Technical 100hp radiator

[koalar]

I checked the number in the image, but it's not a genuine part number, right?

The part number on the box is a genuine Nissens part number not a fiat one, it's for the 1.1 and 1.2 with a separate expansion tank

It's known to work

The 1.3 multijet with Aircon radiator is also known to work and has the benefit of a wider core and increased capacity

Both will fit fine

 

[dikochan]

皆様、たくさんの有益な情報をありがとうございました。

 

[kaspy40]

Hello I have 1.3D Multijet radiator and having problem, when termostat opening the temperature gauge drops a little down and then stabilize after few minutes its normal? I replaced thermostat and its same problem I dont know if it was making this with original radiator too

 

[koalar]

Hello I have 1.3D Multijet radiator and having problem, when termostat opening the temperature gauge drops a little down and then stabilize after few minutes its normal? I replaced thermostat and its same problem I dont know if it was making this with original radiator too

Generally the temperature gauge should be rock steady in the centre of the gauge

It should be up to temperature within a couple of miles

There's a dead spot in the centre it takes quite a big temperature drop to even register

There are exceptions, You can make the gauge drop by turning the heater and fans on full while coasting for example

Symptoms sound more like the thermostat, is the temperature dropping when costing or going down hill

 

[irc]

My "old dog" 100hp does sometimes give a slight twitch when the thermostat opens. It may actually do it every time, but its really only enough to see if you're staring at it, not really enough to notice if just driving normally and not concentrating on the dash.

It has a standard 100hp radiator, and it has done it with the last 2 thermostats at least. No idea before that, as it wasn't mine then, but it has no history of cooling issues in the incredibly (in)complete history file.*
Needle is rock-steady once up to Temperature and coolant level does not change between services.

I've never noticed it on any of the other 100HPs I see regularly, but I rarely see them warming up from cold and I've never bothered to investigate further.

If it is a larger movement than "just a twitch" then it could well be a thermostat problem, or possibly air in the system, and if the needle "wanders" in normal driving then there is a problem that needs fixing.

* I met the previous owner last year, and scored the original spare key, handbook and service folder and a bunch of invoices. It was apparently well loved up until the lacquer started falling off in large sheets, at which point it seems to have suddenly switched to "bangernomics" servicing. Two years of bare-minimum servicing certainly explains the mix of good and bad points i found when I got it!

 

[kaspy40]

Thanks for reply i have there 3rd thermostat one original and second new.. How to properly bleed the system? I havent found the bleeding screw?

 

[koalar]

There's a one-way valve built in the thermostat

It should soon self bleed and only need the bleed screw opening on the radiator and topping up

Filling the system slowly will save a lot of bother latter on


Attached the official instructions

Bit missing from the bottom

Pump the accelerator gradually and regularly (every 30 seconds) to a speed of approximately 3000 rpm; this operation should be carried out until the fan comes on and goes off at least three times to remove the air from the system. - Then stop the engine. - After having left the engine to cool down, top up the fluid to the MAX level in the tank if necessary. The total amount of fluid introduced should correspond to at least that collected when the circuit was drained.

 

[koalar]

I havent found the bleeding screw?

 

[kaspy40]

View attachment 473299

Thanks !!!

 

[koalar]

I've never noticed it on any of the other 100HPs I see regularly, but I rarely see them warming up from cold and I've never bothered to investigate further.

Both the fuel and temperature gauges aren't directly driven from their respective sensors

Instead the body computer controls where to put the needles and are smoothed out probably to reduce customer complaints

Which is why they are normally rock steady in normal driving

I am not sure if this is the case if you just leave the car idling

Any slight difference in behaviour could be the software version, this is a educated guess and not based on evidence though