Hi there folks : My multijet 2011 Panda is acting up now especially annoying when I was heading to doc's for an appointment. Right, doesn't turn over to start even with 13v in battery as I use battery saver. Starter replaced about 2 years ago. My mechanic mentioned that starter lecy connection was a bit odd, like press on. Got a list of fuses to check, F18. R09. F11. F17. F22. From reading forums I get idea starter is not reliable regarding earth. Anyone got idea's to sort it out as I'm a bitt bu++ered with this COPD I've got.
Technical Engine no start.
- Thread starter goggs
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Technical
Engine no start.
Hi
1st port of call..
by pass .. the single earth cable with a 'jump lead' .... from battery negative to engine metal ( the factory earth cable can rot internally)
Trickier.. my mj did similar..
The braided copper cable on the starter body had a corroded connector..
It needed to be slackened..wriggled and retightened..
Try the jumplead first..
See IF the dash lights DIM as you turn the key
Let us know what you find
1st port of call..
by pass .. the single earth cable with a 'jump lead' .... from battery negative to engine metal ( the factory earth cable can rot internally)
Trickier.. my mj did similar..
The braided copper cable on the starter body had a corroded connector..
It needed to be slackened..wriggled and retightened..
Try the jumplead first..
See IF the dash lights DIM as you turn the key
Let us know what you find
First thing I can report back on is the dash lights don't dim on trying to start.
as @varesecrazy said a Good start is to eliminate the earth strap by using a jump lead
its fairly common for the ignition switch to fail, I have replaced two.
dont think there's an easy test, as when they fail if and you turn the keys the headlights still go off as normal. As I found out the hard way.
you need to measure the volts directly on the solenoid wire as the key is turned.
sometimes you can get them to work temporary by turning the key very slowly
its fairly common for the ignition switch to fail, I have replaced two.
dont think there's an easy test, as when they fail if and you turn the keys the headlights still go off as normal. As I found out the hard way.
you need to measure the volts directly on the solenoid wire as the key is turned.
sometimes you can get them to work temporary by turning the key very slowly
Yes well it's alive again and starting no problem. All down to starter motor and it's electrical connections. My lecy mentions a slack securing nut which has come slack due to plastic fittings.. Need a bit clearance on that but none forthcoming. I see she's running sweatly as well know, must be due to that plastic tie I used to pull together the vent pipe atop engine next to dipstick..
