Louie Bee said:

Was thinking of the hex plug (hex bit / Alan key) that's above the strainer on some TA

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Goudrons said:

Well I had my filter out for a check.
It wasn't anywhere near as bad as the one above, but then again my engine only has 18K on it and oil is changed every 7500 miles.

It's not that hard to get at, it's obvious by where and how it's fitted it is meant to be accessed.

Tools.
10mm socket and a small extension bar.
Some way of removing the cap in the cam cover, I used the extension bar of a 1/4 in socket set. (cam cover and filter cap are different on mine then the images I originally posted in the Ebay link)
15mm socket (fairly thin walled)
Magnet
Clic R pliers.



Remove the engine cover/airbox by flicking open the Clic R clip on the pipe to the turbo and undoing the three 10mm bolts (two on the cover and one on the air intake pipe to slam panel)



The cam cover and filter cap are different on mine to the ones I have seen on other images.
It appears to be some sort of hard plastic, along with the filter cap rather than the alloy one I've seen images of.



My cap has a large slot cut into it and has a couple of arrow markers stamped it to it that align with marks on the cover.




A 1/4 socket extension just fits into the slot and the cap opens by turning the cap 1/3 turn anti clockwise, it's not a screw fit, just a couple of tabs underneath holding it on, like a oil filler cap fitting.





Now the filter's head is exposed.




15mm thin walled socket is needed to fit in the hole and loosen it, it's not tight, just nipped up.
The body of the filter is alloy, but the centre (pressure relief valve?) is steel so a magnet will just about grab it to lift it out.



Dirty?
Not too bad, though there was quite a bit of gunk stuck up inside.




Cleaned, I used some carb cleaner, first squirted from out to inside to flush the gunk out the bottom.




Refitting is just working backward.
Screw the filter back in and refit the cap so the two arrows line up.

Make sure when you refit the engine cover/air box that you push the turbo pipe back in fully.
There is a small notch in the pipe that lines up with a bump in the stub on the aibox.

Clic R pliers are needed to fit the clip back in place.

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zippygav said:

Is there any way to tell if the valve is opening? Mine doesn't rattle for example, like a regular PCV valve would. Also, is there any other PCV valve on the 875 2cyl engine does anyone know? Thanks

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