drilled through the weld to reopen the oil ring drains.
spun them in the lathe to check for warpage. nothing bad. tool skimmed a few points right at the ends of the skirts but never really removed metal.
also smoothed the dish out a little (figured smoother will make less places for fractured to start and a better surface for the flame front to travel)
oh and the strange marking on the tops are from dunking them into a weak acid bath for a couple of mins to help free any metal stuck in the oil holes and smooth the surface (its the same as anodising but without the colour )
I understand them but with pistons I cant see it doing "much". I feel they will give some kind of protection when right on the edge of the pistons limit but been that close to the limit would be hard to do (if that makes sense)
either way this is an untried attempt... i dont want to waste £££ getting exotic coatings on pistons that "could" go pop as soon as i turn the the engine over lol. maybe if they work brilliant and I rebuild the engine for any reason in the future then i may get the tops coated.
glad you like the look of them if they dont work at least ill be left with 1 or 2 fancy ash trays
boooo typical...get chance to do some more work on the manifold then run out of gas after about an inch of weld
anyway managed to just cut and tack in the waste gate pipe onto the collector plate.
nice compact position imho a lot different from my original plan of above the gear box (seemed a good idea when i had the block bolted to the gear box but totally forgetting about the masses of cables to the gear box once in the car lol)
waste gate and pipe is just resting in to show the approx position
blah its only looks and I've smoothed the welds on the bits you can see.
thing is to had it tigged I'd of had to pay someone who wouldn't of spent the time getting all the insides smooth/lined up and the tube position perfect so I'd end up with a better looking manifold but most likely not as well fitting with less performance and a much lighter wallet lol
you guessed right. buy believe it or not the manifold does fit without moving it but with only a couple of mm. main reason I'm moving it is due to heat which is worth doing anyway with a Turbo cinq IMHO.
the manifold I've made is tighter to the block then standard and the 16v head is not as wide as the 8v (surface is nearly flush with the block unlike the 8v which overhangs some)