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Release arm could be bent. Maybe new driven plate is the wrong way around, though I'm not sure if that's possible.
Technical Catastrophic Clutch Failure
- Thread starter Sfrontato
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Technical Catastrophic Clutch Failure
I put the clutch plate round the wrong way in a Suzuki Jimmy once, it engaged first and reverse but nothing else…I still don’t know why and how this was possible as gear selector and selection should have been possible on all or none, very strange
PS I’ve NEVER done it since
Just a little suggestion if possible on your vehicle, using a suitable lever push the release arm to it's maximum travel, don't force it but lock it into place. Then start car and see if car goes into the gears quietly with no issue (obviously you will have no drive) if it does then problem external, hydraulics etc. If it doesn't then another look inside the gearbox.
The only argument against this test would be if your replacement release arm and bushes were not as original condition.
Only do this test for a short while so as not to strain anything.
Also I see from a photo of a new arm they sit on a spline, I assume it has a master spline. Is there any chance it isn't on the master spline position, in which case the throw might be wrong. It may be possible to check/adjust that to correct position externally if careful .
Perhaps another member will advise.
Generally if centre plate reversed the thicker part fouls the flywheel centre/bolts meaning clutch cannot disengage at all.
Perhaps another member will advise.
Generally if centre plate reversed the thicker part fouls the flywheel centre/bolts meaning clutch cannot disengage at all.
Yep one of the splines is wider and only fits one way
Do you mean here
About 30 thousands or .7mm
Hardly detectable
I am pretty sure the slave is always pushing the the cup tight but have to wait until the cars here to confirm
I was thinking on the right hand side of your photo, yours looks a better quality part than the one I have just seen on eBay, but same principle.
I didn't know if it could be forced on out of line causing the clutch throw to be in the wrong position, do you think it possible?
I didn't know if it could be forced on out of line causing the clutch throw to be in the wrong position, do you think it possible?
Nothing “should” move
The fingers are welded to the shaft
And the shaft splines are keyed
I will try and get more measurements ASAP unfortunately it driver is poorly in bed at the moment
Yes, I mentioned early I thought it would be keyed, but I have seen cases of cars were that has been "over ridden", I suppose also as driver mentioned lever was a pattern part so may not be OEM exactly
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Bleed the clutch again but bring the pedal up slowly to avoid sucking air past the seals. If this helps, you'll need to get another master cylinder. Its a shame we can't get new seals but none are listed.
This last unit is reasonably priced and looks like the Borg & Beck I fitted.
I do the job with a wood batten between driver's seat back and pedal. Push down the pedal and hold with stick. Open and close the bleed nipple. Remove the pedal stick while bringing pedal up slowly. Repeat a few times. You'll need to top up the fluid reservoir every four or five pedal pushes. Go too low and it sucks in air.
This last unit is reasonably priced and looks like the Borg & Beck I fitted.
I do the job with a wood batten between driver's seat back and pedal. Push down the pedal and hold with stick. Open and close the bleed nipple. Remove the pedal stick while bringing pedal up slowly. Repeat a few times. You'll need to top up the fluid reservoir every four or five pedal pushes. Go too low and it sucks in air.
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As an apprentice late 60s we always fitted brake and clutch seals which were readily available, as long as the job was done correctly using proper rubber grease etc, I would say they would last at least as long as some of today's pattern parts.
Girling brakes as fitted to Fords could be bled fairly quickly , but Lockheed often used on BMC etc. were less forgiving and as you say if pedal came back quickly the master cylinder outer seal would tuck in and allow air beck into the sytem, so you soon learnt not to do it.
All three pedals in the car at level with a straight edge over the top
There is no play between the slave a release lever
Here’s the best video I could get without stripping parts
There is no play between the slave a release lever
Here’s the best video I could get without stripping parts
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Thanks Koalar,
That looks very similar to what I have. With the slave out, there is about 10mm or so of play in the release arm.
Have ordered new clutch, Birth release fork and bushes. Will be comparing/measurings bits once I get an opportunity to drop the 'box again.
That looks very similar to what I have. With the slave out, there is about 10mm or so of play in the release arm.
Have ordered new clutch, Birth release fork and bushes. Will be comparing/measurings bits once I get an opportunity to drop the 'box again.
I found it interesting in the video above you can see the point where the foot is resting on the clutch pedal and fully off the pedal
been telling them for years not to rest the foot on the pedal but they aren’t listening
been telling them for years not to rest the foot on the pedal but they aren’t listening
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Have you bled the clutch using the slow up method on the pedal? It would be a shame to open it up again to find master cylinder is the real culprit.
Have you replaced the shifter seal? It's extremely easy to incorrectly set the gear lever bias springs. When that happens, you can't find half of the gears.
Have you replaced the shifter seal? It's extremely easy to incorrectly set the gear lever bias springs. When that happens, you can't find half of the gears.
As Dave says it would be a shame to open it up and find master cylinder the culprit.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Agree with this. The splines do look less than ideally clean in the photos too.
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The gearbox input shaft splines hardly see any movement at all. They simply allow the clutch driven plate to align when fitted and move as the friction surface wears. after fitting, the plate moves about 2mm over 50K to 75K miles. Total thickness drops by 4mm. However it does benefit from a good s ear of anti seize paste. This prevents any vibration fretting from damaging the splines.
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My diesel now has the engine out. The clutch was replaced quite recently but it’s unlikely the master cylinder was changed. I’ll be doing it before the engine goes back in. Access with that big lump in place looked pretty miserable. Fiat even moved the fluid reservoir to LHS to make space.
It’s an easy enough job on petrol engine models. Two nuts, two pipes with hairpin clips (don’t let them ping away) and a ball joint that has to be levered off the pedal.
It’s an easy enough job on petrol engine models. Two nuts, two pipes with hairpin clips (don’t let them ping away) and a ball joint that has to be levered off the pedal.
