Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

[koalar]

It's fine for testing dry as is

Here in the UK where it rains a lot it would still be good for a few years or so without

If you plan to keep the car long term it would be worth protecting but it's get it sorted first

 

[RDM1]

I know but while we're at it and i have a can so why not

 

[koalar]

I know but while we're at it and i have a can so why not

If you have dielectric grease then go for it, but some greases and petroleum jelly are none conductive

You don't want to add an insulator between your nice clean conductive surfaces

 

[RDM1]

Sorry but the rest gonna have to stay for tomorrow it started raining before i could finish and the positive is also showing corrosion I'll finish it up as soon as i can and I'll unfold what's behind the electric tape when I'm done.

That's the grease i am using it should be conductive

 

[RDM1]

By the way i might have found the culprit:

The positive cable is of 2 wires one that is built in going straight to the starter and alternator (built in as in the positive terminal of the wire is the terminal clamp) and the other one that is fixed by the 10mm nut is feeding everything else, turns out there is some buildups in between the terminal and the wire's terminal which is probably why the system was reading alternator failure while it was working but now the rain started again so I'm going to have to keep it till tomorrow to continue furthermore.

 

[RDM1]

Praying that the electrical torment is over right now with this discovery

 

[koalar]

Sorry but the rest gonna have to stay for tomorrow it started raining before i could finish and the positive is also showing corrosion I'll finish it up as soon as i can and I'll unfold what's behind the electric tape when I'm done.

That's the grease i am using it should be conductive

None conductive

Usually its fine because when you clamp it down you get metal to metal contact

I have never had a problem in 40 years, until now I have a Suzuki alto here and it clamps to the gearbox very similar to the Panda, it's got some gunk on it, I have wired brushed it twice and it's still causing problems, it's fine all the way to cable eye, but not to the stud it's bolted to

Again I wouldn't be worried about using it but it's probably better to put it on after it's been clamped up

 

[RDM1]

But i have a small doubt about it because the dashboard consumes a lot of power and it never failed until the battery died

 

[RDM1]

Alright so good morning the issue was NOT resolved unfortunately so I'm waiting for more suggestions while i go and hook up the diagnostic tool

 

[RDM1]

Ok so hooked up the diagnostic and scanned everything after 1st crank got the phonic learn along the other one new and after the second crank i got both pairs in the pictures with voltage below bottom limit as new fault

 

[koalar]

The first two are because you have wiped every with the scan tool and they haven't relearnt as the car not running



Does live data while confirm the low battery voltage at the ECU

 

[jackwhoo]

This all I can see

View attachment 440301

Which doesn't look good

Rdm1 did you clean this connection to chassis or just the other end that connects to gearbox?

 

[RDM1]

Rdm1 did you clean this connection to chassis or just the other end that connects to gearbox?

Ot was cleaned before when i went under the car but went ahead and cleaned it again along with the ground to the gearbox and on the gearbox side it was torn when i bought the car so i went ahead and wrapped the braided wires around a bolt with a huge washer and tightened it very firmly to the gearbox so now you can say this section is clear and you can see the result in the photos i uploaded

 

[RDM1]

The first two are because you have wiped every with the scan tool and they haven't relearnt as the car not running



Does live data while confirm the low battery voltage at the ECU

View attachment 440390

Going to fetch my scan tool will tell you what happens

 

[RDM1]

That's the result

 

[RDM1]

Anyone sells a sledgehammer? I think it's more useful toward the car

 

[koalar]

Well that's not correct,

What's happening at the first dip

Is that ignion on?

 

[RDM1]

Yeah the whole line was ignition on than cranking for 3 seconds then ignition back on without closing it

 

[RDM1]

Not sure if this was when the selespeed pump activated for a little bit

 

[koalar]

Could be

Let's try again with nothing running in the back ground

There should be a sharp fall at the begining while the starter is stalled and it should recover as the engine starts to turn over

This is not what we have here