General ABS warning light

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General ABS warning light

tonyn

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I was changing the nearside front shock on my 2004 1.2 Dynamic and as it was getting dark,I manage to crimp the feed wire to the ABS sensor behind the head of one of the shocker retaining bolts.
I thought i may have got away with it as there didnt appear to be any broken or damaged wires.
Not so.
When I fired up after putting everthing back together, I now have the ABS warning light illuminated on the dash.
My question is this, How much of a job is it to swap the sensor and will I have to plug in to Multiscan to put out the ABS light?
Thanks in advance
Tony
 
Changing a sensor is relatively easy. Look for the connector and disconnect. The sensor itself is usually held in with a 5mm Allen bolt. Getting the sensor out requires some serious wiggling.
Light should go out by itself after replacing the sensor. SRS (airbags and belts) light requires resetting.

gr J
 
If the light comes on when you start the car you can be pretty sure it's a sensor or the wiring leading to it.

If the light comes on after you have moved away, it's likely the magnetic track on the wheel bearing is not creating enough of a signal.
 
If the light comes on after you have moved away, it's likely the magnetic track on the wheel bearing is not creating enough of a signal.

On my Panda the ABS light comes on when I pass the 30 MPH, how can I check this magnetic track? Is there one track for wheel?
The ABS is working fine, I mean it works...
 
You will need to get more information from the ECU as it will probably show that one wheel is seen by the ABS as running slow.


Slow wheel can be the wrong tyre, mag track on bearing losing its magnetism or the sensor.

Rear hubs are so cheap and easy to replace it's almost worth doing them anyway. Front wheel bearings are a lot more trouble. They all have a magnetic disc attached to the bearing inner grease seal. Pulses from that are seen by the ABS sensor.
 
Slow wheel can be the wrong tyre, mag track on bearing losing its magnetism or the sensor.

Rear hubs are so cheap and easy to replace it's almost worth doing them anyway. Front wheel bearings are a lot more trouble. They all have a magnetic disc attached to the bearing inner grease seal. Pulses from that are seen by the ABS sensor.

ECU test are not cheap.
I just order a new battery and next week I will mount new Michelin X-ice tyres.
I will do a follow up about this issue ;);)
 
There is no point testing the ECU its doing it's job.

MultiECUScan and a Windows laptop will allow you to interrogate the fault codes.

Thank you Dave.
Where can I download the program? What else do I need? A cable? Is there a guide to use this MultiECUScan somewhere? What is it possible to do with it? Do you recommend it?
 
Slow wheel can be the wrong tyre, mag track on bearing losing its magnetism or the sensor.

Rear hubs are so cheap and easy to replace it's almost worth doing them anyway. Front wheel bearings are a lot more trouble. They all have a magnetic disc attached to the bearing inner grease seal. Pulses from that are seen by the ABS sensor.

Battery changed.
Wheels changed.
Tyres changed.

The ligth now just come on at a higher speed (60 mph), but not always, it does seem a really random issue.
Which hubs do you recommend? Original? SKF? Something else? I will change all 4 in the spring season
 
You "could" change all the wheel bearings at £30 a corner plus labour. Alternatively, MultiECUscan is free** and will tell you what's going on.

**Full function version is under £50 - still a bargain.
 
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