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Old 27-07-2013   #16
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Re: Project Fallout

Never mind the mot this is definately going to need an SVA test!
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Old 27-07-2013   #17
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by Dragon Man View Post
MOT wont like the windscreen being covered lmao. i will however go with a fold down grill / windscreen cover and have it integrated into the roof rack so it folds under it.
thats the plan anyway. haha
Don't forget it needs to fold upwards as well so it can be used as a gun turret.

I was thinking the other day all the Peterborough stuff is well and good but by the time I've finished the car will weigh over a Ton. Even a SuperFire engine would have issues lugging that weight around. While it would be a cool build and look nasty the off road capability and general drive-ability of the car would be compromised.

Still my projects change direction more often than a woman would if Ikea sold shoes. I put the "pro" in crastonation.
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Old 27-07-2013   #18
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Re: Project Fallout

What year/reg is it John?
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Old 27-07-2013   #19
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Re: Project Fallout

yeah, weight was something I was worried about. and an engine upgrade is something I was planning to do. I am not sure I was going to use the original engine though. what I would like to do is go diesel and make an adaptor plate so it will mount to the 4x4 gearbox. i'd need help on that side though in the future :/

I think that this gear box has been reconditioned at some point in time. it is very corrosion free. all the boots have been changed but one is leaking guhh.

I was not thinking of making the external roll cadge out of thick steel, as I was not really planning to turn it into an off roader. i am going for visual more than off road ability.

you reckon it would need a SVA test VmanC? something i was trying to avoid tbh lmao

its a 1988 G reg. i have the vehicle reg from off the tax disc.
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Old 27-07-2013   #20
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Re: Project Fallout

You are correct with your method on repairing the rear sill, that is the only way to do it properly, especially with it that bad! Don't peel the outer sill up though, just cut it off, once you fold it, it will be hard to get it back into shape, easier to cut it off clean and then just weld it back on

Never seen or heard of rust like that on the rear chassis rails. Looks pretty bad but nothing that can't be fixed, although I think alot of people would consign it to scrap, good job you got it

If you want any help sorting out the sills, I am not far away and I know how it should all be after doing my Mk1 and Sisley
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Old 27-07-2013   #21
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by Dragon Man View Post
what I would like to do is go diesel and make an adaptor plate so it will mount to the 4x4 gearbox. i'd need help on that side though in the future
I know a man that can help you with that my friend, no bother :thumbup:
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Old 27-07-2013   #22
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Re: Project Fallout

Repairing leaf spring rails like that is simple compared to some jobs. In my MGB days I used to re-enforce rails with box section. An absolute must if you're going to put more power through the axle.

I'm going to look at the possibility of mounting my 4x4 axle on either a modified 2wd Panda (Omega) subframe or a four link set up to bin the cart springs. Looking at series LandRover to Defender conversions for a ball park idea.
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Old 27-07-2013   #23
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Re: Project Fallout

you'll need to repair the sills back to original condition other wise there is a very good chance you'll never get it through an MOT
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Old 27-07-2013   #24
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by AndyRKett View Post
you'll need to repair the sills back to original condition other wise there is a very good chance you'll never get it through an MOT
You could actually do what you like with them, aslong as there is no rot visible and they are solid when tapped with the MOT toffee hammer, then they will pass. So you could get away with tacking or gluing on some patches over the holes and covering them with underseal, the tester wont be able to see the non existent inner sill and all the rotten metal underneath.
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Old 27-07-2013   #25
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by VmanC View Post
Never mind the mot this is definately going to need an SVA test!

Actually youd be surprised. The rule of thumb is 60% of the original vehicle to retain it's original identity.
For the MoT you can do pretty much what you like so long as you aint got sharp, pointy, jaggedy bits. But...........

Not only would you need a supportive MoT tester you would also need to know the rule book inside out (It isn't hard mechanics can learn it) that is so the powers that be understand that you know what you are doing and not just taking the piss.
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Old 27-07-2013   #26
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Re: Project Fallout

Love the concept by the way. If I can help please ask.
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Old 28-07-2013   #27
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by panda1408 View Post
You could actually do what you like with them, aslong as there is no rot visible and they are solid when tapped with the MOT toffee hammer, then they will pass. So you could get away with tacking or gluing on some patches over the holes and covering them with underseal, the tester wont be able to see the non existent inner sill and all the rotten metal underneath.
No you really can't, repairs have to be seam welded the visibility of the rot is irrelevant its the integrity of the panel which they can assess just by tapping it, its quite easy to tell what's good metal and what's hidden rust with a tap
They can poke and prod as much as they like and if they're still not happy they can refuse to MOT the car heavy underseal can also be documented as an advisory. And structural areas need to conform to factory specs so cutting out rotten sills and replacing with 6 inch I beam although easily stronger than the original sill is still cause for fail as you've altered the structure.

I once heard a story about a carpenter who replaced the sills on his citroen with solid oak painted to match and easily stronger than a piece of 5mm steal the mot inspector picked it up by tapping didn't know what to do spoke to the owner to find out what was going on, spoke to VOSA to see what to do and was told to fail it as the metal sills that should be in place where basically non exsistant.

The mot inspectors have seen it all so you won't easily pull the wool over their eyes with glue and tack welds, they know what's metal and what's rust, and to be honest its almost impossible to weld on rust, and at the end of the day its your own safety your risking more than anyone else's
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Old 28-07-2013   #28
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Re: Project Fallout

so i guess making a shallow steel plate indent for an exhaust is shunned then.. hmm will have to work around that. :/

dont think i have ever tack welded.. maybe to hold something in place but i always end up seam welding.

man, wonder what the MOT guy would say if i told him i welded half a set of thick steel shelving into talon before i took him in.

reminds me actually.. i still have welds i need to grind down on talon's sills. i only went over them with hammerite too. totally forgot about them!
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Old 28-07-2013   #29
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Re: Project Fallout

Quote Originally Posted by AndyRKett View Post
No you really can't, repairs have to be seam welded the visibility of the rot is irrelevant its the integrity of the panel which they can assess just by tapping it, its quite easy to tell what's good metal and what's hidden rust with a tap
They can poke and prod as much as they like and if they're still not happy they can refuse to MOT
MOTers are no longer allowed to tap poke or prod, they are only allowed to look. If they can't see a part of your car because it's covered over with something they have to pass it as normal
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Old 28-07-2013   #30
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Re: Project Fallout

You should probably tell the mot inspection manual then

Quote Quote:
Having identified the important load bearing members and 'prescribed areas' on a vehicle, the tester should determine whether they are excessively corroded, firstly by visual inspection and then by finger/thumb pressure.

If necessary careful scraping or light tapping of the affected areas with the Corrosion Assessment Tool is permitted.

Excessively corroded metal, or metal treated with filler, emits a duller sound than does unaffected metal. It is not necessary to apply heavy impact blows or to use a sharp instrument to 'dig' at the structure.
And
Quote Quote:
The severity of general or local corrosion in highly stressed steering and suspension components (eg. arms, rods, levers etc) can be assessed by lightly tapping or scraping with the corrosion assessment tool.

A small screwdriver may be used to push and probe, but only in places inaccessible to the corrosion assessment tool.

A highly stressed component should be rejected if it has been

- seriously reduced in overall thickness by corrosion, or

- local corrosion has resulted in even a small hole or split.
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