Thank you again for the reply. The car is not losing coolant anywhere, nor is it consuming any. Last year, I had changed the water pump and the radiator. I remember the mechanic showed me the pump and it had a metal impeller. If the radiator were the problem, shouldn't I have had the same issue before my first visit to the repair shop?
Technical Cooling system problem
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Technical
Cooling system problem
I would say they are 100% working efficiently, considering this
That mechanic just doesn't know/doesn't do the bleeding properly. He just does it wrong repeatedly and says it should work. It wouldn't!
Thank you very much for your help. Yes, he followed the exact same procedure. He let the car cool down, removed the thermostat, and installed the new one. Then he changed the sensor, filled the reservoir with coolant, and performed the bleeding process in the same way.
Car reaches 98.....if that's 98 degrees c that's not unusual. Does the electric rad fan come on ?
If you have already stated on thread sorry ,it's quite a long thread
I can't recall if your car ecu turns rad fan on and off or if fan has a separated switch in rad tank
Some vehicle fans don't come in till over 100degrees
If you have already stated on thread sorry ,it's quite a long thread
I can't recall if your car ecu turns rad fan on and off or if fan has a separated switch in rad tank
Some vehicle fans don't come in till over 100degrees
Good evening. Yes, the cooling fan engages at 97-98°C. The problem is that the temperature stays consistently at 96°C and the fan runs non-stop; the temperature never drops to 92-93°C for the fan to switch off. Before my first visit to the shop, the car would reach 97°C, the fan would kick in, the temperature would drop to 92°C, and then the fan would shut off.
Are you reading temp using obd?
Does it stay 96 when diving gently on clear empty road?
When fan running constantly spray rad with water-you don't need much hand held sprayer enough , see if temp falls and fan stops. If it does rad may be faulty.
Does it stay 96 when diving gently on clear empty road?
When fan running constantly spray rad with water-you don't need much hand held sprayer enough , see if temp falls and fan stops. If it does rad may be faulty.
I am surprised that when the electric fan cuts in and doesn't bring the temp. down.
Can you feel the air being drawn through the radiator by the fan, as a test a piece of paper held in front should stick to the radiator as it sucks air through.
Can you feel the air being drawn through the radiator by the fan, as a test a piece of paper held in front should stick to the radiator as it sucks air through.
Yes it is stay 96 driving gently and also at open road.Also at open road if i press more the car goes and 98-99
I know you mentioned new rad didn't affect temp, but I have has similar driving gently no problem but if driving fast the radiator couldn't dissipate the heat, in that case the rad tubes were partially blocked.
I will check it.With open bonnet i can feel only hot air at engine bay
Don't forget what I mentioned about the pressure/rad cap, even if water/coolant in the engine is fairly hot, as long as it is under pressure it is safe even at 100-110 degrees Centigrade, but once the pressure drops whether through opening the cap or if a hose or radiator splits, then it becomes dangerous.
Of course fan can't cool down the coolant if there is air in the radiator. That is the main problem there.
Did uou not pay attention on how the bleeding was don there?
@Sabbas, do open the breathers as I mentioned above and do tell if air comes out. If air comes out and you let it all come out, that will be the fix.
And I did a video opening the radiator's cap soon after stopping the engine. Was about 1-2 minutes after turning the engine off, but it's the same just immediately after turning the engine off. Needle on temp gauge was at the middle, I showed that at the end.
No coolant comes out.
Did uou not pay attention on how the bleeding was don there?
@Sabbas, do open the breathers as I mentioned above and do tell if air comes out. If air comes out and you let it all come out, that will be the fix.
And I did a video opening the radiator's cap soon after stopping the engine. Was about 1-2 minutes after turning the engine off, but it's the same just immediately after turning the engine off. Needle on temp gauge was at the middle, I showed that at the end.
No coolant comes out.
Good morning. I tested it with a thin sheet of paper while the fan was running. The paper stuck to the bumper grilles.
Good morning. I let the car run until it reached operating temperature and then turned it off. I opened the small radiator bleeder screw two to three turns, and it started releasing a few air bubbles. I closed it and then opened the heater bleeder screw; unfortunately, nothing came out from there—neither bubbles nor coolant. One thing I noticed this morning was that the coolant level in the reservoir was between the 'min' and 'max' marks, exactly in the middle. Once the car warmed up, the coolant level rose to exactly the 'max' mark.
I will upload a photo later this afternoon, unfortunately, it's very sunny outside and the photo doesn't come out clearly.
