Technical 4x4 Panda 2006 rear subframe

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Technical 4x4 Panda 2006 rear subframe

FiatFoster

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Hi all, I have a lovely little 2006 4x4 panda but I’ve recently discovered corrosion on part of the rear subframe. It will fail it’s MOT in Feb with this issue, but I’ve been quoted £2k just for the part and can’t find a second hand one anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas or contacts where I could potentially source one? I’ve considered welding but the garage says it’s a similar cost overall for repair due to having to take it off. Other than this and a leaking water pump the car is super and so I’m desperately trying not to let it be scrap, but I’ve got to weigh up the cost. Cheers and Happy Christmas!
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And a Happy Christmas to you too!

It's always sad to see a car go for scrap; but if the repair would cost more than the value of the car, it's hard to justify spending the money.

It's a great shame there are no aftermarket beams available for the 4x4 & 100HP; it wouldn't be that difficult for the existing suppliers to extend the range, and that could potentially save quite a few cars from this fate.
 
if you can do the majority of the work yourself, and the rest of the frame is solid.

drop the frame down and take it to a welder. There's about an hours work shouldn't cost more than £150

no doubt they turn up second hand. Couldn't see one at the moment though 50704590
 
The part number is 51857286

I doubt you'll find a decent used one in the UK but you might find a good used in Italy for a couple of hundred euros, but you'll need to pay for shipping and the fitting if you can't diy.
 
Unfortunately I think the rot in the subframes of these cars is what's going to kill quite a lot of them. :rolleyes:

I might have a look at mine when next it's on the ramp, to see how complex the subframe is, as I have a mandrel bender etc.
 
The rusted area is a bent steel tube which could be professionally patched (check them all as rust happens all over the place).
TIG weld is best to get good penetration and avoid distortion. Afterwards, make sure it's fully treated for rust inside and out.

I would suggest welding on a temporary strap to hold the ends in space then remove from the car and conduct a proper repair with new material. After blowing an alternator regulator, I always unplug the alternator, battery and ECUs before doing any arc welding on the car.

Item 1 (Part no 50704590) does not extend out to the wheels, so 169 and 312 probably use the same part. Item 2 will be different along with longer drive shafts.


naread.exe
 
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