Technical 500 engine + bad advise

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Technical 500 engine + bad advise

Ok y’all engine changed at 500 italia in bury ... new rad new condenser picked it up yesterday ... when I got home I noticed coolant at min and a bit below when it cooled down so I topped up and bled as heard the water sound behind dash ... just been on motorway to my friends place and back & coolant back down to min again ... ? I’ve topped up twice since yesterday (between min & max both times) yet it keeps going back down to min ?? I’m at a loss I’ll ring the chap again tomorrow for advice but I have to say I’m at the point now where I’m ready to give up altogether no car is worth this stress!
I’d rather get the bloody bus!
 
Ok y’all engine changed at 500 italia in bury ... new rad new condenser picked it up yesterday ... when I got home I noticed coolant at min and a bit below when it cooled down so I topped up and bled as heard the water sound behind dash ... just been on motorway to my friends place and back & coolant back down to min again ... ? I’ve topped up twice since yesterday (between min & max both times) yet it keeps going back down to min ?? I’m at a loss I’ll ring the chap again tomorrow for advice but I have to say I’m at the point now where I’m ready to give up altogether no car is worth this stress!
I’d rather get the bloody bus!



Forgot to mention also I have to slam my bonnet shut to close it .. it won’t lock otherwise.. what gives??
 
Did the 500 Italia guy not check the whole stuff including test drive?
What part of the cooling system did they NOT change ? that should be the only place left where the problem is...
Bonnet can have different reasons - did they take it off completely for better acces and then not adjust well after re-assembly?
My boot needed slamming because of a valve cap hidden in the recess around the lock bracket that blocked the lock. Was hard to see hence took a while to find..
 
Did the 500 Italia guy not check the whole stuff including test drive?

What part of the cooling system did they NOT change ? that should be the only place left where the problem is...

Bonnet can have different reasons - did they take it off completely for better acces and then not adjust well after re-assembly?

My boot needed slamming because of a valve cap hidden in the recess around the lock bracket that blocked the lock. Was hard to see hence took a while to find..[/

He changed everything as far as I’m aware ... test drove it and seemed to be very thorough but obviously the test drive was not over 70mph and not a long enough drive to show up an issue!
My thoughts are leaning to the heater matrix .... [emoji37]
Must have had bonnet off for access though I’ve no idea about re alignment or how

Ugh I’m just ready to give up .. scrap the car and use public transport all this is doing nothing for my mental health if I’m honest!
 
Use a white tissue and dry off any water from the a.c. drain from the evaporator is the water anything but clear? You can smell if the heater matrix has failed got to the point of stinging my eyes when ours failed.
Are the carpets wet?
 
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I'm gutted for you; this is the last thing you need right now.

Given this car's history, the repairers should have double checked that all is now well with the cooling system before handing the car back to you. Needless to say, this needs sorting before you can use the car. Personally I'd be taking it back to 500 Italia.

They'd have removed the bonnet to give them the access they needed to take the engine out. This is just a matter of adjustment; if it fitted before they removed it, then it can be put back so that it fits again.

Frankly, given the positive reviews I've read about the guys who did the work, I'm disappointed that they returned it to you in this state.

I think this is going to be something frighteningly simple
Like a cracked pipe or a clip that needs pinching up.

Let's hope so, for @baglady 's sake.
 
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And Breeeeeath! :D


Have a look under the car, when it stops raining.. :D and look for any wet areas, leaks or drips. Coolant is pink and goes crystallised when it dries, so you can quite easily spot any leaks.

My guess is the system is just purging itself.. the amount it's "losing" would be pretty obvious under the car. So.... if you can't see any leaks, just keep an eye on the coolant level and top it up to just under MAX as needed.

I think it will suddenly stabilise when the car has moved all the air out (gurgly dash suggests there is still some air in there.. it'll come out when you use the car with some revs and the heater on MAX (red spots MAX, not fan speed MAX) - the hot coolant to the heater has to run uphill so it doesn't flow very strongly when you just idle the engine.

The bonnet shut is either they removed the bonnet (not too likely if they dropped the engine out from below...) or the valance (aka "slam") panel (since it;s the easiest way to get the exhaust manifold out. The latter has the bonnet latch in it, which is connected to the car via the release cable, so to remove the valance panel from the car, they would have disconnected the latch from the panel first.

It sounds like it just needs a bit of adjustment. The latch needs to be higher /closer to the "loop" on the bonnet. It's probably got slots rather than holes, so loosen the two (?) M6 nuts on the latch and see if you can physically raise it a couple of millimeters relative to the valance panel. Tighten it up and Roberto is your mother's brother.



Ralf S.
 
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And Breeeeeath! :D


Have a look under the car, when it stops raining.. :D and look for any wet areas, leaks or drips. Coolant is pink and goes crystallised when it dries, so you can quite easily spot any leaks.

My guess is the system is just purging itself.. the amount it's "losing" would be pretty obvious under the car. So.... if you can't see any leaks, just keep an eye on the coolant level and top it up to just under MAX as needed.

I think it will suddenly stabilise when the car has moved all the air out (gurgly dash suggests there is still some air in there.. it'll come out when you use the car with some revs and the heater on MAX (red spots MAX, not fan speed MAX) - the hot coolant to the heater has to run uphill so it doesn't flow very strongly when you just idle the engine.

The bonnet shut is either they removed the bonnet (not too likely if they dropped the engine out from below...) or the valance (aka "slam") panel (since it;s the easiest way to get the exhaust manifold out. The latter has the bonnet latch in it, which is connected to the car via the release cable, so to remove the valance panel from the car, they would have disconnected the latch from the panel first.

It sounds like it just needs a bit of adjustment. The latch needs to be higher /closer to the "loop" on the bonnet. It's probably got slots rather than holes, so loosen the two (?) M6 nuts on the latch and see if you can physically raise it a couple of millimeters relative to the valance panel. Tighten it up and Roberto is your mother's brother.



Ralf S.



Let’s hope so eh! No obvious wet on passenger side carpet I’ve got paper down too I’m slightly worried that the heater matrix could have a blockage? I told the guy I was worried about it due to Radweld but he obviously looked at it ...

I’ll keep topping up and see if rights itself I really hope so as I’m beginning to run out of steam with this car [emoji17] as for the bonnet I’ll have a look later see if I can sort it ?
 
The heater stopped gurgling before, so it can stop gurgling again. If it was a leaky matrix, you would have a wet and pink carpet by now.

If it's producing heat when you turn the temperature up, then the matrix is okay.

so I think it's just air.. the pipes to the heater are higher than the pipe out of the block (I'm more familiar with the 1108cc.. but it's the same family of engine) so hot coolant doesn't naturally flow into the heater... it needs help from the pump (i.e. some revs) and for the pipe where any air collects to be bled (though I've not seen a bleed screw on the missus' 1.2 yet).

I would check the level and then take it for a usual kind of motorway run that showed up your original problem.. that'll help it purge so the level should finally settle down.


Ralf S.
 
Do what I described earlier with the bleed screw. It must be just air. I’ve done so many of these from empty, the6 change a bigger to purge completely. As mentioned, a bit of throttle will help to push the coolant round and the gurgling will go.

The bonnet has clearly not been put back properly. I don’t see why they would have removed the bonnet catch. Does it line up properly with wings and bumper?
 
Do what I described earlier with the bleed screw. It must be just air. I’ve done so many of these from empty, the6 change a bigger to purge completely. As mentioned, a bit of throttle will help to push the coolant round and the gurgling will go.

The bonnet has clearly not been put back properly. I don’t see why they would have removed the bonnet catch. Does it line up properly with wings and bumper?



Yeah I’m hoping it’s just air had a word with him today gave me instructions so I’m on it I’m hoping the coolant will just level now the water sound has gone ? I’m a little paranoid when coolant is concerned after the last 3 months!

The bonnet lines up fine ... I neglected to mention the bonnet to him .. it’s got to be the catch .. had aircon re gassed at ats today the guy put grease on the catch but still the same .. I’ll look at it again tom I’ll have to look at catch on my other 500 see if it differs [emoji19]
 
The heater stopped gurgling before, so it can stop gurgling again. If it was a leaky matrix, you would have a wet and pink carpet by now.

If it's producing heat when you turn the temperature up, then the matrix is okay.

so I think it's just air.. the pipes to the heater are higher than the pipe out of the block (I'm more familiar with the 1108cc.. but it's the same family of engine) so hot coolant doesn't naturally flow into the heater... it needs help from the pump (i.e. some revs) and for the pipe where any air collects to be bled (though I've not seen a bleed screw on the missus' 1.2 yet).

I would check the level and then take it for a usual kind of motorway run that showed up your original problem.. that'll help it purge so the level should finally settle down.


Ralf S.



Looking like it could be just air! Off out later for a long drive with temp set to high ... hopefully it levels out .... I’m just paranoid [emoji23] it’s no wonder though I’ve had 3 months of coolant issues [emoji37]
 
The level will constantly drop as the water fills the air gaps.

As for the bonnet, there are 3 x 10mm bolts, there is movement side to side and up and down. Can be trial and error.



IMG_3147.JPGIMG_3146.JPG
Just had another look at bonnet from side ... does the gap look a bit too big or am I wrong?
 
Yes, they haven’t fitted it back properly. They are a pig to do. I hate replacing them.

It’s obviously not got bent hinges as no accident so looks like it needs some adjustment on the four hinge bolts on the underside of the bonnet.

How’s the fit at the front? I think it looks like it needs to move forward a bit.
 
Yes, they haven’t fitted it back properly. They are a pig to do. I hate replacing them.

It’s obviously not got bent hinges as no accident so looks like it needs some adjustment on the four hinge bolts on the underside of the bonnet.

How’s the fit at the front? I think it looks like it needs to move forward a bit.



Yeah bang on it’s only a little out .. but obviously that’s why it’s only locking with a slam [emoji37] on the upside just been on motorway! Coolant was at max ... it’s expanded a little over instead of disappearing [emoji846][emoji18][emoji846] I dare not say it.... but I’m feeling a lot better than last night!
 
In case anyone is wondering about the engine that came out of the car .... the mechanic at 500 italia said it was not even fit for scrap!!

He showed me (not that I know) but it was grotty!

Bad BAD sellers who I bought the car from I have nothing but bitter feelings .. and to whoever their mechanic is!!
 
Whenever I've needed to remove a bonnet to replace an engine, I've always marked the position of the hinges carefully before removal. It saves a lot of heartache later.

Yes, they haven’t fitted it back properly. They are a pig to do. I hate replacing them.

Refitting body panels is a black art; most large car dealers have one, usually ancient, fitter who understands the magic.

I once took delivery of a new high end German car and was sure the drivers door wasn't sitting quite right . The selling dealer told me to bring it in on Tuesday, 'cos it was a job for Bert, and that's when he'd be working at this branch. Tuesday arrived, Bert was duly summoned, and this wizened old gentleman with faded overalls and a rollup dangling from the corner of his mouth drove it into a hut at the back of the site and shut the door. The complimentary coffee machine had barely done its stuff when Bert reappeared, job done - and it was perfect (y).

I asked him what he did.

"You wouldn't want to know" was his reply. :rolleyes:.
 
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