secure, with thick good quality plastic ties I see no problem. So no baler twine or knicker elastic.

I'll use a metal cable tie and hope for the best then!

I was all set for buying a spot welder, i don't currently have one.

 

[bugsymike]

I'll use a metal cable tie and hope for the best then!

Not to tight so it pinches, let it give a little.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I have left the brake shoes and the rest of the mechanism in place while i changed the handbrake cable. I haven't touched the brake adjusters, I think they will be right, as i haven't done anything with them.

My main concerns are;

1) whether i've routed the cable properly. I'm assuming from BugsyMikes post above that the handbrake cables should be above the line of the petrol tank, is that correct?

2) Can someone confirm Jacks post, that cable tying a broken braket will be sufficient to get it passed the MOT? (See post #180)

I think as long as the cable is secured so it doesn't constitute a snag hazard it'll be fine. I've used cable ties for stuff like this before and it's never been questioned.

 

[AnthonyH]

The right hand cable is on, i've not completely tightened up all of the brackets yet though. I will do the left hand brake cable tomorrow, then post pictures to see if the routing and cable tie have been done OK.

This MOT has been a lot of bother LOL.

 

[bugsymike]

The right hand cable is on, i've not completly tightened up all of the brackets yet though. I will do the left hand brake cable tomorrow, then post pictures to see if the routing and cable tie have been done OK.

This MOT has been a lot of bother LOL.

You haven't got a pass yet.

 

[AnthonyH]

You haven't got a pass yet.

I think its going to fail again, i'm putting a positive slant on it lol