Technical  Clutch high bite point, new clutch?

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Technical  Clutch high bite point, new clutch?

rosstaylor

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Hi guys. I've just bought a 2009 Mamy and it's got a very high clutch bite point?

Is this definitely going to mean a new clutch?

How hard is this likely to be as a DIY job?

I'm going to be doing the timing belt myself soon, which I'm nervous about but pretty confident that I can do it.

But I've found lots of videos showing how to do the timing belt, but no (English) ones showing how to replace the clutch.

Anyone got anything reassuring to offer?
 
Yes its DIY doable I done several

It's a readable maul and easier to get back if there's two of you

Plenty of videos of it being done to guide you

I do it with a block of wood across the wings and a rope helps if you have a good selection of tools
 
Wow, I can't imagine how that would work.
I just try googling this and struggled to find anything

Eventually finding my own photo on here

I have no recollection of taking the photo or posting it

73CD50E1-23D5-49DB-B334-E17BBA36A9D0.jpeg


From here

 
I can't remember a clutch being a high bite point

There self adjusting

When worn they normally go stiff or slip

How high are we talking about bottom 0% top 100%

Are we talking about 60 70 80 90%

Mybe @irc has some further input
 
Only high bite point problems I've seen on a Panda were from incorrect reassembly following gearbox removal (or wrong parts used - I believe i saw a 500 with an incorrect slave cylinder which had a crazy high bite point, not even sure travel reached bite point)
Low bite point is low/leaking fluid (internally or externally),
stiff action with slow return is usually bad slave,
really stiff action is knackered clutch plate with release bearing about to go right through (and a driver who has no mechanical sympathy)
Nothing I can think of puts the bite point high except previous mistake.
Sorry.
 
Only high bite point problems I've seen on a Panda were from incorrect reassembly following gearbox removal (or wrong parts used - I believe i saw a 500 with an incorrect slave cylinder which had a crazy high bite point, not even sure travel reached bite point)
Low bite point is low/leaking fluid (internally or externally),
stiff action with slow return is usually bad slave,
really stiff action is knackered clutch plate with release bearing about to go right through (and a driver who has no mechanical sympathy)
Nothing I can think of puts the bite point high except previous mistake.
Sorry.
OK. Well that's reassuring... I think. I immediately asked AI which told me that the clutch was on the way out, but I'm happy to hear that's not the case.
 
Well, it could be good news if its something external like a problem with the slave cylinder, but not so much if someone fitted the clutch wrong...
Has it had a clutch change recently?
Or a new slave cylinder?
 
Well, it could be good news if its something external like a problem with the slave cylinder, but not so much if someone fitted the clutch wrong...
Has it had a clutch change recently?
Or a new slave cylinder?
Not that I know of. I've just bought the car with very little history.
 
Sounds more like master cylinder needs replacement than new clutch needed.
Do take a look on how much does the slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork when pedal is pressed, so you'd know if it's an actuating system problem (master and slave cylinders) or clutch problem.
OK, this is now getting beyond my understanding. I'll have to do some research to try and gain some more knowledge.
 
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