You can get OE from Shop4Parts.
Donate a couple of quid to this forum and get your discount code for 10% off, so that should be less than £60 a pair.
With OE you know they'll fit properly and be fit for the job.
As already written, steer clear of unbranded stuff.
The likes of KYB, Sachs and Monroe are OK budget/mid range items.
The top mounts are not overly reported to fail on these, so it's up to you if you replace them.
Again, probably not wise to bin the originals if they appear ok and fit cheap ones.
A couple of notes on replacing front shocks.
You need spring compressors to remove the spring from the shock and even with a decent set it's a nervous job.
It's probably less hassle to remove the struts from the car and take them to a local garage to swap the springs over.
If you are going to diy, only use good quailty compressors and point the top ends facing away from you when handling/undoing the top nut.
I didn't one time and have a permanent scar on my face because of it!
The two bolts and nuts that attach the the lower strut to the hub knuckle will no doubt be cruddy and rusty.
Soak them up a few days before with penertrating oil and wire brush all the crud out of the bolts protruding threads, this saves trying to drag the rust back through the nut.
They can be tough to shift as the bolt threads and nuts are designed not to shake or rattle loose, cheap sockets that don't fit well will round off the nuts or bolt heads.
Take a pic of which way around each top mount is fitted through the inner wing.
There's a rubber nipple on the mount and small two holes through the inner wing, record which hole the nipple fits each side and refit the same way around.
The droplinks can also be a pain to remove due to crud and rust and the fact the balljoint will spin in the socket.
More often than not you can hold the shaft with an allen key in the end of the shaft, but the allen key hole in the end can strip while you are trying to hold it and undo the rusty nuts.
Lately I've never bothered with trying to undo them, I just grind them off.
But you can often get an open ended spanner down the back if there's a flat on the shaft just under the end of the rubber boots, this holds the ball joints shaft.
If not, a tight pair of grips on the ball joint (over the rubber boot part) should hold it while you undo.
