when i replaced my handbrake linkages when i put the drums back on i had this problem. turned out to be the calipers had expanded a bit and pushed the pads out slightly. just gave them a squeze and the drum slipped on fine!
Technical bloomfieldliam's brake overhaul
- Thread starter Liam
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Technical bloomfieldliam's brake overhaul
:yeahthat:
First thing, I am not sure if Hynes manual tells you this (I don't have one), but before
you take out the old shoes you are supposed to block the cylinders by wrapping a piece of wire around them, so that they do not expand. Unless of course you also replace cylinders, which is whole another story...
Secondly, when the drum does not want to fit (and you are sure you've got the right shoes
), you should squeze the shoes together with two screwdrivers - put them against the backplate and put gentle force (so that you don't break the "brake/traction material") on the shoes to move them closer to the center. Remember the shoes have the "self adjuster" (don't know if that's the correct English term for this, but you should know what I mean, the stuff with the spring), which can move quite a bit. And that should work. Once you put everything back together and start using the brake, the "self adjuster" will move the shoes back into the optimal position.
Sorry for perhaps stating the obvious, but some poeple have no clue about this (even experienced machanics, I kid you not).
Cheers,
Wojtek
First thing, I am not sure if Hynes manual tells you this (I don't have one), but before
you take out the old shoes you are supposed to block the cylinders by wrapping a piece of wire around them, so that they do not expand. Unless of course you also replace cylinders, which is whole another story...
Secondly, when the drum does not want to fit (and you are sure you've got the right shoes
), you should squeze the shoes together with two screwdrivers - put them against the backplate and put gentle force (so that you don't break the "brake/traction material") on the shoes to move them closer to the center. Remember the shoes have the "self adjuster" (don't know if that's the correct English term for this, but you should know what I mean, the stuff with the spring), which can move quite a bit. And that should work. Once you put everything back together and start using the brake, the "self adjuster" will move the shoes back into the optimal position.Sorry for perhaps stating the obvious, but some poeple have no clue about this (even experienced machanics, I kid you not).
Cheers,
Wojtek
i put a plastic tie wrap around the callipers to stop them expanding but that flew off in the struggle to get the springs back on!:bang:
OP
OP
I get it now, thanks guys, I sould be able to stick it on tonight, the rears are all new completely.
Liam
Liam
OP
OP
Little bit of persuation (sp???) with a screw driver and the drums went on fine, once I've bled the brakes I reckon it will stop like a touring car, going to be real careful.
Liam
Liam
bloomfieldliam said:
One more step to do before it stops like a touring car, bed them in properly.
Oh, and another thing, fit an automatic butter knife to the 'A' pillar, to remove your eyeballs from the screen when it does stop like a touring car.
Cheers
D
OP
OP
rallycinq said:
Yeah will do, currently doing 140 miles a day so the bedding in will be quick to say the least.
A big thanks to all on this thread for useful advice and tips
Liam
All I can say is respect for fitting the stainless rears I have a set still sat waiting fitment.. in fact think i have fronts too.
project-cinqy
Member
Just overhauled the drums on ours today. Glad I had a fitting kit, as the retainer clips crumbled into a small rusty heap as I removed them!!!! It took a fair bit of fannying around to get the shoes lined up so I could get the drums back on, and the drivers side handbrake arm is knacked. How much are they, any ideas?
Jon.
Jon.
OP
OP
I think the arms are £24.
The rears are a bit of a pain since you have to drop the tank but if you can get the car as high as possible then it helps loads.
Liam
The rears are a bit of a pain since you have to drop the tank but if you can get the car as high as possible then it helps loads.
Liam
project-cinqy
Member
I mean the little levers that push the shoes against the drum when you pull up on the handbrake!!! One is ok, but the other is almost toally seized. Think I might make my own tbh. Can make them serviceable if I'm careful. will have to post my design when I'm done.
Jon.
Jon.
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project-cinqy
Member
cor, £15? thats a bit steep!!! Defo make my own, will be cheaper.
Jon.
Jon.
project-cinqy said:
Cheaper yet to unsieze the siezed one(s). WD 40, coppaslip and a big mallet.
Unless you're making them out of marine grade (604?) stainless throughout, I doubt if homemade will last any longer.
project-cinqy
Member
My plan is 2.5mm s/s plate, with a pin and circlip. That way they can be dismantled and greased, and being s/s they should last a bit longer.
Jon.
Jon.
Be very careful with stainless. It becomes brittle when worked.
Cheers
D
Cheers
D
project-cinqy said:
Good man.
I'd make the pin and circlip stainless to be on the safe side, but it should do the job -- maybe even use a W clip or whatever they're called to make dismantling/assembly easier -- part of the problem with seized ones is getting the damn thing out, and part of the problem with your design may be getting it in! Here, there's no need to worry about work hardening, as there is no -- real -- safely issue and although work hardening does occur, I've yet to experience stainless in an automotive use where it has created problems.
I was concerned that the bracket may flex slightly during application. I know the risk is only slight, but it is a saftey related part, and I wouldn't fancy it failing.
Not every one understands that stainless is not the cure for all evils.
Cheers
D
Not every one understands that stainless is not the cure for all evils.
Cheers
D
rallycinq said:
I recon that it'll flex a little (at 2.5mm -- 3mm might be better) but that if it fails it'll be on initial application, so no real problem unless it fails when being used as a back up brake, in which case you're dead anyway!
OP
OP
project-cinqy said:
£24 is the price of the lever/arms whatever you call them, you can buy them individually if needed.
Liam
