Technical Squeaking & Tight clutch

[Ssilexxa]

Hi all,
Just want some assistance regarding my clutch in my 2009 Sport. I’ve only owned it 6 months and I’m not willing to give it up just because of this issue.
After about 20 minutes of driving, or less if there’s heavy clutch use (I.e. traffic etc) my clutch become tight and starts squeaking when depressed and released. This makes the car incredibly difficult to drive as it tends to jump above the bite.
I believe it’s the slave cylinder, but I am not an expert in these things - would it be worth checking something else before i jump straight into replacing it
Below is a video of the squeak

 

[puntodeltathema]

Hi - yes that sounds like a fairly classic slave cylinder issue. Replacement is actually reasonably straightforward (it is external to the clutch, mounted on top of the gearbox under the battery). Supplies of the part are a little sporadic these days, and prices vary - but a place like Shop4Parts online is a good bet.

 

[Ssilexxa]

Hi - yes that sounds like a fairly classic slave cylinder issue. Replacement is actually reasonably straightforward (it is external to the clutch, mounted on top of the gearbox under the battery). Supplies of the part are a little sporadic these days, and prices vary - but a place like Shop4Parts online is a good bet.

Thank you! I’ll get one ordered this morning!

 

[steveras57]

Thank you! I’ll get one ordered this morning!

Read the other threads on here regarding replacement(not trying to dismantle the so called quick release coupling) as it will make the job easier!.
whilst under there check the condition of the battery earth strap and replace if at all suspect! saves taking it all apart again another time!.

 

[puntodeltathema]

Yes, even if you get a cylinder with a long plastic pipe attached it's best to discard the latter and the "quick" (haha) connector on the end of it, if the corresponding one on the car (in the passenger side wheelarch) is not leaking. There's a small spring clip where the pipe enters the slave cylinder which can be eased out upwards with a flat screwdriver, to withdraw the pipe. The corresponding pipe end on the car may be a little corroded so clean up with a file or emery paper (avoiding damage to the O-ring). Make sure the pipe end pushes fully home in the cylinder (right up to the shoulder on the pipe) and use the new spring clip - or make sure the old one is nice and tight and not splayed. (If the clip becomes splayed note the pipe can detach under hydraulic pressure - been there, got the T-shirt ). Then bleed the system (note the little hex-headed bleed screw is only in plastic and can strip quite easily - so don't over tighten) and job's a good'un.

 

[Ssilexxa]

Thanks for all the help guys - I’ve ordered the part and should be with me in the next few days. My dad is going to help me do it

 

[steveras57]

Thanks for all the help guys - I’ve ordered the part and should be with me in the next few days. My dad is going to help me do it

A dad is the most versatile tool in the box! pretty much the only one you really NEED!

 

[Ssilexxa]

A dad is the most versatile tool in the box! pretty much the only one you really NEED!

100% agree! I wouldn’t normally ask him but I’ve already took this car to two garages for them both to go ‘oh there’s nothing wrong we can’t recreate the fault’ so at this point I’ll just take the chance and do it

 

[The Panda Nut]

Hi - yes that sounds like a fairly classic slave cylinder issue. Replacement is actually reasonably straightforward (it is external to the clutch, mounted on top of the gearbox under the battery). Supplies of the part are a little sporadic these days, and prices vary - but a place like Shop4Parts online is a good bet.

I changed the master and slave cylinders on our Panda with a very little help from my daughter, 3 days after major abdominal surgery and can attest its an easy job. Top quality OEM spares were c £160 and 100cc of brake fluid.

 

[John202020]

You need to remove the battery and its tray, careful undoing the tray bolts it's very possible they've never been out, be prepared for them to snap off, the battery lead clips(that hold the cables not to the battery)are slightly tricky to release but no real hardship, I'd guess the car has already had a new engine earth strap but check this, its very easy to see/access when doing this job and is very cheap to replace £5, brake fluid usually leaks all over the place when bleeding the system, normal.
Check the quick connector under the passenger chassis rail, just incase too.
Leave the "keeper" on the end of the slave cylinder push rod, you'll see the original has a plastic end too, just unclip the end at the main slave body

 

[The Panda Nut]

You need to remove the battery and its tray, careful undoing the tray bolts it's very possible they've never been out, be prepared for them to snap off, the battery lead clips(that hold the cables not to the battery)are slightly tricky to release but no real hardship, I'd guess the car has already had a new engine earth strap but check this, its very easy to see/access when doing this job and is very cheap to replace £5, brake fluid usually leaks all over the place when bleeding the system, normal.
Check the quick connector under the passenger chassis rail, just incase too.
Leave the "keeper" on the end of the slave cylinder push rod, you'll see the original has a plastic end too, just unclip the end at the main slave body

Unless you are a masochist I would not change the pipes. As above they y are a push fit with a keeper clip. That means you leave the satanic joining piece under the battery entirely alone!

 

[John202020]

This is the bit to leave on, just release the tabs each side