Technical 100HP Rear Axle Beam - rot

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Technical 100HP Rear Axle Beam - rot

original part number 51856918


best photos i could find that was differently out of the 100HP still not great
 

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Views of the stub axle brackets (with everything removed except the stub) showing 500, 100HP and 1.1/1.2. would be really good.

I will get pictures of the 100HP (disc) and the 500 (drum) showing hand brake and hydraulic lines. I no longer have the 169 drum brake axle.
 
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Its worth quoting this info here

100HP rear axle and brake.

The stub axle bolts to the axle swing arm bracket. The brake caliper bolts to the stub axle flange - NOT directly to the swing arm. Undo those four M10 high tensile bolts and the whole wheel/brake assembly will fall off the axle. Drum brake and disc brake use different stub axles

The bracket hiding behind the hand brake cable supports the hydraulic hard line to flexible hose connection. I replaced the whole line from the under body bracket to caliper with a 600mm long HEL braided hose (blue). It runs through the bracket protected with a grommet. I used a banjo fitting at the brake caliper. With hindsight, a straight male connector (and 2" longer line) would have been more convenient for brake servicing.

The hand brake cable does not rub on the hard line support bracket but a rubber sleeve could be added if it's a concern.

The red patches are exposed red oxide primer where the paint has not coped with life. I should have had the zinc metal spray finished with fishing boat epoxy paint.
 

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I have been a lurker on here for a while and some of the info has been very helpful. I have owned my 100HP for 12 years. It has failed it's MOT for rear axle excessively corroded. Picture attached.

So just resurrecting this thread and adding my info.

Been trying to find a replacement and finding the same issues as others. Found this thread, and pretty much everything has been covered.

Some from my investigations, the aftermarket axles cater for drum brakes and some say also Disc brake vehicle. The fixing of the drum or disc stub is the same fixing. The 2 issues I have established the cut out for the ABS sensor at the top for a disc vehicle, on the side for a drum vehicle, and the bracket for the brake flexible from axle to disc calliper. Some aftermarket axles do not even have a cut out for any ABS sensor.

On speaking with my local Fiat Dealer, Fiat no longer supply the rear axle, however would be over £1000 to purchase if they did have available

They have however confirmed, which seems to not agree with the evidence.

51856918 will fit all Panda's apart from 4x4 and 51856917 will fit all Panda's apart from 4x4.

But looking it does appear a drum braked vehicle there are differences., as highlighted. ABS sensor cut out and bracket for brake flexible. And then also aftermarket may not have the fixing for the ABS lead up the axle but you could just cable tie that.

Dimensionally all aftermarket axles will fit a 100HP, but you will have to modify to cater for the above.

I have contacted my MOT station and asked, if I can get the rear offside welded. They responded if it is professionally welded, they would consider that and allow a pass. So I am going down that route as I type this.

Suspension pan is being repaired and re-enforced, and hopefully this is acceptable for the MOT station.

It may be accepted for this year but need to get a replacement axle. My idea is source the best one, and probably run a flexible from the body all the way up the axle to the calliper, then just need to cut a hole in the plate for the ABS sensor.
IMG_3769.JPG


I hope this helps anyone else in this situation.
 
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It may be accepted for this year but need to get a replacement axle. My idea is source the best one, and probably run a flexible from the body all the way up the axle to the calliper, then just need to cut a hole in the plate for the ABS sensor.​

This is what I did with my (not too rusty) 100HP axle. I had it grit blasted and zinc metal sprayed for the princely sum of £80. A coat of epoxy over tho top would have ben worthwhile as I spent the cost on rattle and and primers.

600mm long braided lines are the best option at the back. They replace the steel line and two rubber hoses. Just make sure you have enough "loop" to remove the caliper. That what the economy rubber hose is for. I attached mine with P clips but zip ties would do the job. Yes sure to get four (at least) barrel grommets included when the lines are made-up.

Braking feels normal until you replace all four rubber hoses with braided.
 

It's pretty much the done thing to put a 500 rear in it. The track is 20mm wider than the panda but this being 10mm each side is barely noticable and doesn't really effect the performance in anyway. You may need to cut out a slot for the ABS sensor as well. Becomes obvious what you have to do when you have the old one off the car and side by side with the new one. Take to opportunity to fit some powerflex bushes too.
 
It's pretty much the done thing to put a 500 rear in it. The track is 20mm wider than the panda but this being 10mm each side is barely noticable and doesn't really effect the performance in anyway. You may need to cut out a slot for the ABS sensor as well. Becomes obvious what you have to do when you have the old one off the car and side by side with the new one. Take to opportunity to fit some powerflex bushes too.

The 500 axle works well with up to 165 wheels and tyres, maybe 175 but its absolutely too wide to take 195 wheels as used on 100HP. The axle is 25mm wider AT EACH SIDE - 50mm OVERALL.
 
putting a wider rear axle effects the handling, more understeer
effects your insurance premiums, normally around 20%
in wet weather the rears aren't following the dry line left from the fonts

when the Panda disc brake axles weren't available I can understand why you would fit a 500 axle

but the correct axle is now available at a reasonable price, and has been for a few years, dont understand the reluctance to use the correct part.
 
putting a wider rear axle effects the handling, more understeer
effects your insurance premiums, normally around 20%
in wet weather the rears aren't following the dry line left from the fonts

when the Panda disc brake axles weren't available I can understand why you would fit a 500 axle

but the correct axle is now available at a reasonable price, and has been for a few years, dont understand the reluctance to use the correct part.

You have that the wrong way round. I could draw you a picture showing the various forces in play including the spring effect caused by the flex of the axle and how that works back to the lateral loading of the tyres and how that plays out with varying values for μ at contact but i'm not sure it would make any difference to your opinion. Also, the newer replacement axles are made of a different steel and slightly thicker meaning they are stiffer. The change in track from the back wont change the actual line as it will still be parallel just outside this original track. Having had both fitted to my own car which I use on a track I can assure you that all of that is about as relevent to the performance as the colour of it is.

I fitted a 500 axle because a panda axle wasn't available at the time. If a proper disc axle is availalble at a reasonable cost of course thats what should be fitted unless you are going to take advantage of the various differences ive mentioned above. The axle I fitted was 20mm wider hub face to hub face. No idea why everyone else is saying 50mm because it's not what I found with mine however I have been through various other resources and found there are some who have had +20mm, some +45mm and some +50mm. Same applies though, 25mm extra on each side has pros and cons. Plenty of flapping on here about right, wrong, good and bad.

Also a lot of half arsed googled crap. Difficult to sift through it. I can understand why people get confused.

As for the insurance issue.... well I'm sure you do what you do for the best. I'm done here, it's like school yard with toys and I can't be bothered to play where everyone wants to be the alpha. Best of luck to you all.
 
The 500 axle is considerably wider than the 169 axle. I will measure my wife's rear 500 axle track and compare to the Multijet I recently bought (needs a cam chain).

Rad andling is MUCH better with the 500 axle and 500 rear springs. I would use that all day long. It wont fit the 100HP where there is not enough wheel arch space for the wider wheels and the wider axle.
 
Auto Data https://www.auto-data.net/en/fiat-panda-ii-169-1.2-mpi-60hp-6903
Panda 169 2003 to 2011 - Front track 1366mm - Rear Track 1357mm

Auto Data https://www.auto-data.net/en/fiat-500-1.2-8v-69hp-16748
2010 Fiat 500 1.2 8V (69 Hp) - Front track 1414 mm - Rear Track 1408 mm
Facelift versions 2015 onward - Front track 1413 mm - Rear Track 1407 mm (probably a rounding error)​

I have tried measuring the 2008 Mutijet and 2005 1.2 Dynamic (with its 2015 500 axle), but I cannot get an accurate figure with the wheels on. But the 500 axle is more than 40mm wider than the 169.
 
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