First don't panic, the vast majority of power steering faults are normally simple and cheap fixes
especially if it starts failing mainly in your winter months
But unfortunately nobody can say change this or do that and it fix it. A lot of different faults will cause the same symptoms or the red light to come on.
These are from both my own experiences and what others have found, thanks everyone that's add to the knowledge base. But I could have easy missed things out. Or have made a mistake
First of the symptoms often tell more about the problem than reading the codes which can be confusing or inconclusive. A lot of advise is just to read the codes, this is what I always did and said until I found out that a low power situation can also throw a torque sensor error (two confirmed cases)
mainly fails only cold mornings, likely battery or earth
or
mainly fails in winter, likely battery or earth
or
on the way to work but not on the way back, likely battery or earth
mainly fails First few minutes of driving, likely battery or earth
mainly fails First few T junctions, likely battery or earth
mainly fails reversing into a parking space, especially as you press the brake, likely battery or earth
mainly fails when at low REVs, likely battery or earth
only fails when going over a bump, loose cable / earth
only fails when the roads are wet loose alternator belt none aircon model's
mainly fails as you slow down from a fast run loose alternator belt none aircon model's
squeal as you accelerate random red light loose alternator belt none aircon model's
totally random Red light steering fine or goes heavy, normally battery or earth
red light on or off steering feels funny in one direction. Faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
red light on or off random vibration of the steering wheel. faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
only fails on hard lock in one direction, faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
steering wheel turns on its own, faulty torque sensor, never seen on the Panda, but have on other delphi EPS
battery substation, this has fixed hundreds of cars, at least 4 cars for me.
its worth mechanically cleaning the battery connectors first, unknow how many this fixes as often just swaping the battery hides the true fix. Both the terminal posts and inside of the connectors need to free from oxides. You can't tell by looking at them. you need to remove a clean clean them mechanical, both inside of the connectors and the lead post. I use a green scouring pad
At least two people on this forum have had the battery tested okay by a garages fancy electronic tester, for the fault to be the battery. Often wasting weeks going round in circles. Also testing with a simple volt meter is a waste of time. I have had a battery with dead cells and measured well under 12V at rest but never failed on the steering.
If someone could come up with a reliable test, life would be so much easier. I have tried with several meters on faulty cars and none have shown any problems with the battery or alternator. Nine time out of ten you are just wasting time and effort.
Only if you have any early 1.1 with cassette play or a none original replacement radio will you need the code for the radio. Everything else (the vast majority) you can disconnect at will as the code is remembered
If you place the battery on charge overnight and it improves is highly likely its on the way out. If its over 5 year its also quite likely
I have two cars. By far the easiest way for me is to swap the batteries over. A very High percentage of problems is nothing more than the battery this is what I always try fist unless the symptoms say otherwise. Having a spare battery is a big help, as you dont want to needless buy a new battery, but I know of no reliable test
I then move onto the quick and free solutions
not sure what to call this but its fixed at least 4 cars permanently, one mine(lock to lock). Park up preferably grass or gravel, kinder to the tyres but not essential, raise the revs to around 2K and quickly move the steering from lock to lock 4 or five times. Also you can also try toggling between city mode and normal driving it in each for a few minutes, this is also known to have fixed a car permanently in the past.
Power steering motor earth, I know of two car this has fixed. You can't tell by looking, unbolt it and clean with a green scouring pad or similar. The earth for the steering motor is bolted directly on top of the battery earth post. I would like to point out the earth on top of the gearbox has nothing to do with the power steering. Its often one of the first things people suggest.
If the car turns over (cranks) fine it will be fine.
torque sensor reseat, rare but I have had this fix one car for me, unplug and spray with contact cleaner and plug back in
I know nothing about this but someone had success by removing the motor and turning it through 180 degrees
recalibration with software, as far as I know this has fixed one, you can use multiecuscan, delphi, WOW and possibly more
one person has spotted a faulty alternator via a cigarette lighter volt meter.
before you check the alternator its best to inspect belt is tight, (I have had one fail due to a loose belt, I suspect there should be more.) not cracked or missing sections
moving on to the alternator itself, as far as I know this has fixed one, this is how I test mine
Listen for noises, squeal, rumble or grinding
the bearing can be checked with some rubber Hose works like a stethoscope. Although I find it easier to just slip the belt off and see if the noise goes
Let the battery rest for a few hours after a run then connect a volt meter on DC volts leads on the battery positive and negative terminals It should read 12.5-12.65 volts.
Start the engine should be between 13.5-14.5 volts. Mine is 14.1V. If its low try wiggling the wires if it jumps up suspect a loose connection
turning on the main beam, rear heated windows and blowers on max, voltage should remain above 13 volts, rev the engine it shouldn't go above 15V
we are now running out of simple solution
if you now read the error code and it says power. I have missed something out. sorry possibly the earth block bolted to the footwell but have never heard of one failing
if you have torque sensor symptoms and only a torque sensor error your only option is either change the steering column or torque sensor
torque sensor replace, this had fix quite a few in the past, less so now, we have learnt more since the early days, so make sure that it has been cleaned(contact cleaner) and reseat first otherwise it might not be the fault, but just fixed by swapping out the old dirty connector for a new part with a clean connector
I would like to add. From my experience that it can be a pain to fix. But stick with it. I have done at least a dozen not just Fiats, Not a single one yet has required a major repair in the end. In fact the only part I have ever replaced is the battery. The rest have just been reseat, clean, recalibrate or tighten belt. The odds have to be in favour of a cheap and easy repair.
especially if it starts failing mainly in your winter months
But unfortunately nobody can say change this or do that and it fix it. A lot of different faults will cause the same symptoms or the red light to come on.
These are from both my own experiences and what others have found, thanks everyone that's add to the knowledge base. But I could have easy missed things out. Or have made a mistake
First of the symptoms often tell more about the problem than reading the codes which can be confusing or inconclusive. A lot of advise is just to read the codes, this is what I always did and said until I found out that a low power situation can also throw a torque sensor error (two confirmed cases)
mainly fails only cold mornings, likely battery or earth
or
mainly fails in winter, likely battery or earth
or
on the way to work but not on the way back, likely battery or earth
mainly fails First few minutes of driving, likely battery or earth
mainly fails First few T junctions, likely battery or earth
mainly fails reversing into a parking space, especially as you press the brake, likely battery or earth
mainly fails when at low REVs, likely battery or earth
only fails when going over a bump, loose cable / earth
only fails when the roads are wet loose alternator belt none aircon model's
mainly fails as you slow down from a fast run loose alternator belt none aircon model's
squeal as you accelerate random red light loose alternator belt none aircon model's
totally random Red light steering fine or goes heavy, normally battery or earth
red light on or off steering feels funny in one direction. Faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
red light on or off random vibration of the steering wheel. faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
only fails on hard lock in one direction, faulty torque sensor is likely, thankfully rare
steering wheel turns on its own, faulty torque sensor, never seen on the Panda, but have on other delphi EPS
battery substation, this has fixed hundreds of cars, at least 4 cars for me.
its worth mechanically cleaning the battery connectors first, unknow how many this fixes as often just swaping the battery hides the true fix. Both the terminal posts and inside of the connectors need to free from oxides. You can't tell by looking at them. you need to remove a clean clean them mechanical, both inside of the connectors and the lead post. I use a green scouring pad
At least two people on this forum have had the battery tested okay by a garages fancy electronic tester, for the fault to be the battery. Often wasting weeks going round in circles. Also testing with a simple volt meter is a waste of time. I have had a battery with dead cells and measured well under 12V at rest but never failed on the steering.
If someone could come up with a reliable test, life would be so much easier. I have tried with several meters on faulty cars and none have shown any problems with the battery or alternator. Nine time out of ten you are just wasting time and effort.
Only if you have any early 1.1 with cassette play or a none original replacement radio will you need the code for the radio. Everything else (the vast majority) you can disconnect at will as the code is remembered
If you place the battery on charge overnight and it improves is highly likely its on the way out. If its over 5 year its also quite likely
I have two cars. By far the easiest way for me is to swap the batteries over. A very High percentage of problems is nothing more than the battery this is what I always try fist unless the symptoms say otherwise. Having a spare battery is a big help, as you dont want to needless buy a new battery, but I know of no reliable test
I then move onto the quick and free solutions
not sure what to call this but its fixed at least 4 cars permanently, one mine(lock to lock). Park up preferably grass or gravel, kinder to the tyres but not essential, raise the revs to around 2K and quickly move the steering from lock to lock 4 or five times. Also you can also try toggling between city mode and normal driving it in each for a few minutes, this is also known to have fixed a car permanently in the past.
Power steering motor earth, I know of two car this has fixed. You can't tell by looking, unbolt it and clean with a green scouring pad or similar. The earth for the steering motor is bolted directly on top of the battery earth post. I would like to point out the earth on top of the gearbox has nothing to do with the power steering. Its often one of the first things people suggest.
If the car turns over (cranks) fine it will be fine.
torque sensor reseat, rare but I have had this fix one car for me, unplug and spray with contact cleaner and plug back in
I know nothing about this but someone had success by removing the motor and turning it through 180 degrees
recalibration with software, as far as I know this has fixed one, you can use multiecuscan, delphi, WOW and possibly more
one person has spotted a faulty alternator via a cigarette lighter volt meter.
before you check the alternator its best to inspect belt is tight, (I have had one fail due to a loose belt, I suspect there should be more.) not cracked or missing sections
moving on to the alternator itself, as far as I know this has fixed one, this is how I test mine
Listen for noises, squeal, rumble or grinding
the bearing can be checked with some rubber Hose works like a stethoscope. Although I find it easier to just slip the belt off and see if the noise goes
Let the battery rest for a few hours after a run then connect a volt meter on DC volts leads on the battery positive and negative terminals It should read 12.5-12.65 volts.
Start the engine should be between 13.5-14.5 volts. Mine is 14.1V. If its low try wiggling the wires if it jumps up suspect a loose connection
turning on the main beam, rear heated windows and blowers on max, voltage should remain above 13 volts, rev the engine it shouldn't go above 15V
we are now running out of simple solution
if you now read the error code and it says power. I have missed something out. sorry possibly the earth block bolted to the footwell but have never heard of one failing
if you have torque sensor symptoms and only a torque sensor error your only option is either change the steering column or torque sensor
torque sensor replace, this had fix quite a few in the past, less so now, we have learnt more since the early days, so make sure that it has been cleaned(contact cleaner) and reseat first otherwise it might not be the fault, but just fixed by swapping out the old dirty connector for a new part with a clean connector
I would like to add. From my experience that it can be a pain to fix. But stick with it. I have done at least a dozen not just Fiats, Not a single one yet has required a major repair in the end. In fact the only part I have ever replaced is the battery. The rest have just been reseat, clean, recalibrate or tighten belt. The odds have to be in favour of a cheap and easy repair.
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