That does look like the right part but, as you say, very expensive. The one I've ordered is £50, I just hope the dealer is right about it being the correct one for my car. I will know soon hopefully.
Technical Sticking clutch pedal
- Thread starter heraldsteve
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Technical Sticking clutch pedal
That does look like the right part but, as you say, very expensive. The one I've ordered is £50, I just hope the dealer is right about it being the correct one for my car. I will know soon hopefully.
Sorry to intrude on the thread. My master cylinder needs replacing too, as it is leaking. The garage has quoted me £270 fitted, ive used this garage for every one of my cars since 2003 and i've never had to question value for money but i believe the master cylinder is an expensive part and is only stocked at the FIAT dealers. I have found one however on shop4parts for £138 inc and its a genuine FCA, so my question is, is £270 a fair price?
My car is a 500 1.4 16v 6 speed Sport, 2008.
My car is a 500 1.4 16v 6 speed Sport, 2008.
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Sounds a bit high to me. I've just done my master cylinder for the first time and it didn't take long once I worked out what I needed to do.
My wife's Twinair has started having sticky clutch pedal and it's not a pleasant experience to be first car at the traffic lights and not be able to drive away. Had a look at the pedal in the footwell and the master cylinder squeaks when pressing the clutch in. I sprayed some ptfe lubricant and now is not sticking anymore but I am aware this is just temporary. Does anyone know the part no for the Twinair master cylinder and also is there any guide on how to change it?
Changing it is not too difficult (just done mine) but it is quite awkward to get to. Mine is a 2009 Multijet so will be a bit different.
I removed the air filter box, undid the coolants reservoir and moved it to one side, and removed the diesel filter and moved it to one side. From there the master cylinder fixing nuts can be seen but it tricky to get to them, but using a combination of extension bars and knuckle I was able to undo them.
From inside the car the piston rod can be prised off the pedal. The fluid feed pipe is cabletied to the cylinder so it's easy to remove. The pipe leading to the slave cylinder is held in place be a clip that can be removed using a small screwdriver, be careful not to loose the clip in case you need to reuse it.
I removed the air filter box, undid the coolants reservoir and moved it to one side, and removed the diesel filter and moved it to one side. From there the master cylinder fixing nuts can be seen but it tricky to get to them, but using a combination of extension bars and knuckle I was able to undo them.
From inside the car the piston rod can be prised off the pedal. The fluid feed pipe is cabletied to the cylinder so it's easy to remove. The pipe leading to the slave cylinder is held in place be a clip that can be removed using a small screwdriver, be careful not to loose the clip in case you need to reuse it.
Cheers for the details, they are helpful, I have identified the master cylinder in the engine bay, access seems ok on the TwinAir. I have also found the part number in case someone else needs it, it is 55225453 but shop4parts seem to be out of stock. One more question, does the clutch need bleeding after replacing the master cylinder and if yes, what is the procedure?
Yes it will need bleeding. First you need to locate the slave cylinder as that's where it is bled from. On my car I had to remove the battery and battery tray to gain access. From there I recommend watching a YouTube video for the bleeding process as that is far easier than describing it.
Uodate: The new slave cylinder arrived and it's the right one 
It's now fitted, bled and working. The only is issue is I'm now getting a warning 'check engine' accompanied by the usual engine fault light.
I haven't road tested it due to time constraints but it runs normally on the driveway. I will get the diagnostic software out when I get chance and hopefully it's something simple.
It's now fitted, bled and working. The only is issue is I'm now getting a warning 'check engine' accompanied by the usual engine fault light.I haven't road tested it due to time constraints but it runs normally on the driveway. I will get the diagnostic software out when I get chance and hopefully it's something simple.
I forgot to give an update. The car stood for a couple of weeks as I went away. When I got back I started the car and no warning messages. It's been used a few times since with no further problems (tempting fate?).
