For most stuff, you could at least be guided by eLearn for the 500 & 169 Panda.
Technical Thread stripped on front wheel hub flanges
- Thread starter AAB1992
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Technical Thread stripped on front wheel hub flanges
For most stuff, you could at least be guided by eLearn for the 500 & 169 Panda.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I think there is some reason to using the tiddly wheel nut spanner after all. Its too easy to well over do it with a spider or extending wrench. Use this for undoing only maybe.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I think I have two sets of wheel bolts (brand new) for Panda if of any use, collected as locking bolts fitted to last new cars. Would be glad to see the back of them!
Not tightening the bolts ..so they end up flush with the flange..and minimise exposure to the elements?
Just sounds like it could cause more serious issues..
I think he's talking about tightening the bolts in an emergency, when you don't have a torque wrench to hand - like changing a wheel at the roadside. It's certainly possible to overtorque the bolts with a spider; harder with the manufacturer's supplied wrench.
What I do in such situations is to tighten only the minimum necessary for safety, and then torque the wheels up properly at the earliest opportunity. What you never want to do is to overtighten at the roadside and then have to reduce the torque later. If for some reason the bolts have been overtorqued, then all the bolts should be replaced.
On a road trip, I'd likely have a torque wrench in the car.
Apologies for the delay in replying.
So to have the hub flanges changed with wheel bearing changed it was going to be £520.
I did look on eBay and find two entire pillars with wheel bearings, flanges, and ABS sensors for £45 which I did buy in anticipation of needing them in the worst case scenario.
I had an old rear hub off a 169 to play with first to see how helicoils would go but I have to say it would be almost impossible because the material the hub is made out of is very difficult to drill! So I gave up on that idea.
Then I had a brain wave that why not try and rescue the existing threads because from the images of the bolts they can’t have stripped that badly if I was still able to torque them up.
I found a local shop that sells carbon steel taps. I bought a kit with three in (M12x1.25).
I spent a good hour cleaning the existing good threads up and they were full of crap! The dodgy ones in the end came up as good as new! I was surprised! As you can see from the pictures they all look okay. I replaced the bolts that were damaged as well. Everything has gone back together nicely!
So a job that could have been very expensive only turned out to be £10.95 to sort.
I think as periodic maintenance, I’ll just clean the threads every 6 months or 3 in winter. To prevent this happening again. From looking at the hub itself I don’t think the bolts actually travel all the way through hence why the issue.
Thanks for everyone’s input, it’s appreciated!
Thanks very much for telling us how it panned out, looking pretty good from what your pics show.
On the same theme, and not particularly applicable here, I've found sometimes, when you encounter a stripped/damaged thread, you'll find the existing fixing doesn't go right to the bottom of the hole. Quite often you can then run a tap right down to the bottom of the hole and, using a longer fixing, (bolt) you can "save the day".
As an aside, I do like your tap wrench. Looks like the sort of thing you've probably had for years?
You’d be correct! I got a lot of stuff over the years from doing odd jobs and learning as I went along! A good place for odds and sods tool wise is RDG tools Mytholmroyd, Calderdale West Yorkshire. Do all sorts of things and at a responsible price. They do have an eBay page too
