Technical 2006 Fiat Panda - Kangarooing/dropping power when driving

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Technical 2006 Fiat Panda - Kangarooing/dropping power when driving

FiatPandaBlue

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Hello everyone,

I have been running my 2006 Fiat Panda (1.1) for around seven years, during which time it's been pretty faultless (only an easily remedied issue with the handbrake).

However, a few weeks ago, the car started to 'Kangaroo' or drop power momentarily when driving typically around 30-40 mph when I'm 3rd or 4th gear (it would happen in different gears and at different speeds but not as frequently). It was not dependent on whether I was accelerating and would happen both during acceleration and when travelling at a constant speed.

At first it was very intermittent, once or twice every couple of outings in the car (typically I drive a 25 mile round trip to work Monday to Friday). It got slightly worse, happening near enough every drive but only towards the end. However, the car didn't stall and there were no warning lights on the dashboard. I thought initially it might be something to do with a CV joint or something because the car idled fine and it didn't sound like it was misfiring. I took it to a mechanic friend who checked the CV joints out and also took it for a drive and didn't notice anything untoward (it didn't drop power during his test drive). He said the engine sounded like it was running fine, which I agree it was.

Fast forward a couple of weeks and I'm travelling home and sitting in traffic and all of a sudden the car starts badly kangarooing at all speeds in all gears, power coming and going. About half a mile from home the engine management light, battery light and oil light all erupt on the dash, and the car cuts out. I start it back up, no strange noises, its just idling, I go to pull off and it cuts out. Manage to get it to the side of the road and have it recovered.

Next morning I start it up, lights have gone of the dash and I take it for a little drive, no problems. After looking at google, one of the suggestions is HT leads. I have a quick tug at them to see if any are loose and the third one along from the driver's side seems to be moving a little too freely, so I buy a brand new set of HT leads thinking one of them has failed. Upon taking the air box off to fit them, I discover it's not the HT lead that's loose, it's the actual spark plug itself. I tighten the spark plug up and then order a new set to fit (last changed them about 5 years ago).

The car ran fine with the the old spark plug tightened and even better when I fitted the new ones. Nearly two weeks after I fitted the new spark plugs and HT leads, the issue has started again very intermittently. I have checked the new spark plugs are fitted correctly and are still tight, which they are.

It has begun lightly kangarooing again, with small power drops when driving around 30-40 mph in 3rd and 4th gear. Doesn't seem to be impacted by temperature of the engine, or whether it's under load or travelling at a constant speed. It runs spot on when idling, no misfiring or untoward noises. I'd say power feels slightly down, but it's not a quick car to begin with, so not really noticeable.

Does anybody have any ideas about what the issue might be?

Thanks
Mac
 
Yep

Unfortunately there's loads of causes

Fouled plugs if burning oil
Dirty MAP
Wiring issue
Crank sensor
Throttle body
Accelerator pedal if is flyby wire
Head Gasket
Faulty ground cable

And so on

"About half a mile from home the engine management light, battery light and oil light all erupt on the dash, and the car cuts out."

Did the lights come on first then the car cut out or the other way round


The normal starting place is to read the codes, Even if the light aren't on intermittent errors are logged

A good starting point is to remove the air filter box and take a picture down the throttle body, is there any white cream, if yes the MAP sensor will probably need cleaning

As soon as it's starts to kangaroo look at the rev counter if your car has one and see if it drops to zero, if it does it's probably a faulty crank sensor

If the codes come back as an ignition coil or injector fault it probably a wiring issue
 
Yep

Unfortunately there's loads of causes

Fouled plugs if burning oil
Dirty MAP
Wiring issue
Crank sensor
Throttle body
Accelerator pedal if is flyby wire
Head Gasket
Faulty ground cable

And so on

"About half a mile from home the engine management light, battery light and oil light all erupt on the dash, and the car cuts out."

Did the lights come on first then the car cut out or the other way round


The normal starting place is to read the codes, Even if the light aren't on intermittent errors are logged

A good starting point is to remove the air filter box and take a picture down the throttle body, is there any white cream, if yes the MAP sensor will probably need cleaning

As soon as it's starts to kangaroo look at the rev counter if your car has one and see if it drops to zero, if it does it's probably a faulty crank sensor

If the codes come back as an ignition coil or injector fault it probably a wiring issue
Thanks for your reply!

Seems I might potentially have a lot to check and rule out...

Firstly, the lights came on before the car cut out. Also, my Panda doesn't have an rev counter, so I'll struggle with checking if it might be the crank sensor.

When I removed the air filter box, I did have a look down into the throttle body. Whilst there is no white cream in there, I would say there is what looks like a very small amount of oil in it. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, so didn't really think about it further, but looking at your comment about the MAP sensor, I'm guessing it could be the cause. Would there be anyway to clean the throttle body/MAP Sensor without taking it/them off completely?

I have access to an OBD reader, so I will also check the car tonight for any codes.

Cheers
Mac
 
This is mine


Your might be on the other end of the black inlet manifold

There's no need to undo the electrical connector

IMG_20240128_203506.jpg
 
This is mine


Your might be on the other end of the black inlet manifold

There's no need to undo the electrical connector

View attachment 441069
Many thanks for replying and adding the helpful photograph!

I took the MAP sensor off this morning and there was a thin coating of oil on it, which I have now removed.

I took the car out for a small drive after putting back together and didn't feel any kangarooing or intermittent loss of power. The power still feels a bit flatter than usual, but as long as it runs I'm not too fussed about that.

I also managed to borrow and OBD reader, which showed a stored code of P0150 manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit. So it does appear to be an issue with the MAP sensor. Unsure if a new one is needed, but hopefully clearing the oil off will do the job.

Thanks for your help.
Mac
 
Is that a typo

P0105 is MAP
P0150 is a O2 on a V8 bank 2?

Stored codes aren't too diagnostic in themselves, you have to read them, make a note, clear them and see if they reappear or a related

If you have a smartphone it's
about a £5 and free software to read the code
 
Is that a typo

P0105 is MAP
P0150 is a O2 on a V8 bank 2?

Stored codes aren't too diagnostic in themselves, you have to read them, make a note, clear them and see if they reappear or a related

If you have a smartphone it's
about a £5 and free software to read the code
Hi

Yes, it was a typo. The code showing was P0105.

I have cleared it and will check to see if it comes back.

Thanks
Mac
 
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