Technical No clutch pedal - slave cylinder?

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Technical No clutch pedal - slave cylinder?

Drozich

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My Daughter’s 2017 500S 1.2 5spd had an issue tonight. Came to a stop and then when pressing the clutch pedal to move away the pedal went to the floor.

Got the car to safety and had a quick look. Fluid reservoir empty and signs of oily splatters around top of box and on radiator pipes, slam panel and that area. No signs of dripping underneath at that point. When pressing pedal, the little rod from the slave cylinder barely moves, if at all.

Checked in driver footwell and no fluids, checked master cylinder and no leaks.

Car is safe but needs recovering home tomorrow so I can sort.

I am guessing slave cylinder. Could anyone advise? Also, is it an easy job or is bleeding a pain?

Thanks as always,
Stevie
 
It's under the passenger wing chassis rail, it often corrodes and leaks, check this first?
20170312_133951.jpg
 
Its an easy job. The pipes have quick release fittings. They dont work very well! I managed to get the pipe off the slave cyclinder with no trouble and just put it back on the new slave. The quick release fittings have tiny o rings in side. I decided to swap the o rings from the new pipes that came with my slave cyclinder which would have been good if I hadnt then dropped the new one.... I put the old o ring back and have not had any leaks since so with luck you will be the same. The problem with the pipe from master cylinder to slave is a two piece thing. The join is under the front chassis leg as shown above and mine was fused together, The pipe is expensive, hence leaving the old pipes in place. Slave has a small allen screw in the top to open the bleed valve. I filled the system with fluid and opened the valve it nearly self bled, just needing a couple of pumps of the pedal to complete. he master cylinder was no more trouble. I managed three weeks after surgery so normally this is a job that can be done in about an hour including coffee breaks. Remove the battery and support tray and all will be revealed.

If the pipe join has failed I saw new ones (different style but looked to do exactly the same) on eBay that looked as if they would be fine for jsut a few pounds and would suggest trying that as first option.
 
See my post 16 for the repair kit, and also a cheap link to the slave if still available
 
Its an easy job. The pipes have quick release fittings. They dont work very well! I managed to get the pipe off the slave cyclinder with no trouble and just put it back on the new slave. The quick release fittings have tiny o rings in side. I decided to swap the o rings from the new pipes that came with my slave cyclinder which would have been good if I hadnt then dropped the new one.... I put the old o ring back and have not had any leaks since so with luck you will be the same. The problem with the pipe from master cylinder to slave is a two piece thing. The join is under the front chassis leg as shown above and mine was fused together, The pipe is expensive, hence leaving the old pipes in place. Slave has a small allen screw in the top to open the bleed valve. I filled the system with fluid and opened the valve it nearly self bled, just needing a couple of pumps of the pedal to complete. he master cylinder was no more trouble. I managed three weeks after surgery so normally this is a job that can be done in about an hour including coffee breaks. Remove the battery and support tray and all will be revealed.

If the pipe join has failed I saw new ones (different style but looked to do exactly the same) on eBay that looked as if they would be fine for jsut a few pounds and would suggest trying that as first option.
Just to confirm mate. You used the original pipe work and then just replaced the cylinder itself, removing the new pipe work from it first?
That’s assuming the dry break connector isn’t at fault? Thank you!
 
Just to confirm mate. You used the original pipe work and then just replaced the cylinder itself, removing the new pipe work from it first?
That’s assuming the dry break connector isn’t at fault? Thank you!
Yes just swapped the slave cylinder to existing pipe and it gave no issues. Its effetcively a push fit held in with a little clip that should just pull out. I needed a small flat screw driver to start the clip off but that was all. Its sealed with the o ring. I did the master cylinder too, and that came with reservoir and pipe which I broke the reservoir and ditched the pipe so I would buy without the extras! I used LUK parts and they seem fine, and are the same as the original fitted from new. I also kept the pushrod whuch has a rubber cap on teh end which was lacking on the new part. Three bolts hold the battery tray on the Panda one not so obvious.
 
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It's under the passenger wing chassis rail, it often corrodes and leaks, check this first?
View attachment 428461
Hi - if i understand correctly the clutch master cylinder (and slave) are fed from the brake master cylinder reservoir? So if this connection leaks it could lead to brake failure too if all the fluid leaks out?
 
Hi - if i understand correctly the clutch master cylinder (and slave) are fed from the brake master cylinder reservoir? So if this connection leaks it could lead to brake failure too if all the fluid leaks out?

Yes in theory, but no. The reservoirs in twinned systems have a separate compartment within the reservoir, so that even if you completely drained the clutch circuit, the brake circuit would still have fluid in it. The only way to have a brake failure is to bleed air into the brake circuit (the old "Mafia goodbye" of cutting a single brake line, which leads to a car piling at full speed into a strategically placed snow plough etc. only works in the movies).


Ralf S.
 
I too left the keeper on the plunger as tge factory on seemed to have one on, I just un clipped the ends so it could be re used in the future
Does this one fit the FIAT 500, 1.2 Fuel engine? if yes, where can I buy it? it seems very cheap.
 
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