Technical Cannot bleed coolant :(

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Technical Cannot bleed coolant :(

As said above, I would have expected raising the back of the car would actually make success less likely but who cares because you've succeeded and that's what it's all about. Maybe your previous efforts took it just to the "brink" and, at that moment, almost anything you did would have been enough to just shift things?

The obvious question is; have you got a good hot heater? If so then I think you can say you've cracked it!
 
As said above, I would have expected raising the back of the car would actually make success less likely but who cares because you've succeeded and that's what it's all about. Maybe your previous efforts took it just to the "brink" and, at that moment, almost anything you did would have been enough to just shift things?

The obvious question is; have you got a good hot heater? If so then I think you can say you've cracked it!

Heater is hot, but then again it was when it had air in it, weirdly. The only tell-tale sign i had air in the matrix was a loud gurgle on revving/spinning up the water pump.

But i agree i think a combination of all of these methods has been the finishing move - it's a pretty crappy design i must say.
 
Ive just done two cam belts (1.2 and 1.4). Filling the coolant was by far the easiest job. Open the bleed valve (heater hose on 1.2, rad on 1.4) and fill until they flow clean. To be fair the 1.4 was easier (expansion bottle sits higher) but they both bled fine.
 
Ive just done two cam belts (1.2 and 1.4).

Hi Dave, were they both 8 valve engines and if so what years are they. I'm interested to know if the engines are the type with the "free running" - ie, unkeyed, - cam pulleys, did you slacken the cam pulley bolts as recommended and if you did have you had the check engine light illuminate indicating a Phonic Wheel relearn may be needed?
 
2007 8V 1.2-60 and 2007 16V 1.4-100. All done and happy. (y)

The 1.4 definitely has no locking key on the cam wheel. The 1.2 60 is keyed. The 1.1 and 1.2 69 I don't know.

I decided that if the new belts would fit without slackening the wheels, I'd just fit them. The 1.2 timed up as described in many instruction sets but twice it was out by one tooth at the cam. Advancing the cam by one tooth before tensioning pulled it to the correct position.

The 1.4 had locks on the cam AND the crank so I simply fitted the belt and tensioned it. To check the timing, with cam lock still in place, I removed the crank lock plate (from the engine block only). The crank did not shift position so job done. Any shift would be obvious and demand the cam wheel be loosened while tensioning the belt.

To be fair, the timing belts are precision equipment so it should be possible to swap them with no changes needed. If the cams have been taken apart, it would be necessary to go the whole way with loosened cam wheel.

My 1.4 slow coolant leak was from the water pump core plug/blanking plate. The shaft seal and bearing were good. The 1.2 belt and bearings all looked ok but I now had the parts, so just did the job.
 
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My 09 Panda Dynamic 1.2 clearly had quite a lot of air in the cooling system after the cambelt and water pump were replaced, very apparent with gurgling and sloshing noises coming from the heater matrix - I made matters worse by thinking I could just bleed the air out from the plastic thumbscrew on the heater pipe, which plainly did not work. Reading this thread galvanised me to do something about the air, to avoid any risk of head overheating.

A local Alfa mechanic suggested that physically blowing into the expansion tank can help to drive the air out of the system. That's plainly a non-starter because on my car the expansion tank is part of the radiator, so not very accessible! Then, I wondered if I could somehow adapt my Gunsons Eezibleed kit to pressurise the cooling system via the expansion tank filler, and allow the trapped air to be simply released. After a bit of experimentation this actually worked a treat, with most of the air coming out of the heater pipe bleed screw at the first attempt, and the car on level ground. The Eezibleed cap has to be held down firmly to seal effectively onto the expansion tank filler because the threads are not compatible, but a second bleed attempt with an obliging friend holding the Eezibleed cap down while I fiddled with bleed screws was a total success, hopefully permanent. I might get a suitable drilled rubber bung to use with the Eezibleed kit in future. Please note that I did make sure to fully clear out any DOT4 residue from the Eezibleed kit before I did any of this, and then rinsed it clean and dried it afterwards.

So, a good outcome for me, and hopefully useful for anyone else struggling to bleed air from the Panda cooling system.
 
I have had similar results..
KEEP THE CAP ON,
Open heater bleed screw @1 turn, Squeeze the Fat thermostat to Radiator hose,

This has the same overpressure effect forcing air out of the bleed screw,

Keep it squeezed as you hand tighten the screw (it has an o-ring so doesn't need much force)
 
Just fill slowly with both bleed screws open

Take the car for a drive until it's up to temperature

Slowly loosen the bleed screw while it's pressurised on the heater hose untill it stop hissing

Don't touch the rad cap while it's hot, very dangerous

And you are done


The panda is one of the easiest to bleed

It has a built in check valve

IMG_20240107_145242.jpg


It's something I do on a regular basis

Here's some core plugs

IMG_20240107_143752.jpg


And some thermostats

thermo.jpg

Along and hoses and general servicing
 
My 09 Panda Dynamic 1.2 clearly had quite a lot of air in the cooling system after the cambelt and water pump were replaced, very apparent with gurgling and sloshing noises coming from the heater matrix - I made matters worse by thinking I could just bleed the air out from the plastic thumbscrew on the heater pipe, which plainly did not work. Reading this thread galvanised me to do something about the air, to avoid any risk of head overheating.

A local Alfa mechanic suggested that physically blowing into the expansion tank can help to drive the air out of the system. That's plainly a non-starter because on my car the expansion tank is part of the radiator, so not very accessible! Then, I wondered if I could somehow adapt my Gunsons Eezibleed kit to pressurise the cooling system via the expansion tank filler, and allow the trapped air to be simply released. After a bit of experimentation this actually worked a treat, with most of the air coming out of the heater pipe bleed screw at the first attempt, and the car on level ground. The Eezibleed cap has to be held down firmly to seal effectively onto the expansion tank filler because the threads are not compatible, but a second bleed attempt with an obliging friend holding the Eezibleed cap down while I fiddled with bleed screws was a total success, hopefully permanent. I might get a suitable drilled rubber bung to use with the Eezibleed kit in future. Please note that I did make sure to fully clear out any DOT4 residue from the Eezibleed kit before I did any of this, and then rinsed it clean and dried it afterwards.

So, a good outcome for me, and hopefully useful for anyone else struggling to bleed air from the Panda cooling system.
A bit of brake fluid in the system won't do any harm. If I remember correctly we used to many years ago put a bit of brake fluid into the system to quiet down noisy water pumps.
 
I find ours is a king sized PITA as well. My solution. Fill rad almost to the top When cold, engine off I lean over and blow into the top of the rad as hard as I can. It does the trick but even so it took 6 months of topping up each week untill the level finally settled down. I concur that of the 85+ vehicles I have run this is by a country mile the most taxing to bleed the rad. Puggit Aud Jocks idea looks A1. Im considering modifying a radiator cap to allow a header vessel to be hung a meter or two above the car to apply pressure via gravity, as anti freeze is poisonous so my idea above is not a vary safe one. I need to change the front coolant pipe on Daffo and will report on the spare / modified rad cap idea in due course.
 
I have had terrible trouble trying to bleed the coolant on my panda my life. Tried everything here too. Then bought a cheap cooling system pressure tester. Put it on, pumped it up, opened heater bleed valve. Job done.
 
I have had terrible trouble trying to bleed the coolant on my panda my life. Tried everything here too. Then bought a cheap cooling system pressure tester. Put it on, pumped it up, opened heater bleed valve. Job done.
Not sure how that has any more effect than post #28..

But glad it's done the trick..

Is this a 4 cyl FIRE motor?

Not Diesel or Aircon.. 🤔
 
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