Technical  Slow picking up

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Technical  Slow picking up

great videos 👍

First video sound about right to me

All cylinders sound like they are firing

From the rear it does not sound right to me. However could be due to the LTF trims are still at -100. It will take time to readjust


Did all the leads snap on nicely now
 
great videos 👍

First video sound about right to me

All cylinders sound like they are firing

From the rear it does not sound right to me. However could be due to the LTF trims are still at -100. It will take time to readjust


Did all the leads snap on nicely now
Yes the leads pushed on a clicked easily before I was really forcing them down and they just didn’t feel tight. Ok then I will drive it around a bit and see if they alter. You think the sound from the exhaust is not normal though? Also when I was sitting in the car the idle seamed steady when 1st started but when at temperature the rev counted stays stable but you can feel it jumping. Thanks again as always for your input will post back when I have drove it around for a while.
 
Yes the leads pushed on a clicked easily before I was really forcing them down and they just didn’t feel tight. Ok then I will drive it around a bit and see if they alter. You think the sound from the exhaust is not normal though? Also when I was sitting in the car the idle seamed steady when 1st started but when at temperature the rev counted stays stable but you can feel it jumping. Thanks again as always for your input will post back when I have drove it around for a while.
Yes
Sounds normal under the bonnet

There’s not a regular misfire from the exhaust but it appears not to be as even as normal. Almost like it’s choking or coughing.

Needs a 5 minute drive as the system will need to normalise

Then look at the long term fuel trims and see if they are still maxed out at -100
 
Yes
Sounds normal under the bonnet

There’s not a regular misfire from the exhaust but it appears not to be as even as normal. Almost like it’s choking or coughing.

Needs a 5 minute drive as the system will need to normalise

Then look at the long term fuel trims and see if they are still maxed out at -100
Ok then an update drove the car around a fare bit on Sunday and to me it’s definitely idling worse as you can feel the car shacking your legs when sitting inside at idling my daughter also mentioned this so not me being fussy. The fuel trims are also still the same. My daughter spotted that the green eye on the battery was grey and not green this was after we had been out. Could this have anything to do with it as I thought a low battery can cause problems? I’m going to take it off and charge it anyway. My daughter also took a couple of pictures of the exhaust would that cause anything I think it’s just the clamp rotten but not looked properly. Thanks again for all the help.
 

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Ok then an update drove the car around a fare bit on Sunday and to me it’s definitely idling worse as you can feel the car shacking your legs when sitting inside at idling my daughter also mentioned this so not me being fussy. The fuel trims are also still the same. My daughter spotted that the green eye on the battery was grey and not green this was after we had been out. Could this have anything to do with it as I thought a low battery can cause problems? I’m going to take it off and charge it anyway. My daughter also took a couple of pictures of the exhaust would that cause anything I think it’s just the clamp rotten but not looked properly. Thanks again for all the help.
Yes battery
No exhaust
 
If the exhaust is leaking around there, yes it may skew the O2 readings.
If some of the gas is leaking out, it can't get a correct reading of the gas.
It's worth getting under there to check properly.


Does your diagnostic tool monitor Fuel Status?
If so, can you check it cold starts in Open Loop and after a minute of so switches to Closed Loop?

If it's getting stuck for some reason in an preset Open or Closed Loop Fault setting because of another issue. IT may run lumpy, the O2 may read rich and the system may report a negative fuel trim, but it may just ignore all that as it's stuck in one of these Loop Fault settings.

The system is designed to protect the engine and cat if it thinks there's a problem with something, usually the O2 not heating fast enough so it won't switch fast enough.

Some moe info on fuel loops.
 
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If the exhaust is leaking around there, yes it may skew the O2 readings.
If some of the gas is leaking out, it can't get a correct reading of the gas.
It's worth getting under there to check properly.


Does your diagnostic tool monitor Fuel Status?
If so, can you check it cold starts in Open Loop and after a minute of so switches to Closed Loop?

If it's getting stuck for some reason in an preset Open or Closed Loop Fault setting because of another issue. IT may run lumpy, the O2 may read rich and the system may report a negative fuel trim, but it may just ignore all that as it's stuck in one of these Loop Fault settings.

The system is designed to protect the engine and cat if it thinks there's a problem with something, usually the O2 not heating fast enough so it won't switch fast enough.

Some moe info on fuel loops.
Hi there yes it’s open loop when cold started and then goes to close loop it also goes to another status if you hold the revs on but can’t think what it was sorry.
 
No black soot
No evidence of leaking

Even if it’s completely snapped off as here on my car


It doesn’t effect the running
 
No black soot
No evidence of leaking

Even if it’s completely snapped off as here on my car


It doesn’t effect the running
This battery has been on charge since about 11:30am and still no green eye if I give the battery a shake the green eye appears but after a minute or so it goes out again is that normal I’ve attached a picture of battery details. What I will do is take it off charge and check the voltage then in the morning check it again.
 

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Cheers

That battery isn’t very old
Didn’t think it was my mom said it was a fairly new battery. Since august 2021 to present the car has only done around 300 miles because my mom broke both her shoulders and after that she found it hard to drive so it’s not had any use just odd trips and mot tests. The battery was flat when I fetched it from her and I just jumped started it so maybe it wants a good charge.
 
Didn’t think it was my mom said it was a fairly new battery. Since august 2021 to present the car has only done around 300 miles because my mom broke both her shoulders and after that she found it hard to drive so it’s not had any use just odd trips and mot tests. The battery was flat when I fetched it from her and I just jumped started it so maybe it wants a good charge.
Sorry to hear about your mum

Batteries in a car need to be charged at least once a fortnight

If left discharged for too long they quickly die

300 miles isn’t enough it would require regular top ups
 
Sorry to hear about your mum

Batteries in a car need to be charged at least once a fortnight

If left discharged for too long they quickly die

300 miles isn’t enough it would require regular top ups
Thanks for that just trying to give a bit of background into the vehicle the information might help with sorting the problems out. So basically it’s been standing really for several years I’m now using it regularly but just trying to get it sorted so my daughter can start using it. The battery is now off charge and saying 13.6 volts I will check it again in the morning. Thanks for your help.
 
Hi there yes it’s open loop when cold started and then goes to close loop it also goes to another status if you hold the revs on but can’t think what it was sorry.
This "another" status might be a clue to what is going on.
If everything is ok, it should cold start in Open Loop and within a minute or so (enough time for the O2 preheater to heat the O2) it should switch into Closed Loop, that's it.

There are perhaps less faults/reasons for it to pull back the fueling than perhaps try and increase it, so we might be looking at the ECU is doing it on purpose.

The ECU might be pulling the fueling back to protect the Cat, which is why you are getting a minus trim due to it having a problem working out the correct fuel/air ratio.

There are a few things that the ECU reads to work out the fueling, anything that effects these readings will screw the fuel air ratio up.
If we presume this "another" fuel status is caused by a slow O2 switch, you need to consider why that would be.

An exhaust leak could be a reason, if the it can't read the gas properly it might not switch properly.

As we see on the plug, if it's pulling the fueling back, it's leaning out so the engine so the engine would produce less soot, plus we've only seen 8 inches or so of the exhaust so it's hard to tell from here.

There are other reasons which could cause this "another" fuel status, like the O2 sensor just isn't up to it anymore.

I am not saying that is it for certain, but perhaps if we can find out what the "another" fuel status is, we might be a step closer.

A few years ago I had something similar with our old 169.
It idled badly, stuttered and was down on power.
There wasn't a hard code stored but I kept getting a pending code related to the O2.
I eventaully noticed the fuel status wouldn't switch to Closed Loop anytime after start up, it just tripped to Open Loop System Fault and I suspected the O2.

As both pre and post Cat sensors are the same I swapped them over and it started running normal again.
 
Thanks for that just trying to give a bit of background into the vehicle the information might help with sorting the problems out. So basically it’s been standing really for several years I’m now using it regularly but just trying to get it sorted so my daughter can start using it. The battery is now off charge and saying 13.6 volts I will check it again in the morning. Thanks for your help.
This morning battery is at 13.06 volts I’ve popped it back on charge for a while and will then refit it.
 
The battery will always measure high after charging due to some surface charge

After fitting leave the headlights on for about two minutes switch them off and wait another couple of minutes and measure the volts again.

This will give you a rough idea of what the resting voltage is
 
This "another" status might be a clue to what is going on.
If everything is ok, it should cold start in Open Loop and within a minute or so (enough time for the O2 preheater to heat the O2) it should switch into Closed Loop, that's it.

There are perhaps less faults/reasons for it to pull back the fueling than perhaps try and increase it, so we might be looking at the ECU is doing it on purpose.

The ECU might be pulling the fueling back to protect the Cat, which is why you are getting a minus trim due to it having a problem working out the correct fuel/air ratio.

There are a few things that the ECU reads to work out the fueling, anything that effects these readings will screw the fuel air ratio up.
If we presume this "another" fuel status is caused by a slow O2 switch, you need to consider why that would be.

An exhaust leak could be a reason, if the it can't read the gas properly it might not switch properly.

As we see on the plug, if it's pulling the fueling back, it's leaning out so the engine so the engine would produce less soot, plus we've only seen 8 inches or so of the exhaust so it's hard to tell from here.

There are other reasons which could cause this "another" fuel status, like the O2 sensor just isn't up to it anymore.

I am not saying that is it for certain, but perhaps if we can find out what the "another" fuel status is, we might be a step closer.

A few years ago I had something similar with our old 169.
It idled badly, stuttered and was down on power.
There wasn't a hard code stored but I kept getting a pending code related to the O2.
I eventaully noticed the fuel status wouldn't switch to Closed Loop anytime after start up, it just tripped to Open Loop System Fault and I suspected the O2.

As both pre and post Cat sensors are the same I swapped them over and it started running normal again.
I get OL when I first started the car and then it quickly changed to CL the other status I’m getting is OL-Drive but it only happens after I release the accelerator pedal after reving it then changes straight back to CL I also noticed today while watching the short term fuel trim for a few minutes at idle it does occasionally change to 0.00% and when it does this the engine tone changes like a very slight surge but this happens very quickly and the trim soon starts to ride back to around -70% and long term still at -100% thanks
 

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The battery will always measure high after charging due to some surface charge

After fitting leave the headlights on for about two minutes switch them off and wait another couple of minutes and measure the volts again.

This will give you a rough idea of what the resting voltage is
Battery I think is ok now and the green eye is back also charging ok at idle on around 14.25 volts. Had a good look at the exhaust today and I have a definite leaky back box which I found by doing your hand over the end of the exhaust test but would this cause the coughing?
 

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