Technical problem with the brakes on the seicento sx

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Technical problem with the brakes on the seicento sx

¿Tuviste suerte con el sistema de frenos? ¿Suena muy extraño? ¡Bonito volante!
¿Tuviste suerte con el sistema de frenos? ¿Suena muy extraño? ¡Bonito volante!
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At the moment I have taken it out of that workshop, I have brought it home. It has arrived but it hardly stops. We purged it with the mechanic and nothing. Wheel by wheel again.
Now it's time to change the battery, it has been damaged for so many months and then take it to another place to see if they know how to repair it. At least it's clean now.
 
Well, after changing mechanic shops, they also have problems getting it right. They take the servo and the brake pump to a specialist to check and everything is correct. The car brakes and if you press hard, it locks, but the pedal goes down quite a bit. The brake distributors were also checked and are fine. We will continue like this until we see what happens in the annual inspection (Spanish ITV) if it passes the braking test correctly.
New pads, new rear shoes, everything checked, has anyone had brake problems? At least I'm glad it's back in circulation.
 
Well, after changing mechanic shops, they also have problems getting it right. They take the servo and the brake pump to a specialist to check and everything is correct. The car brakes and if you press hard, it locks, but the pedal goes down quite a bit. The brake distributors were also checked and are fine. We will continue like this until we see what happens in the annual inspection (Spanish ITV) if it passes the braking test correctly.
New pads, new rear shoes, everything checked, has anyone had brake problems? At least I'm glad it's back in circulation.
Six months off road eh!
You may find with use the new shoes and brake pads etc may bed in and brakes improve hopefully.:)
 
Six months off road eh!
You may find with use the new shoes and brake pads etc may bed in and brakes improve hopefully.:)
I didn't remember how small it was! after using the fiat 500 these months. It could be that with use it would be a little better.
 
Finally the car is repaired, the braking problem has been solved. It was the brake pump. It is very strange after they have tried 4 different ones, original, two new replacements and another occasion. Now 5 works. But the car has been to different mechanics.
 
Finally the car is repaired, the braking problem has been solved. It was the brake pump. It is very strange after they have tried 4 different ones, original, two new replacements and another occasion. Now 5 works. But the car has been to different mechanics.
Does sound like the first mechanics need to go back to school!
I do note the cure was the brake master cylinder/pump, something I mentioned in my first reply to your problem on May the 18th.
"Sometimes an old master cylinder will fail when bleeding, but unless all your replacement master cylinders were dodgy that shouldn't be the answer."
I know no one loves a "know all" but sometimes 55 + years of experience does count for something.;););)
 
Maybe the garage where waiting for the owner to get fed up and scrap the car, when they might offer to buy it from the owner...
They will often suspect that the owner will get fed up with spending money as not all owners 'value' their old Fiats as enthusiasts do..
 
Hello again, I went to pass the MOT (annual technical inspection) and it did not pass emissions. I take it to the workshop (second workshop) they change coils, spark plugs and put injector cleaners and pre-inspection fluid and they tell me that it is ready. The next day the engine light flashed fixed.... Since I had to pass it within 15 days, I covered it up and went to the inspection, but it also stopped. Now I have bought a new catalyst. I hope that's it. This fiat doesn't want to circulate again!
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Hi, sorry to hear you are still having trouble with the car. Before the test did you allow the ecu to properly learn after the battery was low or flat?

Before an inspection the car should be 'driven well' after allowing the engine to idle for at least 15 minutes. The ecu learns how to use the correct amount of fuel etc. The engine light could of course mean the CAT or one of the lambda sensors is faulty. If you cannot remove the old sensos due to being seized, you may have to replace these also. A cheap OBD2 code reader will help you understand why the engine warning light is on.

Main tip to remove the old CAT is heat up the centre exhaust with a map gas blow torch (yellow tank) to allow the pipe to seperate. Bumper removed and the radiator can be removed easily. If the radiator hasnt been replaced then I would also consider replacing it, they are not expensive.

How do you mean the car stopped? This might be a sign of lambda sensor making engine flood with too much fuel?
 
Please read ecu code to find out why mil (ecu warning light)is on. You could be wasting your time trying to pass inspection until fixing why mil is on
 
Gravity purging is usually only necessary when you have a weak master cylinder and according to your thread you are on your third one including two new ones, also you say the vehicle has been bled several times with no bubbles coming out, so if there is no air in the system that would indicate loss is at the wheels which is why I suggested trying four brake hose clamps to see if that give a good pedal and to track were the problem is located.
You said it here. Weak master cylinder. Our Seat is a pain and these cars never had a decent pedal feel as the master is poor. I have Gunsons Easi Bleed. It uses a bottle pressurized form a tyre to both keep the reservoir full and pressurise the system from above. Its a bit faffy but makes the job work and allows some vigorous pedal shoving to get the air out. Worth gooogling as there must be one out there somewhere. Mine cost £12 albeit 15 years back. Use a one way valve on the bleed pipe or keep the bleed tube under fluid to stop air being drawn back. Close the bleed nipple every pedal stroke, as the pedal approaches the floor and you should get this. If not get a new master cylinder
 
Good morning, the car works correctly. I have an obd2 installed and it doesn't fail. Before there were injector problems and the light stayed fixed, I tried another injector rail and the same thing. The flashing light came on when you stomped, then went off. We tried two more different probes from another car and everything was the same. Now there is no injector failure (liquid cleaning?)
new coils, spark plugs, wires... it has to be the cat. Exhaust is new.
During technical inspection it was warming up for some time before measurement.
 
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This error no longer appears. It's been there for years but the car runs well and since everything has been changed, I didn't give it any more importance. Now it doesn't come out. Before, on a daily basis, it doesn't matter which injector ramp you use. That made the light stay on and then with obd2 I erased it. Not now. Only flashing light that according to the manual is a catalyst. I won't touch the brakes at the moment until I pass the inspection.
radiator is new. Practically the entire car is renewed and it has 125,000 km for just one user. But it has new shock absorbers, new engine mounts.... shame about these failures.
 
Good news then. A nice new catalytic converter will not hurt as they are getting old now and can collapse/block inside.

The missfire was likely coils or leads. I thought Cat/O2 sensor faults did show up on the code readers though?

A friend recently pointed out that my 22yr old Fiat Seicento has well exceeded it's 'design lifespan'. You should have a nice car when it's done. (y)
 
Good news then. A nice new catalytic converter will not hurt as they are getting old now and can collapse/block inside.

The missfire was likely coils or leads. I thought Cat/O2 sensor faults did show up on the code readers though?

A friend recently pointed out that my 22yr old Fiat Seicento has well exceeded it's 'design lifespan'. You should have a nice car when it's done. (y)
Good morning, we still have problems. Changed the catalytic converter with a new one, the engine light continues to flash. I have used a co2 machine (amateur) and it continues to stop. I don't know what it could be anymore. Probes give MOT values well.
 
Good morning, we still have problems. Changed the catalytic converter with a new one, the engine light continues to flash. I have used a co2 machine (amateur) and it continues to stop. I don't know what it could be anymore. Probes give MOT values well.
If there is a leak where the exhaust maifold/catalytic converter is fitted to engine then oxygen can enter exhaust and make the car overfuel, flooding the engine. This is one of the only things that will make the engine stall in my experience.

The labda sensors can fail - have they been replaced?

Also are the two lambda sensors connected to the correct plugs?

Also check HT leads are not failing (look in the dark for sparks escaping)

Lastly - have you left the ecu disconnected overnight to reset then see if warning light turns off? You should leave the car to idle for 10-15 minutes after reconnecting.

The flashing light could be indicating an engine missfire - according to other posts. Worth investing in a cheap OBD2 reader for these occasions.

Interesting - my 2001 Seicento has recently got engine light on steady (not flashing) and its fault code was Cat/lambda sensor failed. At recent emissions test it passed and was running fine! I reset the light with OBD2 and it came back on after 5 miles. I have recently had it all apart and wish i had fittted a new Cat!
 
Do you mean the car is still failing MOT on emissions readings? If so do you have a print out of the failure sheet giving values and what gases and what the pass values would be in your testing area in Spain?
 
Post a picture of the warning light that is flashing-i have a feeling it may be a catalyst overheat warning
If it is catalyst over heat warning light and it's flashing all the time , even when engine cold then it's a faulty warning system.
 
¿Quiere decir que el automóvil todavía no pasa la inspección técnica en las lecturas de emisiones? Si es así, ¿tiene una copia impresa de la hoja de fallas que indique los valores, qué gases y cuáles serían los valores de aprobación en su área de prueba en España?


primera inspección técnica
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segunda Mot Parece que las sondas han cambiado valores de una inspección a otra. Ellos son iguales.
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Aún no he pasado 3 ITV porque falla la luz intermitente... No hay ningún fallo en la máquina.
Publique una imagen de la luz de advertencia que parpadea. Tengo la sensación de que puede ser una advertencia de sobrecalentamiento del catalizador.
Si es una luz de advertencia de sobrecalentamiento del catalizador y parpadea todo el tiempo, incluso cuando el motor está frío, entonces es un sistema de advertencia defectuoso.
 
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