Technical ECU wiring plugs

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Technical ECU wiring plugs

Paraman

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I just want to remove the 2 wiring plugs going into the 2 side by side ECUs in my Euro5 69bhp engine (2011). So that I can check they have a good connection. I have a detox spray waiting! But it looks like I have to lift up a red plastic locking tab, but these are very hard to move and I don't want to break them!
The reason I want to do this is because, despite new plugs, leads and coil, and no codes on the canbus reader, engine is jerky on low throttle settings. All happened in last 2 weeks. Fine before that and old plugs all nice and biscuit coloured. Anyone else struggled to remove these plugs?
 

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this will not be you problem

you really need to have done them before and know how much force to use

if you just lift them and they are corroded together then you will just snap pins off and leads to a world of pain and expense

if they are stuck you have to open them a bit and push them back down

anyhow heres how you do it

temp.jpg

push the middle bit inwards
temp2.jpg

and lift upwards
 
engine mounts
oil and condensation in the inlet manifold
throttle pedal
throttle position sensor
or
plus many more
but never seen the ECU plugs cause kangarooing
 
Last edited:
Check the error codes. A faulty throttle pedal or throttle body will raise fault codes.
 
Last edited:
Check the error codes. A faulty throttle pedal will raise fault codes.
generally not. It doesn't know if its you on the throttle

if can press on for a few years kangarooing and a faulty throttle

I have had one fail, no error codes while it was kangarooing. Only when it would randomly started to accelerate hard did it throw a code.

on paper the theory is it has two track and should throw a code, In practice it doesn't

mine was a 2011 1.2 eco but there have been others
 
I thought there was a cross-check between throttle position and pedal position. If not then (as you say) it will simply do what the pedal tells it to do.
 
I thought there was a cross-check between throttle position and pedal position. If not then (as you say) it will simply do what the pedal tells it to do.
Kind of correct

There are two track in the pedal. They are offset. It does throw an error if one of the tracks is damaged

In practice it’s not always the case. At lest two people have fixed jerkiness by replacing the pedal but no code. I fixed mine by resetting the electrical connector. It did eventually throw a code but had been faulty for about a year before this


It’s not the only cause though. Low level misfire is probably the most common followed by mounts
 
this will not be you problem

you really need to have done them before and know how much force to use

if you just lift them and they are corroded together then you will just snap pins off and leads to a world of pain and expense

if they are stuck you have to open them a bit and push them back down

anyhow heres how you do it

View attachment 407216
push the middle bit inwards
View attachment 407217
and lift upwards
They lifted up easily once I had figured out the release catch. All shiny pins and no dirt. Probably not the problem!
 
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