Technical 100HP wont start no warning lights showing

[DaveMcT]

At the risk of being overly simplistic, a loosely fitting &/or corroded fuel pump connector? Removing and replacing it might just have been enough to get the current flowing again.

I've lost track of the number of computers I've 'fixed' by powering down, taking the cards out of their slots & replacing them.

I agree and TBH I'm pretty anal about protecting stuff from corrosion. The fuel pump wiring was dusty but surprisingly dry and no signs of metal worm. Saying that, some sound deadening mat around the pump top and under the seat would be a good move. The plastic pump access cover barely keeps the weather out.

To test the fuel pump I used some small spade terminals (just right for the larger contacts) and two core wire to connect to the battery +ve and earth via a chocolate block connector. The actual plug is open enough at the back to get a multimeter prod onto the terminals. It's very handy for checking power at ignition on.

I've pulled off the steering column bottom cover. The ignition switch all looks fine and neat really not what I hoped for. Rain has stopped any more play.

 

[DaveMcT]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the ignition switch into main systems. I'm not finding anything obviously wrong so need to work out what does what.

 

[varesecrazy]

How many miles on it..?

Decades ago I had the coin style contactor disc wear out.. a scrap yard replacement sorted it

 

[DaveMcT]

Its done 95,000. I take it you're suggesting replace the ignition switch?

Ive just had a look .Slotting the tops of those shear head bolts (holding steering lock to steering column) is going to be a pain in the...

 

[varesecrazy]

Depends..

Are the electrical contacts demountable?

 

[DaveMcT]

Depends..

Are the electrical contacts demountable?

I can unplug the connector block, but I can't see how the switch comes off the lock body.

 

[varesecrazy]

Ok

Well simplest here..

Get a replacement lock unit.. plug it in

If it runs reliably.. chisel off old lock and replace

 

[DaveMcT]

Ok

Well simplest here..

Get a replacement lock unit.. plug it in

If it runs reliably.. chisel off old lock and replace

I thought as much

The ferkin thing is now running fine, but just found this for £10
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IGNITION-LOCK-SWITCH-WIDE-PINS-FOR-FIAT-PANDA-MK2-03-12-PUNTO-99-11-SEICENTO-98/181976534851?hash=item2a5ea58f43:g:tkgAAOSwKlhdNYS3

 

[varesecrazy]

My disc swap was on a 1985 FIAT.. so things have moved on

Knew how to approach the job having helped my neighbour put his lock back together..

The person who had stripped it .. then parked it 15 miles away..

Weren't the 90's great..

Edit :

That disc contactor looks pretty similar

 

[DaveMcT]

I swapped the very reliable but rusty diesel Montego for a VW Sharan (Ford Galaxy with a different front grille), which turned out to be the most unreliable and unlucky car I have owned. It had all the bells and whistles but little if anything worked properly.

 

[jackwhoo]

Its done 95,000. I take it you're suggesting replace the ignition switch?

Ive just had a look .Slotting the tops of those shear head bolts (holding steering lock to steering column) is going to be a pain in the...

Post a picture please
Are the wires crimped / soldered to the switch?

 

[jackwhoo]

Never mind I looked at ebay item(-:

 

[koalar]

I can unplug the connector block, but I can't see how the switch comes off the lock body.

there's a cap that comes off First.

then the switch itself. Both have lugs that have to be pushed in with a small screwdriver. Very easy to break. Plus the far side isn't easy accessible

then everything falls apart.

I right pain to get them all lined up correctly. Has to be done by touch as there is no visibility


100x more tricky than the fan resistor. You could get lucky and it fits First time.


Cleaned mine with switch cleaner First but didn't help. So done the job twice. Then one extra removing one from the breakers.

At one point it would work perfectly but backwards :bang:


fiat use two different types. The thickness of the terminals are different. I used one from a Punto. Lucky as First one I took off was the correct type.


why are you messing about here you never had that problem here. Car worked after fixing the induced faults and then reseating the relays. Fuel pump relay would be where i would look. But was more likely just needed reseating

 

[DaveMcT]

The ignition switch is bog standard and clean. The two wiring connectors are crimped. I can't see inside the switch but have not yet tried to remove it from the lock.

 

[DaveMcT]

there's a cap that comes off First.

then the switch itself. Both have lugs that have to be pushed in with a small screwdriver. Very easy to break. Plus the far side isn't easy accessible

then everything falls apart.

I right pain to get them all lined up correctly. Has to be done by touch as there is no visibility

100x more tricky than the fan resistor. You could get lucky and it fits First time.

Cleaned mine with switch cleaner First but didn't help. So done the job twice. Then one extra removing one from the breakers.

At one point it would work perfectly but backwards :bang:

fiat use two different types. The thickness of the terminals are different. I used one from a Punto. Lucky as First one I took off was the correct type.

why are you messing about here you never had that problem here. Car worked after fixing the induced faults and then reseating the relays. Fuel pump relay would be where i would look. But was more likely just needed reseating

I agree. Hence not yet got the steering lock taken off the column.

The fuel pump was fine. It was not getting the 2 second pulse so I rigged up a direct supply but engine still refused to start.

I pulled every single fuse. They all looked OK and continuity tested OK.
I pulled every relay and tested with a 9V battery to trigger the switch with a test meter across switched contacts. All tested OK.

The car still refused to start.

I went back later to check which dash lights were on at MAR and it fired up bright as a new day. I still do not know why there was a problem.

 

[jackwhoo]

I agree. Hence not yet got the steering lock taken off the column.

The fuel pump was fine. It was not getting the 2 second pulse so I rigged up a direct supply but engine still refused to start.

I pulled every single fuse. They all looked OK and continuity tested OK.
I pulled every relay and tested with a 9V battery to trigger the switch with a test meter across switched contacts. All tested OK.

The car still refused to start.

I went back later to check which dash lights were on at MAR and it fired up bright as a new day. I still do not know why there was a problem.

Buy another ignition switch ,carry it in car,
If fault reappears plug new switch into loom, turn switch with a screwdriver gangsta style , if it fixes problem only then fit it to steering column.

 

[varesecrazy]

Buy another ignition switch ,carry it in car,
If fault reappears plug new switch into loom, turn switch with a screwdriver gangsta style , if it fixes problem only then fit it to steering column.

Or used its supplied key

 

[jackwhoo]

Or used its supplied key

The screwdriver is the correct key ,
I'm thinking just the electrical switch that is under the key bit.

Ha ha

 

[jackwhoo]

I don't think it's the ign switch anyway because check engine light came on ,it was powered up

 

[koalar]

they really aren't designed to be replaced separately. The chance of damaging the ignition barrels plastic casing can not be over stated.


All the ones I have seen faulty are the same fault. No starter spin but the headlights dim



normally you can work around them for a bit. One you have to turn the key very hard to its end stop. Two you switch on then wait for all the lights go out then wait a bit longer before you start it. Three you have to turn it hard to its end stop the very slowly release it pressure.