Technical  Failed MOT

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Technical  Failed MOT

Put drum on side you not adjusting.
Press pedal slightly to slightly push pistons out then turn adjuster nut (push top of nut toward back plate to reduce clearance) this makes it much easier to turn adjuster nut and so less likely to damage anything. Do this until drum drags slightly when pushing over shoes.
Then do
Other side.
Then take drums off and adjust cables to take out slack without move shoe levers off stops

Just read, trying to get my head around it.
 
Put drum on side you not adjusting.
Press pedal slightly to slightly push pistons out then turn adjuster nut (push top of nut toward back plate to reduce clearance) this makes it much easier to turn adjuster nut and so less likely to damage anything. Do this until drum drags slightly when pushing over shoes.
Then do
Other side.
Then take drums off and adjust cables to take out slack without move shoe levers off stops
I've now understood what you are saying but i'm reluctant to try, because i killed a cylinder like this a couple of years ago, then two more cylinders trying to replace that one.

At the same time i killed 2 or 3 adjusters.

I am a lot more skilled these days but still i've been badly scarred and i think i'm not going to do this. Thanks for the suggestion, i might reconsider, but for now it just makes me think things will go badly...:)
 
There's some info right here and here. Grab it before it goes away

Also, there's a tool available (see also here)

Since my car has disk brakes, I've got no idea how to use that tool ;-)

Anyway, since you're already "in there", why not fit new brake shoes

I'm going to start the process of removing the right handbrake cable tomorrow morning, i won't have time to finish it though.

The links are very handy. I've just read on the elearn website that there is a protective cover on the backplate that gives access to the handbrake cable which might allow me to disconnect the cable without removing the shoes. Bugsymike made this suggestion, I think its best i leave the shoes in place unless i have no choice. I don't want to be troubling trouble. I will give the brakes a careful clean/dry wipe and test both the brakes and handbrake are working properly before driving the car.

Screenshot 2026-01-14 233108.png
 
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The brake cable is off without any problems.

IMG_20260115_100138.jpg


You can see in the right hand the cable has split and rusted. The bracket there was very rusty but also movable.

IMG_20260115_104424.jpg


The ingress of water and rust in this spot has made it go out of shape.

IMG_20260115_104453.jpg


The splits aren't so good.

IMG_20260115_110214.jpg



IMG_20260115_110227.jpg


I lined up the new and old cables and the old one is short. I'm not sure how much difference 1 cm would make, but it can't be helping.

I've no more time today, but fingers crossed i can get the new one on tomorrow.
 
The mystery of what has gone on here is solved!

The old handbrake cable is genuine Fiat Grande Punto! But...

The previous mechanic bought the left hand cable and put it on the right hand side!

The heatshield on the left is longer than on the right and got in the way of a bracket, so the guy took it off and put a home made one on.

According to the manufacturer the left is also shorter than the right by 2 cm, i measured 1cm the first time around but when i tried again i found the difference is 2cm.

There are 5 splits on the cable, where it has rusted, but the cable does still move freely, so that was a red herring.

In other words, all i need to do is to fit the new right handbrake cable without misshap and i'm done and dusted.

Fingers crossed.
 
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The mystery of what has gone on here is solved!

The old handbrake cable is genuine Fiat Grande Punto! But...

The previous mechanic bought the left hand cable and put it on the right hand side!

The heatshield on the left is longer than on the right and got in the way of a bracket, so the guy took it off and put a home made one on.

According to the manufacturer the left is also shorter than the right by 2 cm, i measured 1cm the first time around but when i tried again i found the difference is 2cm.

There are 5 splits on the cable, where it has rusted, but the cable does still move freely, so that was a red herring.

In other words, all i need to do is to fit the new right handbrake cable without misshap and i'm done and dusted.

Fingers crossed.

Well maybe , dont get too excited just yet.
The length of inner cable minus the length of outer cable should be same both left and right cables so the balance bar can be perpendicular to hand brake lever when both brakes adjusting correctly.
 
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There's an element of fingers crossed here. It might be the correct cable to fit, but i make a mistake somewhere, to be human is to err!

I was expecting the rusty cracks to have made the cable stick, but they didn't make a difference.
They still can when under load after pulling on and that will reduce their braking effort too.
Off the car in a straight line they may well feel free to move easily, so new is best.:)
 
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They still can when under load after pulling on and that will treduce their braking effort too.
Off the car in a straight line they may well feel free to move easily, so new is best.:)
I've just tested this and the old cable is noticeable harder to move when rounded/curled. Especially in comparison to the new one. (y)
 
They still can when under load after pulling on and that will reduce their braking effort too.
Off the car in a straight line they may well feel free to move easily, so new is best.:)
I've just tested this and the old cable is noticeable harder to move when rounded/curled. Especially in comparison to the new one. (y)
Yes. Old cables which have corroded or are maybe just "dry" inside with degradation of nylon liners etc, can appear to be free and working well when not under load - ie when off the vehicle or disconnected at both ends on the vehicle - but bind up significantly and reduce the force applied to the levers in the drums when actually operating the brake shoes. Sometimes this can be dramatically improved spraying something like WD40 liberally around (don't get it on the friction linings though) but this is never a permanent solution. Just might get you past an MOT if the cables are just a bit "iffy" thus giving you time to fit new cables at your leisure.
 
Yes. Old cables which have corroded or are maybe just "dry" inside with degradation of nylon liners etc, can appear to be free and working well when not under load - ie when off the vehicle or disconnected at both ends on the vehicle - but bind up significantly and reduce the force applied to the levers in the drums when actually operating the brake shoes. Sometimes this can be dramatically improved spraying something like WD40 liberally around (don't get it on the friction linings though) but this is never a permanent solution. Just might get you past an MOT if the cables are just a bit "iffy" thus giving you time to fit new cables at your leisure.
The MOT re-test is on Monday, so i have 3 days left to get the new cable on. I imagine the other cable is in similar shape, but i daren't put it on in case there is a mishap and i don't make the deadline. Getting passed an MOT always feels like an ordeal :)
 
Getting passed an MOT always feels like an ordeal :)
It does feel strange. Waiting while they fiddle with your car. And you're expecting the conclusion...
But... always taking good care of the car and fixing things at their first signs of something wrong gets you through, easy.
 
The MOT re-test is on Monday, so i have 3 days left to get the new cable on. I imagine the other cable is in similar shape, but i daren't put it on in case there is a mishap and i don't make the deadline. Getting passed an MOT always feels like an ordeal :)
Sorry to be a bit of a pessimist but, if the other cable is in poor condition you may find that the handbrake balance figure is poor due to the new cable being able to apply more force to the lever whilst the old one is compromised by friction due to it's condition. The only way you'll really know is when they test it but you can try putting both back wheels up in the air, applying the handbrake until the wheel with the new cable is just able to be turned by hand and checking the one with the old cable. If you can turn the old one quite easily by hand then it's likely it'll fail I've found. Mind you I do tend to be a bit of a "glass half full" type of person. I find it avoids disappointment mostly.
 
It does feel strange. Waiting while they fiddle with your car. And you're expecting the conclusion...
But... always taking good care of the car and fixing things at their first signs of something wrong gets you through, easy.
Aye, called "preventive maintenance" isn't it. I'm a firm believer. Tends to save you money in the long run too.
 
It does feel strange. Waiting while they fiddle with your car. And you're expecting the conclusion...
But... always taking good care of the car and fixing things at their first signs of something wrong gets you through, easy.
Speaking as an ex MOT tester, you can see the stress of the owner building up as you start writing whilst under their vehicle.;)
 
Speaking as an ex MOT tester, you can see the stress of the owner building up as you start writing whilst under their vehicle.;)
With good reason...

The right handbrake cable hasn't gone on yet, problems, but when i checked it didn't look like it was going to solve the problem, so i went to the left hand side and found this...

IMG_20260116_111219.jpg



IMG_20260116_111212.jpg


This is a fixed bracket on the rear axle that holds the left handbrake cable.

How do i fix this?

Despair 🤕
 
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