I'm seriously considering just getting a new car at this rate
I'm never going to get this working normally again. And although it's cool we made a switch, I feel sh*t using it. I just want it to work the way it should to be honest :-(
Here's one needing an ABS sensor or at worst a wheel bearing.
And you could almost certainly drive that away for £300 or so.
But - it's an end of life car. The Panda is designed to last 10-12 years or so; beyond that, if you're dependent on garages for everything, it'll likely cost your more to keep it on the road than the monthly payment on a new one, with all the hassle of an unreliable car. So it's possible for this to turn into a moneypit if someone buys it and then pays a third party to fix the faults as they occur.
It could be a good opportunity for the DIY motorist, especially if you have the space to buy two similar cars and use one as a parts pack.
Pandas make great cheap cars, providing you avoid the trap of paying dealer prices, both when buying and when fixing them when they break. A few years back I saw what was at the time a one owner 3yr old 1.2 dynamic eco with less than 6k on the clock go through a general house clearance auction for under £1900.
I mean the car drives brilliantly, the engine is so far bone dry with the new seals, shocks / clutch / etc all less than a year old.
Because if I get a 2012 car now, and continue the investment style that I have enjoyed with the Panda, surely it'll go farther. Problem is, all there seems to be that young, with low miles is a Suzuki Alto and I should already know better than that from a previous thread, but right now it seems like it'd work :-/
Probably the best way I know to lose the most money on a car in the shortest possible time is to buy a relatively new used one on finance from a dealer.
What would you do personally?
I've been there, many years ago now, but essentially the same situation.
What I did at the time was to buy a second car as a parts pack; it cost me the equivalent of about £100 today. If you'd had that, how much of what you've spent over the past six months would you have saved?
But in fairness cars were much simpler than, and practically anything was easily interchangeable; that's no longer the case and your wiper problem might leave you head scratching even if you had a second donor car.
What I'd do now (and you don't want to hear this) is to get rid of it and use public transport. Put your money and time into getting the best degree you can, and in the future, you'll be earning enough to buy what you really want. I managed to run some sort of private transport for approximately half the time I spent at Uni.
Six months after I'd graduated, I was earning enough to get into a nice bright shiny new car, and a nice bright shiny new house.
And you could almost certainly drive that away for £300 or so.
But - it's an end of life car. The Panda is designed to last 10-12 years or so; beyond that, if you're dependent on garages for everything, it'll likely cost your more to keep it on the road than the monthly payment on a new one, with all the hassle of an unreliable car. So it's possible for this to turn into a moneypit if someone buys it and then pays a third party to fix the faults as they occur. As SB1500 knows, the running cost of a 12yr old car is largely determined by what goes wrong with it, not what is good about it. Most of why the current owner is selling it is probably in this paragraph.
As a rule of thumb, once it's >10yrs old, a small family car with a year's MOT and all the major bits working will fetch about 10% of its cost when new if sold privately, and will hold that value as long as it stays working and roadworthy. Once you're spending more that that each year to keep it roadworthy (about £700pa for a Panda), then it's time to think about letting it go.
Another rule of thumb when valuing an old car with a short MOT is £100 + £50 for each month's MOT remaining. Most private owners in this situation are more concerned with getting the thing off the drive and being shot of the ownership responsibility than getting the best possible price for it.
It could be a good opportunity for the DIY motorist, especially if you have the space to buy two similar cars and use one as a parts pack.
Pandas make great cheap cars, providing you avoid the trap of paying dealer prices, both when buying and when fixing them when they break. A few years back I saw what was at the time a one owner 3yr old 1.2 dynamic eco with less than 6k on the clock go through a general house clearance auction for under £1900. You just have to be in the right place at the right time, and have the cash in your pocket.
SB already has a car with new radiator, new clutch, brakes, tyres except the wipers have gone titsup. There's loads of stuff to keep the either one going. The cost of course time trouble space, etc, etc.
On the other side, motor insurance costs for young people are insane so if a car isn't actually needed now could be the time to walk away.
Degrees these days cost a fortune and there is no such thing as an easy degree in any subject.
I chose Chiropractic which is uber tough worked like hell and scraped a pass but that was all I needed. Medicine you wont get very far without a 1:1 or 2:1 - so much competition. Any of the Arts have to be a first or people will say you were on a doss. My daughter worked hard for her History degree and got a 2nd so she wasn't overly happy.
I hardly think this is a reason to dump the car. These threads have gone on and on so it's difficult to understand what has been tested and deduced up to this point.
Do I have this right?
It seems that maybe the wiper mechanism is OK, even though it is worn and should be replaced or fixed. Also the motor seems to be working ok if all its circuits are energised externally - correct?
So it seems that maybe 2 wiper functions do not work when energised on the car, and the stalk switch is believed to be OK. This leaves either the ECU, relay unit or a wiring fault. It seems odd that it would only work up to 20% of travel, and then quit. A relay should be on or off depending on the command signal, and it seems that some of the other circuitry is self-regulating (e.g. parking).
I would have to have suspicions about the original faults reported initially, there is wear to the mechanism and water problems around the wiper wiring. It is possible that if something was shorting or not connecting properly that an electrical component could have been stressed. It's odd that it had a predictable fault that fixed itself, then came back, and it has now failed completely.
I would take it to a proper auto-electrician or the dealer, often they have a diagnostic program that steps through the symptoms and isolates even the trickiest fault. An AA guy at the roadside found a really obscure wire break in the injection of my 20 year old Tipo earlier this year.
Obviously if it is one of these coded units that is dodgy then you have a big decision to make.