You know... you could have just used the impact gun there.It worked, both nuts are offThanks!
Good thing you got it sorted!
Technical Failed MOT
- Thread starter AnthonyH
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Technical
Failed MOT
Good thing you got it sorted!
Most likely cable was way too tight on the lh side.
Also, @AnthonyH, did you release the hand brake before removing drum?
Re understanding the brake adjusters, first take photos of them both sides so you know to refit correctly. Also if you fit new I think you will find they are handed. Many years ago I bought a Citroen from a dodgy car salesman who was reluctant to let me roadtest before purchase due to dodgy brakes, I insisted and agreed brakes poor, thereby further negotiating a better price having satisfied myself nothing major, when I got it home and stripped down I found brand new brake shoes had been fitted etc. and the cause of the poor foot and handbrake was they had fitted the left hand adjuster on the right hand side so stopping them from working.
Note the ends of the self adjusters are different lengths , so check you fit correctly.
Incidentally if with handbrake cables backed off if both brake drums turn freely and assuming brake pedal travel was good, it may be possible to leave shoes assembled and using a screwdriver to activate the handbrake lever and jam it away from the shoe so that it is possible to release the end of the cable from the lever and then tap the outer from it's location in the back plate allowing the new handbrake cable to be threaded through the back plate and engage with the brake shoe lever then remove the screwdriver that is jamming it out, once you are happy it is located correctly then push the outer cable fully in to it's location in the back plate. Several screwdrivers and long nose pliers often come in handy.
I do this all assembled but I know some find it easier with hub removed, but why over complicate.
I think photo below is similar to yours, once you understand how they operate, make sure the threaded section will move freely. The idea is that as the shoe wears that operation of the foot or handbrake should move the brakes shoes out a little pulling on the small spring attached to the shoe and adjuster pulling it and allowing the adjuster ratchet to click up enough to adjust without binding. From your point of view I would suggest assembling and then sliding brake drum on and working foot and handbrake to allow the self adjusting side to do the job. Me personally having done many, I use a long nose pair of pliers to manually adjust testing now and again until happy the drum slides on correctly. The danger of this if not familar is over adjusting so drum jams or causing damage to self adjusters, so best stick with plan A.
Note the ends of the self adjusters are different lengths , so check you fit correctly.
Incidentally if with handbrake cables backed off if both brake drums turn freely and assuming brake pedal travel was good, it may be possible to leave shoes assembled and using a screwdriver to activate the handbrake lever and jam it away from the shoe so that it is possible to release the end of the cable from the lever and then tap the outer from it's location in the back plate allowing the new handbrake cable to be threaded through the back plate and engage with the brake shoe lever then remove the screwdriver that is jamming it out, once you are happy it is located correctly then push the outer cable fully in to it's location in the back plate. Several screwdrivers and long nose pliers often come in handy.
I do this all assembled but I know some find it easier with hub removed, but why over complicate.
I think photo below is similar to yours, once you understand how they operate, make sure the threaded section will move freely. The idea is that as the shoe wears that operation of the foot or handbrake should move the brakes shoes out a little pulling on the small spring attached to the shoe and adjuster pulling it and allowing the adjuster ratchet to click up enough to adjust without binding. From your point of view I would suggest assembling and then sliding brake drum on and working foot and handbrake to allow the self adjusting side to do the job. Me personally having done many, I use a long nose pair of pliers to manually adjust testing now and again until happy the drum slides on correctly. The danger of this if not familar is over adjusting so drum jams or causing damage to self adjusters, so best stick with plan A.
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Op stated cables loosend
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Tool is to hold brake pistons in cylinder when shoes removed
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The best way is to start with it at minimum length and on the first press of the pedal they will self-adapt just right. Install them both, then press the pedal.The danger of this if not familar is over adjusting so drum jams or causing damage to self adjusters, so best stick with plan A.
Only after that, do tension the hand brake cables at proper tension and they'll work fine.
Hi Mike,
Sorry to disagree but very often adjusters do not work at all if fitted at minimum length there is just too much free play and not enough resistance to the adjustment nut . The nut can just move back and forth .
Yes to having cables completely loose then manually turn adjustment nut so drum can just fitted only then use foot brake to operate self adjusters to set final adjustment . Only after that adjust cable to take up free play without moving shoe lever off its stop position.
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OP
OP
I'll have a look tomorrow, test and give everything a good clean. I have some brake cleaner and assume that can go anywhere in the drum?
When i opened the drums a lot of dust fell on the floor so there is quite a lot of muck to clean away.
Dont use brake cleaner on any rubber parts
OP
OP
I'm going to give this a try. I think i could have a lot of problems taking the brakes apart and putting them back together. The MOT fail was for handbrake so if i can leave everything together i will (Assuming after testing the parts and mechanism check out).
I think photo below is similar to yours, once you understand how they operate, make sure the threaded section will move freely. The idea is that as the shoe wears that operation of the foot or handbrake should move the brakes shoes out a little pulling on the small spring attached to the shoe and adjuster pulling it and allowing the adjuster ratchet to click up enough to adjust without binding. From your point of view I would suggest assembling and then sliding brake drum on and working foot and handbrake to allow the self adjusting side to do the job. Me personally having done many, I use a long nose pair of pliers to manually adjust testing now and again until happy the drum slides on correctly. The danger of this if not familar is over adjusting so drum jams or causing damage to self adjusters, so best stick with plan A.
I can't remember how many of these i've already broken..its a few lol
OP
OP
I've already had a read and downloaded the pages. I'm interested in the tool that could make life easier, drum brakes be the stuff of nightmares though so i'm going to try to leave them alone.
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Just take your time and a few photos, don't worry, there will always be some here to take the pi**, sorry I mean help you.
Put drum on side you not adjusting.
Press pedal slightly to slightly push pistons out then turn adjuster nut (push top of nut toward back plate to reduce clearance) this makes it much easier to turn adjuster nut and so less likely to damage anything. Do this until drum drags slightly when pushing over shoes.
Then do
Other side.
Then take drums off and adjust cables to take out slack without move shoe levers off stops
Press pedal slightly to slightly push pistons out then turn adjuster nut (push top of nut toward back plate to reduce clearance) this makes it much easier to turn adjuster nut and so less likely to damage anything. Do this until drum drags slightly when pushing over shoes.
Then do
Other side.
Then take drums off and adjust cables to take out slack without move shoe levers off stops
Easy for us to say, but I have seen many where the pedal is pushed and both pistons pop out leaking fluid everywhere.
No tool to make your job easier
Ok. So not at minimum length if that doesn't work but definitely is better to have them lower than they will settle. So, adapt yourself, the man fitting them, so in the end to be perfect fitted.
I did mine at minimum length and that worked great, but that is on brake system without ABS.
Thank you for pointing that out!
Yep totally , maybe I should repeatEasy for us to say, but I have seen many where the pedal is pushed and both pistons pop out leaking fluid everywhere.
SLIGHTLY
AND I MEAN SLIGHTLY
OP
OP
I've just bought the right brake cable, i bought the left too but with any luck that can go back.
I have to get two of the rubber grommets below squeezed into those C shaped cups i was getting airated about yesterday lol.
I have to get two of the rubber grommets below squeezed into those C shaped cups i was getting airated about yesterday lol.
OP
OP
I deffo did that around about the same time i killed the self adjusters. I've learned my lesson hopefully lol.Easy for us to say, but I have seen many where the pedal is pushed and both pistons pop out leaking fluid everywhere.
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