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Tuning turbo time!
- Thread starter craigb244
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Tuning turbo time!
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Dear Fiat.... M7??!??!.... have words! ! !
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haha, M7 fine....sucks. I was tempted to retap mine!
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Same. Place by me has everything other then them... well they did but cross head crap. They could get be a box of 1000 in what I need lol.
Ordered some from ebay. If they don't work then the M8 tap is coming out.
You had any luck with the hall sensor? I'm just gutting an old VR. What capaciter did you use? And what position did you pot it in?
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never mind... read the datasheet fully and its pretty simple 
what was M7? manifold studs?
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yeah intake manifold studs(or bolts depending on the car)
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Kristian,
finished building the sensor and tested it
works great.
even tho I have set it the way as showen in the datasheet it seems to work opposite to the way i expected (high when off a tooth as you can see from the led been on when its on the -2teeth ) guess it dont mater anyway... could even be the way i wired the led
finished building the sensor and tested it
works great.
even tho I have set it the way as showen in the datasheet it seems to work opposite to the way i expected (high when off a tooth as you can see from the led been on when its on the -2teeth ) guess it dont mater anyway... could even be the way i wired the led
forgive my ignorance.. hall sensor? whats that for exactly?
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Its just another type of sensor for the crank position. It should be more reliable and accurate. Makes the megasquirt bored Much simpler to
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Great stuff :slayer: I would have made a lot of progress if it wasnt for work. An 8 day week of night shifts and 80-90 hours means not much spare time lol.
Luckily I have tomorrow to play. I just tried to log it this evening, but my battery was dead
I installed the sensor with the leads exiting towards the block, is that how yours is done?
I will def have results of it cranking tomo.
Need to get a map/temp sensor for mine from somewhere. I may try and get it running without them for now lol.
Kristian
Luckily I have tomorrow to play. I just tried to log it this evening, but my battery was dead
I installed the sensor with the leads exiting towards the block, is that how yours is done?
I will def have results of it cranking tomo.
Need to get a map/temp sensor for mine from somewhere. I may try and get it running without them for now lol.
Kristian
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yeh was well chuffed when it worked.
the wire just comes out the back as normal(if thats what you mean?). I dont know how I will route the wiring on my new engine yet so went with the safe option
it should help the engine start faster as the ecu can read position from 0rpm (guess it will sync within 360deg)
im going to remove all the old VR components (got to be at least 30 or so!).
only reason being it will make any future diagnostic a lot easier and i hate redundant components
the wire just comes out the back as normal(if thats what you mean?). I dont know how I will route the wiring on my new engine yet so went with the safe option
it should help the engine start faster as the ecu can read position from 0rpm (guess it will sync within 360deg)
im going to remove all the old VR components (got to be at least 30 or so!).
only reason being it will make any future diagnostic a lot easier and i hate redundant components
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You could even skip the opto isolators and run the hall outputs direct to the processor with just a 1k to limit current. Now that is simples
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I plan to...You could even skip the opto isolators and run the hall outputs direct to the processor with just a 1k to limit current. Now that is simples
did you fit the test pin cap? I did mine on the back of the sensor
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figured out my oil cooler setup.
as I can't fit an sandwich plate because the Turbo been in the way (the oil filter just about fits) I plan to make a take off adaptor and run an remote filter.
that means ill need a thermostat as well.
but I've been looking and think ill use a heat exchanger. this will be much simpler and more efficient a oil is kept at coolant temp and will heat as fast as the coolant (oil usually lags behind for miles)
here is the exchanger details... anyone see any problems?
Dimensions L: 7.5" W: 2.9" Heat Transfer Area/Plate 0.012 m²/plate (.14 ft²/plate) Thickness of plates 0.3 mm (.0118") Max Flow Rate 66.6 L/min (17.6 gpm) Channel Capacities 0.018L/channel (.004756 gal/channel) Design pressure 1.0 Mpa (145 psi) Test Pressure 2.0 Mpa (290 psi) Design Temperature -195°C to +220°C (-319°F to 430°F) Refrigeration Capacity 1-5KW (3400-17,000 BTU/hour) Flow direction F1-F3 and F2-F4 (see diag above) Welding Material 99.9% Copper Corrosion Resistance SS304 has good general corrosion resistance to a range of organic and in-organic fluids. It will have poor resistance to sulfuric and hydrochloric acids. Crevice corrosion may also occur when chlorides (salts) are present in the fluid. Since chlorides are in all natural sources of water it is best to use distilled water whenever possible. typically, a unit will last about 10 years with regular tap water depending on salt content. Not recommended for use with salt water.
Manufacture Material Stainless Steel 304
Applications SVO conversions, Heat pump system, household type central air conditioning, after heat recycling, refrigeration equipment, industry cold water machine,cooleroil and so on UL Listed Yes - TUVReinland ISO9001:2000
as I can't fit an sandwich plate because the Turbo been in the way (the oil filter just about fits) I plan to make a take off adaptor and run an remote filter.
that means ill need a thermostat as well.
but I've been looking and think ill use a heat exchanger. this will be much simpler and more efficient a oil is kept at coolant temp and will heat as fast as the coolant (oil usually lags behind for miles)
here is the exchanger details... anyone see any problems?
Dimensions L: 7.5" W: 2.9" Heat Transfer Area/Plate 0.012 m²/plate (.14 ft²/plate) Thickness of plates 0.3 mm (.0118") Max Flow Rate 66.6 L/min (17.6 gpm) Channel Capacities 0.018L/channel (.004756 gal/channel) Design pressure 1.0 Mpa (145 psi) Test Pressure 2.0 Mpa (290 psi) Design Temperature -195°C to +220°C (-319°F to 430°F) Refrigeration Capacity 1-5KW (3400-17,000 BTU/hour) Flow direction F1-F3 and F2-F4 (see diag above) Welding Material 99.9% Copper Corrosion Resistance SS304 has good general corrosion resistance to a range of organic and in-organic fluids. It will have poor resistance to sulfuric and hydrochloric acids. Crevice corrosion may also occur when chlorides (salts) are present in the fluid. Since chlorides are in all natural sources of water it is best to use distilled water whenever possible. typically, a unit will last about 10 years with regular tap water depending on salt content. Not recommended for use with salt water.
Manufacture Material Stainless Steel 304
Applications SVO conversions, Heat pump system, household type central air conditioning, after heat recycling, refrigeration equipment, industry cold water machine,cooleroil and so on UL Listed Yes - TUVReinland ISO9001:2000
Nope -- but the temp guage will be the judge. Brooky recalls a rally car with 2 laminovas fitted. You realise this, I'm sure, but with an oil/water heat exchanger you don't need an oil thermostat.
How does the price compare with a laminova?
How does the price compare with a laminova?
oil/water heat exchangers are a great idea IMO, but it puts a ****-load more load on your radiator. If its barely coping now with a seperate oil cooler, then its not going to cope at all when cooling oil as well...
I used a mocal micro takeoff plate and a small inline thermostat on mine, with a small 13 row cooler.. Temps JUST cope on a hot day (around 100 deg hard driving), but I cant really fit anything bigger...
I used a mocal micro takeoff plate and a small inline thermostat on mine, with a small 13 row cooler.. Temps JUST cope on a hot day (around 100 deg hard driving), but I cant really fit anything bigger...
This comes standard on the cappuccino !
Hvae you looked at rally design kit for relocating the oil filter? Still too big?
!Hvae you looked at rally design kit for relocating the oil filter? Still too big?
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Lot cheaper then laminova. Did look at them and there is no way they would be as efficient as a proper heat exchanger.
only advantage of laminova I see is maybe stronger for rally use.
A heat exchanger like the one I'm going to use is what the t-jet uses. Already looked at it but same clerance problems and it also sticks out the front which will not agree with a cento bay.
Mukul I realise the extra strain on the cooling system. I thick it should be fine. Temps never get high on my 8valve. They hit a Max of 90 in traffic but as soon as you move it stays at 75 or so.
Once the radiator is mounted infront of the gearbox it shouldn't even get hot in traffic.
only advantage of laminova I see is maybe stronger for rally use.
A heat exchanger like the one I'm going to use is what the t-jet uses. Already looked at it but same clerance problems and it also sticks out the front which will not agree with a cento bay.
Mukul I realise the extra strain on the cooling system. I thick it should be fine. Temps never get high on my 8valve. They hit a Max of 90 in traffic but as soon as you move it stays at 75 or so.
Once the radiator is mounted infront of the gearbox it shouldn't even get hot in traffic.
A bulk oil temp of below 115 should be fine with synthetic. Below about 90 there's real risk of fuel from blow by and condensation accumulating in the oil.
