Technical Gearbox Removal and Refit

[Drozich]

Hi,

Is there a tread or a 'how to' guide on removal and refitting of the gearbox on a Fiat 500 1.2?

Car is a POP model and is a 2010 year.

I need to sort the input shaft bearing and seal so the box has to come out completely.

Will be doing this on my drive without any ramps.

Thanks in advance.

Stevie

 

[koalar]

I’d study this first

 

[koalar]

Then

Study

This https://4cardata.info/elearn/199/2/199000000/199000000/199000001/199000943

 

[koalar]

I use a sturdy piece of wood across the wings and a rope around the gearbox


The hight you lift the car is important you only need it high enough to pull the gearbox underneath any heifer makes it harder

 

[koalar]

A different way to remove the drive shaft if the hammer and chisel fails

Catastrophic Clutch Failure | FIAT Panda (Mk3)

It's strange how some do that isn't it. I think it's the position of the circlip in it's groove. If it's managed to get itself all to one side I think that's where the problem comes from. I tend to give it a couple of good strong jerks with my big tyre lever and if it doesn't jump out I turn the...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[Drozich]

I’d study this first

Thank you. I saw this one but he keeps the box resting on the chassis leg and I need it completely out. Is it just a case of taking the bumper off and then the chassis leg off? I’ve done the lower arms a couple of times so I’m happy enough to do that.

 

[koalar]

Thank you. I saw this one but he keeps the box resting on the chassis leg and I need it completely out. Is it just a case of taking the bumper off and then the chassis leg off? I’ve done the lower arms a couple of times so I’m happy enough to do that.

Yes

It’s a strengthening bar

Annoying it’s not present on the Panda

 

[Ralf S.]

The gearbox is fairly straightforward but "on the ground" makes it a special joy..

The wheel arch liner has to come out and the bumper has to come off. The bumper support bar and therefore the front transverse impact bar has to come out.

I think I also removed the wishbone arm and the caliper (hang it up from the spring) and moved the hub out of the way by detaching it from the damper, just because them being in your way is more of a PITA than an extra half-hour of removing, including a cuppa tea.

The gearbox has the starter attached, which is a bit awkward. To get to it you will probably want the battery and carrier frame out too. As above, the space you get is worth more than the hassle costs.

Gearchange cables and starter are relatively straightforward now. Unbolt the slave cylinder and hook it out of the way.

Drain the gearbox oil and remove the driveshaft by using a pry-bar to pop it out at the cup.

The gearbox just unbolts. I think there's an extra bit of "awkward" around the flywheel cover/exhaust support bracket is connected to the gearbox but you'll see it when you're there. I dropped the gearbox onto a partly raised jack, so I could lower it gracefully. I had loads of old packets, rags and boxes under it, in case it fell off onto the ground.

Things to buy are gear oil, the exhaust support bracket (yours may have rusted away years ago) and unless you're having a great time and fancy doing this all again in a few months.. a new clutch kit.

The biggest aggro is lifting the gearbox back up. I managed to jack my car up as high as possible on my 2 jacks/axle stands and the using another jack to support the gearbox, roll it into place and lift it up more or less to the point where you can muscle it into place. If you have an extra person then it will help if they can help "steer" it into place as you lift it... but it's possible to do it on your own.

I used a piece of new cardboard under the trolley jack to make it easier to manoeuvre it (tarmac is too "lumpy") with the gearbox on board.

The rest is just a "Haynes"... just the driveshaft needs to be snapped into position, not just pused home, otherwise it'll leak. If you take a photo of it before you start, you'll see how close the cup should be to the diff casing.


Ralf S.

 

[Drozich]

The gearbox is fairly straightforward but "on the ground" makes it a special joy..

The wheel arch liner has to come out and the bumper has to come off. The bumper support bar and therefore the front transverse impact bar has to come out.

I think I also removed the wishbone arm and the caliper (hang it up from the spring) and moved the hub out of the way by detaching it from the damper, just because them being in your way is more of a PITA than an extra half-hour of removing, including a cuppa tea.

The gearbox has the starter attached, which is a bit awkward. To get to it you will probably want the battery and carrier frame out too. As above, the space you get is worth more than the hassle costs.

Gearchange cables and starter are relatively straightforward now. Unbolt the slave cylinder and hook it out of the way.

Drain the gearbox oil and remove the driveshaft by using a pry-bar to pop it out at the cup.

The gearbox just unbolts. I think there's an extra bit of "awkward" around the flywheel cover/exhaust support bracket is connected to the gearbox but you'll see it when you're there. I dropped the gearbox onto a partly raised jack, so I could lower it gracefully. I had loads of old packets, rags and boxes under it, in case it fell off onto the ground.

Things to buy are gear oil, the exhaust support bracket (yours may have rusted away years ago) and unless you're having a great time and fancy doing this all again in a few months.. a new clutch kit.

The biggest aggro is lifting the gearbox back up. I managed to jack my car up as high as possible on my 2 jacks/axle stands and the using another jack to support the gearbox, roll it into place and lift it up more or less to the point where you can muscle it into place. If you have an extra person then it will help if they can help "steer" it into place as you lift it... but it's possible to do it on your own.

I used a piece of new cardboard under the trolley jack to make it easier to manoeuvre it (tarmac is too "lumpy") with the gearbox on board.

The rest is just a "Haynes"... just the driveshaft needs to be snapped into position, not just pused home, otherwise it'll leak. If you take a photo of it before you start, you'll see how close the cup should be to the diff casing.


Ralf S.

Absolutely fantastic! Thank you for that, it's a HUGE help!!

 

[Drozich]

The gearbox is fairly straightforward but "on the ground" makes it a special joy..

The wheel arch liner has to come out and the bumper has to come off. The bumper support bar and therefore the front transverse impact bar has to come out.

I think I also removed the wishbone arm and the caliper (hang it up from the spring) and moved the hub out of the way by detaching it from the damper, just because them being in your way is more of a PITA than an extra half-hour of removing, including a cuppa tea.

The gearbox has the starter attached, which is a bit awkward. To get to it you will probably want the battery and carrier frame out too. As above, the space you get is worth more than the hassle costs.

Gearchange cables and starter are relatively straightforward now. Unbolt the slave cylinder and hook it out of the way.

Drain the gearbox oil and remove the driveshaft by using a pry-bar to pop it out at the cup.

The gearbox just unbolts. I think there's an extra bit of "awkward" around the flywheel cover/exhaust support bracket is connected to the gearbox but you'll see it when you're there. I dropped the gearbox onto a partly raised jack, so I could lower it gracefully. I had loads of old packets, rags and boxes under it, in case it fell off onto the ground.

Things to buy are gear oil, the exhaust support bracket (yours may have rusted away years ago) and unless you're having a great time and fancy doing this all again in a few months.. a new clutch kit.

The biggest aggro is lifting the gearbox back up. I managed to jack my car up as high as possible on my 2 jacks/axle stands and the using another jack to support the gearbox, roll it into place and lift it up more or less to the point where you can muscle it into place. If you have an extra person then it will help if they can help "steer" it into place as you lift it... but it's possible to do it on your own.

I used a piece of new cardboard under the trolley jack to make it easier to manoeuvre it (tarmac is too "lumpy") with the gearbox on board.

The rest is just a "Haynes"... just the driveshaft needs to be snapped into position, not just pused home, otherwise it'll leak. If you take a photo of it before you start, you'll see how close the cup should be to the diff casing.


Ralf S.

One last thing. Lining up the clutch friction plate, do you use a special tool? I have a couple from my old Honda days but not sure if they'll fit. Happy to buy one if needs be.

 

[Ralf S.]

For the 500 I bought a "universal clutch alignment tool" because I've never had one... but it was fiddly and I don't think it was easier than using my usual remedy, which is a (typically) 15mm socket in the flywheel recess. A 500 might need a smaller socket.. I used the tool this time, so I didn't offer up a socket to check.


Ralf S.

 

[koalar]

One last thing. Lining up the clutch friction plate, do you use a special tool? I have a couple from my old Honda days but not sure if they'll fit. Happy to buy one if needs be.

You can bodge something together from a dowel and rap tape around it

But you don’t want to have a failure and have to lift the gearbox up twice

This is the one I have used on a few times

This type is easier to use, quicker but will not work on every model car. The new mini being one

 

[koalar]

Sorry

Helps if I post the correct link

2110A10 MANUAL GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL - R + R - Fiat - NUOVA 500 - eLearn - 4CarData

 

[koalar]

I need to sort the input shaft bearing and seal so the box has to come out completely

There’s a small gap between the bearing and the gear which needs to be measured before you knock the old one off the shaft

happy days if the outer shell is still there but if it’s missing you can’t get a bearing puller on. I then resort to brute force

 

[koalar]

I use a bar across the wings and tie it off just a little low. Then get under and push and wiggle

If you are on your own you can lift it up with tie down straps
Trust me you I only want it just higher enough

 

[Drozich]

You can bodge something together from a dowel and rap tape around it

But you don’t want to have a failure and have to lift the gearbox up twice

This is the one I have used on a few times

This type is easier to use, quicker but will not work on every model car. The new mini being one

View attachment 417949View attachment 417950View attachment 417951

Thank you for that - much appreciated

 

[Drozich]

I use a bar across the wings and tie it off just a little low. Then get under and push and wiggle

If you are on your own you can lift it up with tie down straps
Trust me you I only want it just higher enough

View attachment 417953

That's great, thank you. When you say 'tie down straps' are they the same at 'ratchet straps' as I have some of those?

 

[koalar]

That's great, thank you. When you say 'tie down straps' are they the same at 'ratchet straps' as I have some of those?

Yes

If there’s two of you it’s not worth the effort in my opinion. I borrowed a neighbour last time

Get it pretty close and tie it off

Balances really nice at the join with the bellhousing


You can then get under it and bend your knees and wiggle it on. As long as it’s not too high. Don’t forget there’s a stud towards the rear as I did once.

I have a few jacks. One is tied up supporting the engine. I like to use a scissor jack here with a piece of wood on top under the sump. It’s important to spread the load. The sump is easily damaged.

 

[Ralf S.]

That reminded me - it's best to remove the air pipe to the airbox.. Once the gearbox mount is loosened off, the engine can drop and the pipe gets crushed/twisted etc. It's only a push-fit affair.. so 5 seconds to work out how to remove it..

I supported the engine under the sump but with a big flat piece of timber to spread the load, otherwise it will dent. It's fiddly on your own... mainly because you end up with a jack or stand, just in the way of what you're trying to do next.. You definitely need 2 or 3 jacks.. anyone who claims to be able to do it with just one, is either lying or they knoe what they're doing...



Ralf S.