Technical Bigger battery?

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Technical Bigger battery?

Danoid

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A few years ago the factory battery died, so I went out and bought a a Bosch 042 battery to get it going again.

Last few starts in this cold weather it’s really struggled to start, so I’m thinking battery might be dying.

I just looked again and noticed the battery tray is bigger than the battery I’ve got now.

I checked Varta as I like their stuff and have that on my own cars, looking at their website they list a 042 again but they also list EFB and AGM, I’ve not looked into the actual size but could either EFB or AGM work fine? The Fiat is a 1.2 2009 (no stop/start, no a/c)

I’m also thinking a slightly bigger battery might solve the issue where revs drop when idle and turning lights on, use electric Windows, blower etc

Thanks
 
Looking at the varta EFB and AGM their both 242mm wide and doesn’t look like that will fit, so hopefully someone can recommend something else, unless it does fit?
 
First have you replaced the engine earth strap?

Next measure the tray width, think the standard battery is 44ah there's a 52ah Varta and you might get a 60ah in, that said our standard 44ah cranks the car fine.
I changed the earth strap for a negative battery cable this year or last year, made bugger all difference tbh but I know that’s sound for sure :D
 
I put a Budget brand AGM on our 500

Same fitment as Panda and Punto.
027 size S.S suitable
@£94 and 5 year Warranty

Supplied by Tayna.. next day delivery

LOTS of power compared to the 4 year old FIAT battery that I 'cascaded' down my fleet (y)
Have you got a link to the battery you used?
 
I've just been down this road with our 2010 1.2 Panda. Go to the Halfords website and put in your reg No. For our Panda this brought up three options. Two "standard" and one rather larger. I went for the larger Yuasa HSB 012 which is a 54Ah capacity with 500 amps cold cranking and has transformed the old girl's starting performance. If you have a Halfords trade card the discount is considerable and makes buying from them well worth while, or, if you haven't, on line battery specialists like Tayna and others give good money off. I mention Tayna because forum members have bought from them and report good experiences. I did actually ring them with a few questions about shipping and how well the battery is packed and handled by their shippers and I was impressed by their whole approach. If I didn't have my Halfords card I would have bought from them.It's worth knowing that modern batteries have seals in the breathers so they, in theory, can't leak if turned upside down. The Yuasa I bought from Halfords still had one of these in place - apparently they remove one once it's received at the branch to stop excess internal pressure building up whilst it's awaiting a purchaser. The remaining seal plug took quite a determined effort to remove it and I don't think it would have leaked.

If you want to read about my battery problems then you can go here: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/2010-panda-1-2-clock-zeroing.492222/ It does ramble on a bit but if you start reading around half way through page 3 that's where the more current (Ha Ha!) stuff starts. Other forum members contributed some very useful info.
 
Pretty sure this would fit its 40mm wider so check 520cca but not as tall














Or this one that's the same width and height but again wider by 40mm and only 480cca

 
The battery I have now is the Bosch S4 and cca is 420, so the others listed here are more which is good.

To be honest I need to take the car on a nice long drive as it’s not been on one for a good few years, if no good at the next cold snap I’ll have to get a new one

Thanks everyone
 
I am thinking of getting a ctek charger as it goes.

With my own car (not 500) I can’t put the charger on the positive and negative (has to be earth chassis for negative), I guess the 500 isn’t picky about this?
 
No issues using a ctek or similar on any of our 500s/Panda/Abarth over the years, straight to the battery terminals. I've not bought a battery for one yet.

I have an optimate and my summer toy sits connected in the garage all winter with no issues.

+1 for Tayna. I haven't bought a battery elsewhere for some years and can confirm their packaging is exemplary 👍
 
I am thinking of getting a ctek charger as it goes.

With my own car (not 500) I can’t put the charger on the positive and negative (has to be earth chassis for negative), I guess the 500 isn’t picky about this?
Making connections directly to both battery terminals really depends on whether your vehicle has a battery condition monitor or not. It can usually be seen as a wee addition to the negative terminal clamp. However it's pretty safe to say that if your car has stop/start then it'll have a battery condition monitor.

And what does this mean for us? Well the monitor needs to be able to "see" what's going on by way of current/voltage in and out of the battery. So, if you have a Monitor then the negative lead from your charger should be connected to a chassis/body earth, not directly to the battery terminal, so the monitor can experience any electrical activity. Having "messed about" with this sort of stuff for years - and I'm not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination - I think that if all you're doing is topping up a fairly well charged battery then you'll likely get away with connecting to that negative battery terminal. But, if the battery is rather more discharged then, if you don't connect the neg charger lead to an engine/chassis earth, when you disconnect the charger, the monitor, poor wee dumb thing that it is, can get "confused" and that can be a very bad thing because many alternators now have very complicated charging programs which are controlled by an ECU - long gone are the days of good old style regulators. The outcome can be that because the ECU is perhaps being wrongly supplied with battery condition info it will command inappropriate charging of the battery and you can end up with an undercharging or overcharging system. Undercharging is inconvenient, overcharging can be catastrophic. So why take the chance is my thinking.

Things get even more exciting if you're jump starting. Personally I don't jump from one vehicle to another. Done right it can work without any problems but, get it wrong, and you'll wish you hadn't in the biggest possible way! - you may need very deep pockets! I'm happy to jump start using a slave battery or jump pack but negative lead is always connected to engine block or other robust earth point. Having said that, although I feel confident doing it I will now-a-days only help family members and people I know well, and I always talk them through the possibility that something catastrophic just might go wrong. I just don't want the possible hassle of upsetting strangers or making enemies of neighbours.

I have a Ctek and I'm happy to charge with the battery still connected to the vehicle. Been doing this for a number of years now on several of the "family fleet" and had no problems. Charger positive to battery positive, charger negative to vehicle earth point NOT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.
 
By the way, having mentioned jump starting above, can I reinforce the age old advice to never make your final connection to the battery terminal direct. So, your connections are, positive terminal on the "good" battery connected to the positive terminal on the discharged battery (usually this jump lead is red coloured) then Negative terminal on the "good" battery connected to a robust earth on the vehicle with the discharged battery (black jump lead). I find a nice big bolt or casting lug on engine or gearbox works well but a main earthing point on the chassis can work well too. I wouldn't connect to something like an alternator casing and avoid the possibility of accidental contact with sensors etc. It used to be that this advice was given to avoid any possibility of a spark on the negative battery terminal igniting potentially explosive battery gasses - and that still hold to this day, although modern "sealed" batteries gas much less and contain these gasses better. Today though it's this problem with battery monitoring systems which is the main reason.
 
I have installed the Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 560 901 068 that you asked if it will fit further up. It fits nicely in my battery tray. Mine is a 2014 Fiat 500S with stop start (always switched off) but DRLs and Headlights always on day and night. No issues since installation in January (11 months).
 

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By the way, having mentioned jump starting above, can I reinforce the age old advice to never make your final connection to the battery terminal direct. So, your connections are, positive terminal on the "good" battery connected to the positive terminal on the discharged battery (usually this jump lead is red coloured) then Negative terminal on the "good" battery connected to a robust earth on the vehicle with the discharged battery (black jump lead). I find a nice big bolt or casting lug on engine or gearbox works well but a main earthing point on the chassis can work well too. I wouldn't connect to something like an alternator casing and avoid the possibility of accidental contact with sensors etc. It used to be that this advice was given to avoid any possibility of a spark on the negative battery terminal igniting potentially explosive battery gasses - and that still hold to this day, although modern "sealed" batteries gas much less and contain these gasses better. Today though it's this problem with battery monitoring systems which is the main reason.
Some 500s (post 2016 I think, since my 2013 Pop doesn't) have a false negative post that is recommended as the charging and jumping negative.

For batteries, lookup what battery the biggest engine in the range has, and it'll likely be bigger than yours and still fit. 1.4 benzina or 1.3 diesel will likely deploy a bigger battery than a 1.2, for instance. Failing that, just take a tape measure down to the Big H. and find the biggest battery that will fit into your tray, as long as the terminal layout is the same.

Obviously with the calcium and the Stop/Start technology batteries now common-place, make sure that what you buy at least matches the technical spec' of your standard battery.



Ralf S.
 
The Yuasa Silver HSB012 is more than powerful enough and a very reasonable price at Tanya Batteries or Halfords if you have a trade card.

If you want to retain the stop-start, then costs will double. You can buy a lot of petrol with the price difference.
 
The Yuasa Silver HSB012 is more than powerful enough and a very reasonable price at Tanya Batteries or Halfords if you have a trade card.

If you want to retain the stop-start, then costs will double. You can buy a lot of petrol with the price difference.
Hi Dave, hope you had a nice Christmas. I completely agree with you, having just bought one, that the Yuasa Silver HSB012 is a great battery for the Panda. Literally dropped straight into our 2012 169 1.2 Eco Dynamic, and I can strongly recommend one.

I'm just a little bit "worried" by the implication of your second sentence which implies, unless I misunderstand, that you can use a standard wet flooded cell battery in a stop start car? Of course, yes, physically it will be possible to do this and, yes, the stop start function will very quickly fail - if indeed it ever works at all. However, as I understand correctly, that's going to be the least of your problems. Many stop/start systems do much more than simply monitor the state of charge of the battery and then make a decission as to whether to permit it's activation - only allowing it's use if the battery is in a good state of charge. Trouble is a standard "wet" battery can't respond to the constant, high amperage, discharge/charge cycling which stop/start imposes and not just that but many stop start systems, because their alternators are controlled by an ECU, not the old regulators of times gone by, employ "smart charging" where charging - and so energy required by the alternator - is cut to a minimum when accelerating and boosted to very high charge rates when decelerating thus using the free energy which would normally be wasted by braking. These sort of charge rates and constant cycling between heavy charge and discharge current flows is said to be capable of destroying an incorrectly spec'd new battery within months of fitting. There's a lot more going on and I'm sure I don't know the half of it. As I understand it the old wet type batteries can really only be fitted to vehicles without stop start. I do find myself wondering if you could simply unplug the negative post battery sensor and then get away with using an older type battery on a modern vehicle, but I suspect it wouldn't like it and turn on a load of dashboard lights by way of complaint?

So the general rule of thumb is that if it's stop/start then you must fit an Enhanced Flooded Battery or Glass Mat and if it's got a glass mat as standard then you'd be foolish to go with an EFB. Not got stop/start? like our Panda, then you'll be fine with any of them including the old "wet" type but I think Glass matt might be a bit too extravagant to be justifiable. I see some of the manufacturers recommending EFB as an "upgrade" This on the Varta website might interest?
Oh. and remember, some stop/start systems need to "recognize" when a new battery has been fitted which may require a coding operation to be carried out by the dealer or someone with a suitable scanner. This is because as batteries age they accept charge differently to when new so the "smart" charging system slowly alters the charging rate as the battery ages and this needs to be reset when a new battery is fitted. The insidious thing here is that the aging battery needs a bigger "boot up the backside" to accept charge so the ECU gently increases charge rate as the battery ages. It, the ECU, doesn't know when you fit a new battery so, unless you reset the system, it then charges the new battery at much to high a current rate and this will cause damage to the new battery which will fail prematurely, many report within a year of fitting.
 
My suggestion was that this battery IS NOT suitable for a stop-start car. However, if you don't care about the feature, it would probably work just fine. The need to reset the charging regime is worrying. It looks like yet another pile of technology the offers nothing useful to the end user, but pays the dealers very cicely indeed.

Maybe MES can do the job which would be nice.
 
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