Technical Clutch pedal not working after clutch replacement.

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Technical Clutch pedal not working after clutch replacement.

Try removing the flywheel and try without the centre bolts and ring
Yeah, that step has got me doubting. I know the old friction plate sits flat on it, the new friction plates are the same size as the old one and I'm fairly sure they sit flat against the flywheel but have not looked for it specifically.
 
You need to check this

Because if they do bend flat I can't see it being anything except the refitting of the flywheel

If it's fine, then it's almost certainly a compatabiliy error
Yeah I will do that again and record it.
 
Cheers 👍

I did try and cross reference the original AP part numbers

Unfortunately I didn't get too far

The number on the drive plate is generic and is used in many different clutch kits. The numbers on the pressure plate didn’t come back with any hits for me
 
Does the old pressure plate fit with the old friction plate - presumably, yes.
Does the new pressure plate fit with the old friction plate?
If yes, compare new and old friction plates.
If no, you have an incompatible pressure plate.
 
Good morning everyone,
I have done more measurements and here is how the friction plates compare to each other and sit against the flywheel. I measured the step that was observed on the flywheel at 0.04 with my caliper. I gave it a few passes with the emery cloth. Some hairlines on the flywheel left by it.
 

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Good morning everyone,
I have done more measurements and here is how the friction plates compare to each other and sit against the flywheel. I measured the step that was observed on the flywheel at 0.04 with my caliper. I gave it a few passes with the emery cloth. Some hairlines on the flywheel left by it
 
This is what I got when I installed the original worn clutch.
 

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Old pressure plate and new friction plate.
 

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The centre of the new friction plate looks higher then the old.
True, this is the Ridex one but the same thing happens with the Valeo and the transmech. The transmech is the one that most resembles the original.
I am also almost sure that if the original friction plate was not worn, it would also compress the spring diaphragm flat when torqued to spec and thus no clutch pedal travel.
 
If i am looking at the video of the old old clutch being refitted

The fingers don't compress

The release lever is at the correct angle to the bell housing

But there isn't enough movement and the pedal jams

And all the other clutchs fail at the tighten the tightening pressure plate stage

The only thing that's changed is the flywheel been off

If this is correct I suggest trying to see what happens if you tighten one of the new clutches to the flyweel off the car
 
Let have a recap

The clutch was working but worn out

The gearbox was taken off

The flywheel was taken off

The surface of the flywheel cleaned up with emery

A new clutch fitted but the fingers now get mashed down

The slave cylinder get smashed off

New slave fitted

The same happens with Ridex Valeo and the transmech clutches

Original AP worn out clutch refitted. The release arm is in the correct position but now the slave only has 5mm of travel before it jams instead of 15+ mm


It was working now doesn’t

I'd start by taking the flywheel off and fitting one of the new clutches on the bench.

By loosing the centre spacer and bolts. There not much it can be. On the bench it should be fairly obvious
 
@koalar
Is it possible the arm that the slave cylinder pushes has been incorrectly fitted to the release fork shaft before the op got the car?
 
@koalar
Is it possible the arm that the slave cylinder pushes has been incorrectly fitted to the release fork shaft before the op got the car?
No

One end is welded

The other has a spline that's different

Anyhow if you compare my video posted earlier and the original AP clutch fitted above you will see they are identical except the original posters jams after 5 mm of movement
 
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