Technical Sump replacement 500c

[Baglady1990]

I cleaned mine up a year or so ago rubbed it down & painted it (wasn’t too rusty) since I fitted the metal under tray it still looks like it did after I painted it
A good aftermarket under tray goes a long way!!

 

[John202020]

I cleaned mine up a year or so ago rubbed it down & painted it (wasn’t too rusty) since I fitted the metal under tray it still looks like it did after I painted it
A good aftermarket under tray goes a long way!!

Our replacement is now 7 years old might have to give it some Hammerite I've got some spare RED!

 

[vexorg]

It wasn’t rusty when they made it

You say that, I've had many (many) old cars, even still got a vauxhall that's currently over 25 years old, guess how many sumps I've had to replace due to rust? (bearing in mind the fiat was 6 years old on that MOT warning)

 

[Ralf S.]

Given Fiat I'm surprised its not plastic like the newer rocker boxes?

I did wonder about that... but I think there were two main reasons;

a) That hard "rocker box" plastic would likely fracture, if it hit a speedhump something.. a metal one will just dent.
b) Metal is cheaper.

The one I bought was a Febi item, which (compared to the old/abused Fiat one) seems to be made from a bit thicker metal (just my impression).
I think the more robust metal is probably a good thing, since the rim will be more "precise" in manufacture and won't become deformed, twisted etc. in storage or transport, so will fit better (less likely to leak).

In any case, I rubbed the surface of mine up with a scotch pad (black/fine for all you detailing purists ) and gave it a couple of coats of Hammerite smooth (aerosol). Still looks new..

Ralf S.

 

[chris3234]

Given Fiat I'm surprised its not plastic like the newer rocker boxes?

Vag certainly use plastic sumps in some of there engine's

 

[Baglady1990]

Vag certainly use plastic sumps in some of there engine's

So do Audi & VW!

 

[Baglady1990]

I did wonder about that... but I think there were two main reasons;

a) That hard "rocker box" plastic would likely fracture, if it hit a speedhump something.. a metal one will just dent.
b) Metal is cheaper.

The one I bought was a Febi item, which (compared to the old/abused Fiat one) seems to be made from a bit thicker metal (just my impression).
I think the more robust metal is probably a good thing, since the rim will be more "precise" in manufacture and won't become deformed, twisted etc. in storage or transport, so will fit better (less likely to leak).

In any case, I rubbed the surface of mine up with a scotch pad (black/fine for all you detailing purists ) and gave it a couple of coats of Hammerite smooth (aerosol). Still looks new..

Ralf S.

Scotch pads are rather good for under the car .. I rubbed down my SS exhaust after the winter damp and salt
If all goes well with our move … my new garage has a pit …

 

[vexorg]

So do Audi & VW!

VAG = Volkswagen Audi Group

 

[Baglady1990]

VAG = Volkswagen Audi Group

 

[Derbyfella]

I didn’t want to say
but I have had a couple pre my current EV.

 

[puntodeltathema]

Been researching the sump job as I will have to do it shortly for the first time.... Up to now, whenever I've serviced a Fire 8v with a dry or rusty looking sump I've always given it a nice generous wipe over with grease...!

Slightly alarmed to note that - as well as the (whole) exhaust - the official Fiat procedure says to remove the crank pulley and even the cambelt to change the sump....surely not?

I can only assume it's to make room for the official sealant cutting tool (which is a right-angle tool you're meant to run round the edge). But what a palaver...and labour charge!

Nick

 

[Baglady1990]

Been researching the sump job as I will have to do it shortly for the first time.... Up to now, whenever I've serviced a Fire 8v with a dry or rusty looking sump I've always given it a nice generous wipe over with grease...!

Slightly alarmed to note that - as well as the (whole) exhaust - the official Fiat procedure says to remove the crank pulley and even the cambelt to change the sump....surely not?

I can only assume it's to make room for the official sealant cutting tool (which is a right-angle tool you're meant to run round the edge). But what a palaver...and labour charge!

Nick

Fiat can keep their official procedures can you imagine the labour fees!!!
It is a shame that the whole front end has to come off just to change a sump! I’ve seen a really funny video on YouTube of a “mechanic” changing one on a ford kA I’ll post it if I can find it!

 

[Baglady1990]

 

[vexorg]

The job that just seems to keep giving...

I'd have changed the oil filter if putting new oil in.

 

[Ralf S.]

The only awkwards is the exhaust has to be moved out of the way. My manifold separated at the join with the flexi and the manifold nuts came out without any drama (although a couple of them came off on the studs). Otherwise you don't need to remove anything else.

Ralf S.

 

[Derbyfella]

The job that just seems to keep giving...

I'd have changed the oil filter if putting new oil in.

The start of that vid was like a comedy.
Definately can laugh at it, but its deffo going to be a pain...gonna speak to the bloke at work in the garage

 

[Baglady1990]

The start of that vid was like a comedy.
Definately can laugh at it, but its deffo going to be a pain...gonna speak to the bloke at work in the garage

Ya think! Not to mention he destroyed the heat shield and suggested the car didn’t need one! And I think he sheered off some manifold studs
He also left the old gasket on…..

I definitely wouldn’t be visiting that place!

 

[Baglady1990]

The only awkwards is the exhaust has to be moved out of the way. My manifold separated at the join with the flexi and the manifold nuts came out without any drama (although a couple of them came off on the studs). Otherwise you don't need to remove anything else.

Ralf S.

I had the bumper off ..rad off then the heat shield
I needed to work face to face with those nuts …knowing my luck if I hadn’t …maybe I’d have sheared some studs off!

 

[puntodeltathema]

Does the front frame strictly have to come off to get the heatshield off? Can one get away with taking the rad fan off?

I note the Haynes manual (I know...) says you just undo a few bits like the transmission brace bracket, undo the sump bolts, cut the sealant and bob's your uncle. A "three spanner" job....

 

[Ralf S.]

I had to take the lambda sensor off, then I was able to remove the heat-shield without too many dramas (I can't remember anything remarkable about it, other than one of the bottom nuts sheared off the threaded rod that attaches it to the manifold).

I'll have a look how I refitted it... I remember I tightened it up somehow, so it wasn't left to rattle.

With the heat-shield off, you can reach the manifold nuts. Don't worry if the studs unscrew.. but if they do, be prepared to be able to screw them back in. You'll need a stud socket for an M8 stud. If you can't remove the seized nut from the socket, you could just screw in the nut/stud as if it was a bolt.. although I don't like doing that... Put it back in the same place it came from but if you use some lube on the thread, reduce the torque on your wrench (or just be careful when tightening it up).

If the manifold separates from the exhaust flexi, that's 50% of the potential ball-ache out of the way. The top-side is fairly easy.


Ralf S.