Shop4Parts - UK's largest online superstore for FIAT and Alfa Romeo parts

Technical Smell + noise?

Currently reading:
Technical Smell + noise?

chris3234 said:
They will be specific to each make of calipers

Manufactures often fit different brands of calliper depending on stock and whos supplying them at that time ect

Bosch are very common bits there's a lot of others
My current Tipo has Mando calipers but some versions have Bosch I believe
Click to expand...
Mine has Bosch calipers
 
Also, the seal around the piston has a tear on one side, I suspect didn't help when I used the g-clamp to retract it.
Does this need sorting asap? If so, is a rebuild kit the easiest option?

Edit - and if yes to rebuild, do I just get a seal kit and use the same piston?

IMG_20200613_144847.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The hydraulic seal is a square section O ring (like a piston ring) inside the cylinder. You have a damaged dust seal which will lead to internal corrosion.

Looking at the state of it, I would get an exchange rebuilt caliper. Pair actually as the other side wont be much better. Also check the brake hoses for perished rubber.

When pushing pistons back, open the bleed nipple with a drain tube. It's easier to push and blows the old oil out of the caliper. Top up the master reservoir as needed.

These brand new are 2/3 the cost of exchange rebuilds
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Premiu...965720?hash=item2636f7c8d8:g:uC8AAOSw2MVecJ3s

Or check your preferred auto spared outlet.
 
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
DaveMcT said:
The hydraulic seal is a square section O ring (like a piston ring) inside the cylinder. You have a damaged dust seal which will lead to internal corrosion.

Looking at the state of it, I would get a rebuilt caliper. Pair actually as the other side wont be much better. Also check the brake hoses for perished rubber.


When pushing pistons back, open the bleed nipple with a drain tube. It's easier to push and blows the old oil out of the caliper. Top up the master reservoir as needed.
Click to expand...
Do I really need to get a rebuilt caliper, or can I just get the rebuild kit and do it myself? It doesn't look particular difficult to fit new seals + piston.
 
 
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Just been for a longer drive, steel wheels were really warm when I was done.. not reassuring!!
Could still smell the warm brake (I assume) smell at low speeds in the cabin.

Ugh!
 
Don't worry about it now give it a while to settle in . New pads van smell noticeably to start with until they have been through a few heat cycles to drive off volatile compounds in components they are made from.
Had pad brand did you go for in the end?
 
jackwhoo said:
Don't worry about it now give it a while to settle in . New pads van smell noticeably to start with until they have been through a few heat cycles to drive off volatile compounds in components they are made from.
Had pad brand did you go for in the end?
Click to expand...
So the heat is normal too?
Febi-bilstein.
 
Gman88667733 said:
So the heat is normal too?
Febi-bilstein.
Click to expand...
Honestly I can't tell from here.

Jacked up If you can turn the wheel by gentle hand pressure then the brake isn't dragging.

If you go for a drive without braking and the wheel gets hot hot then you have a problem .

If both wheels are equally warm then it is unlikely you have a dragging caliper.
 
jackwhoo said:
Honestly I can't tell from here.

Jacked up If you can turn the wheel by gentle hand pressure then the brake isn't dragging.

If you go for a drive without braking and the wheel gets hot hot then you have a problem .

If both wheels are equally warm then it is unlikely you have a dragging caliper.
Click to expand...
Both were equally warm I believe. I'll give it a go driving with no proper braking and test.

I'll just keep an eye on it, I'll jack it up a few times this week and check the free spinning on each wheel.
 
Gman88667733 said:
Just been for a longer drive, steel wheels were really warm when I was done.. not reassuring!!
Could still smell the warm brake (I assume) smell at low speeds in the cabin.

Ugh!
Click to expand...

my steel wheels don't get hot. Barely warm with gentle braking

On flat roads

obviously coming down steep hills would be different
 
Last edited:
I'm sure it's fine the brakes are not dragging , the wheels turn freely when car lifted with a jack
 
I'm sure the steel wheels didn't get particularly warm before the new brakes. Any reason that could cause this?
 
koalar said:
my steel wheels don't get hot. Barely warm with gentle braking

On flat roads

obviously coming down steep hills would be different
Click to expand...
On this particular drive, we came down about 5 miles of steepish hills.
The next drive this evening is all uphill, so will barely use the brake for a lot of the drive, so I'll test it them
 
jackwhoo said:
I'm sure it's fine the brakes are not dragging , the wheels turn freely when car lifted with a jack
Click to expand...


I check mine fairly regularly. The "wheels" never get "hot" to touch. I have had wheels get hot when wheel bearings have gone or raced but not on normal driving.
 
koalar said:
I check mine fairly regularly. The "wheels" never get "hot" to touch. I have had wheels get hot when wheel bearings have gone or raced but not on normal driving.
Click to expand...
Just seems odd that I'm sure the wheels never got so warm before changing the discs and pads
 
Gman88667733 said:
On this particular drive, we came down about 5 miles of steepish hills.
The next drive this evening is all uphill, so will barely use the brake for a lot of the drive, so I'll test it them
Click to expand...
Brakes work by transforming the energy of the momentum of the car/truck/train/airplane into heat .

Think of the amount of energy it takes by burning fuel to get your car to the top of a hill. When coming down that hill that energy has to be transformed into another form of energy to slow and eventually stop the car.

The brakes transform the energy into heat.

Your brakes will get hot. If they are slowing a car from 60mph to zero they will get twice as hot as slowing the same car from 30mph to zero. If slowing down at about the same rate of deceleration.

The heat from the brakes is radiated away from the brakes as infrared heat radiation, conducted away into other car components such as the wheels to which the brakes are bolted and the air around the brakes.

If you are a gentle brake user and look well ahead when driving to conserve you momentum(energy) and so use your brakes less than a heavier brake user your brakes and all the car parts around them will be cooler than the heavy braker .
This is because you have put less energy into your brakes.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
General Knocking noise
Replies
3
Views
241
Blueboy54123
B
U
Technical Rattling noise in certain gears
Replies
15
Views
244
DaveMcT
D
S
General Tackling Road Noise
Replies
19
Views
997
DaveMcT
D
R
Technical Fiat panda 169 4x4 screaching noise
2
Replies
24
Views
538
riostomi
R
Keepthe12alive
Technical Smell of petrol
Replies
13
Views
903
Keepthe12alive
Keepthe12alive
Back
Top