There are 2 main 'bases' for engine coolant Ethylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol.

Ethylene Glycol:-
Ethylene glycol solutions became available in 1926 and were marketed as "permanent antifreeze," since the higher boiling points provided advantages for summertime use as well as during cold weather. They are used today for a variety of applications, including automobiles. Ethylene glycol has been ingested on occasion, causing ethylene glycol poisoning.

Ethylene glycol antifreeze has a sweet taste that can contribute to its accidental ingestion or its deliberate use as a murder weapon, as attributed by sensational media reports concerning it. Symptoms of antifreeze poisoning include severe diarrhea and vomiting. Farther into the intoxication, signs of delirium, paranoia and intense hallucinations manifest. Antifreeze poisoning can be identified from the growth of calcium oxalate crystals in the kidneys. An embittering agent such as denatonium can be added to ethylene glycol to help discourage either accidental or deliberate poisoning.
Ethylene glycol is toxic to many animals, including cats and dogs, so waste antifreeze should be disposed properly.

Propylene Glycol:-
Propylene glycol, on the other hand, is considerably less toxic and may be labeled as "non-toxic antifreeze." It is used as antifreeze where ethylene glycol would be inappropriate, such as in food-processing systems or in water pipes in homes where incidental ingestion may be possible.
Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat. When this occurs lactic acid is formed. If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive. pH buffering agents are added to propylene glycol, preventing low pH attack on the system metals.
Besides cooling system breakdown, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts, the corrosion rate of the system increases. Maintenance of systems using glycol solution includes regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color, and biological contamination.
(*information taken from [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze"]Antifreeze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Ethylene_glycol_chemical_structure.png" class="image"><img alt="" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/28/Ethylene_glycol_chemical_structure.png/100px-Ethylene_glycol_chemical_structure.png"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/2/28/Ethylene_glycol_chemical_structure.png/100px-Ethylene_glycol_chemical_structure.png[/ame]*)

It's advisable to use Distilled water when changing coolant as tap water will create 'furring' in the cooling system, possibly blocking up smaller coolant galleries over time.
Concentrations vary depending on manufacturer and application but are generally between a 40%-60% mix. Altho Some coolants for colder climates may have a stronger mix of 70%-30% which can offer protection down to -64*C (-84*F) Make sure you check the bottle to ensure correct concentration for that particular coolant in your climate.
this is a rough guide to coolant concentrates and should be used for information only every coolant differs so make sure to read the bottle before starting.
coolant.jpg

*I cannot guarantee the accuracy of the information in this document nor do I take any responsibility for damage to any vehicle or person due to the misinterpretation of the information/inadequate skills, any work that you carry out to your own vehicle is entirely at your own risk. These are guidelines only and if in doubt I kindly suggest that you contact a Fiat dealer/relative organisation for clarification/legalities.*

Tools and Parts


Total amount of coolant needed is 7 Litres

  • 2.1-4.9 Litres of Coolant Concentrate (depending on mix)
  • 2.1-4.9 Litres of Distilled Water (depending on mix)
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • Hosepipe
  • Rag

How To...


  • Remove the under engine cover
  • Loosen Jubilee hose clamp & Remove bottom radiator hose
  • Remove the top rad hose at the rad end.
  • Switch on the ignition (for those with Climate Control), turn the heater control to full hot then switch off the ignition.
  • Stick a garden hose in the top rad hose removed earlier using a cloth to make a bit of a seal then let rip with the water until what runs out the bottom hose looks nice and clean.
  • Use the same method to flush the rad through, sticking the hose in the top pipe inlet.
  • Once everything is flushed out re-attach all the hoses.
  • Unscrew Expansion Tank Cap
  • Fill up slowly until you can't get any more in using new coolant and distilled water.(add half a litre of each at a time to keep the correct mix)
  • Once at the max mark, leave the cap off and start the engine.
  • The level will most likely drop straight away so add more until the level in the expansion tank ceases to fall.
  • Gently undo the bleed nipple on the heater matrix pipe until a steady flow of coolant is observed... gently tighten the bleed screw (not too tight or it will snap off :( )
  • Gently undo the bleed nipple on the drivers side of the rad until a steady flow of coolant is observed... gently tighten the bleed screw
  • Stick the cap back on and let the engine come up to full temperature, making sure its not overheating.
  • Then switch off and let the car fully cool down again before doing a final check on the level.
  • Like
Reactions: Chriselectrics