Technical  Slow picking up

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Technical  Slow picking up

Is it really 40, or is that a duff sensor result. A real vacuum gauge would tell you
That is the question

We have to work with what @l33rsk has

We know the plugs are slightly rich

We know the O2 pre CAT isn’t far out

We know the fuel trims are -200 negative

We don’t know if it’s mechanical or reading wrong

I would have put money on the belt jumped a tooth but it’s been checked. Which is why I don’t gamble.

If you look through the forum of the few high minus fuel trims not a single one got fixed that I could find. Not a single one had had a compression test, timing check or MAP sensor
 
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That is the question

We have to work with what @l33rsk has

We know the plugs are slightly rich

We know the O2 pre CAT isn’t far out

We know the fuel trims are -200 negative

We don’t know if it’s mechanical or reading wrong

I would have put money on the belt jumped a tooth but it’s been checked. Which is why I don’t gamble.

If you look through the forum of the few high minus fuel trims not a single one got fixed that I could find. Not a single one had had a compression test, timing check or MAP sensor
No joy I’m afraid this map sensor is obviously faulty as it brought the eml light on and wouldn’t let me clear the code I did look a data anyway and there wasn’t much difference. I’m heading towards this is a misfire as the idle today was a bit hit and miss also when I tried to hold the rpm at a certain point it was going up and down and you could here the exhaust spluttering. Thanks
 
If you can Please post picture of new map sensor and part number before fitting
And old map sensor after removal.

I have a feeling there was a change of map sensor part number and map sensor design around the year of your car .
The clue might be there then because I know this car was a bit uneven on idle from when my mom had it new and she was told nothing was wrong with it so it was left alone until my daughter inherited it and I decided to look into it myself and found straight away from the scanner that something is not right. Replacement map exactly the same as original in picture thanks.
 

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No joy I’m afraid this map sensor is obviously faulty as it brought the eml light on and wouldn’t let me clear the code I did look a data anyway and there wasn’t much difference. I’m heading towards this is a misfire as the idle today was a bit hit and miss also when I tried to hold the rpm at a certain point it was going up and down and you could here the exhaust spluttering. Thanks
What code ?

Two identical MAP sensor should give identical results. Is this a hint ?
 
What code ?

Two identical MAP sensor should give identical results. Is this a hint ?
It was p0105 and I couldn’t clear it so I put the original back in and it let me clear the code then. What I mentioned about the running of the car this was with the original was back in not the new. Thanks
 
P0105 is a general MAP malfuction code.

There could a few reasons for this, like a circuit fault but you are getting something back from it as you have seen that data.

It can also be set when the manifold pressure and the throttle position sensors don't make sense to the ECU, like the MAP seeing a reading it shouldn't unless the throttle is open like a high Kpa, when the throttle is closed. (sound familiar?)


The new senor might be a bit more efficient than the older one and that's pushing the MAP reading over the limit that the ECU targets for that problem.
As you write, there wasn't much difference, but how much is there?

Also, when you write you couldn't clear the code, would in not reset as all or did it come back on again as soon as the engine was restarted?
 
How very frustrating .
The new map sensor gave fault code p0105 for faulty circuit therefore it appears to be new but faulty.
Unfortunately no conclusion can be drawn about original map sensor.
 
the new map sensor is faulty or incorrect for vehicle. Either way it has to be sent back for refund.
 
Sorry you mean the original map isn’t faulty?
Every MAP sensor is identical

If you swap 30 you should get 30 identical results

You have different results one has a P0105 error

We don’t know if we have one faulty or two faulty. We know we have one faulty or not connecting correctly

I suspect to test the new MAP sensor you will have to first clear the adaptive memory which can only be done via software
 
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P0105 is a general MAP malfuction code.

There could a few reasons for this, like a circuit fault but you are getting something back from it as you have seen that data.

It can also be set when the manifold pressure and the throttle position sensors don't make sense to the ECU, like the MAP seeing a reading it shouldn't unless the throttle is open like a high Kpa, when the throttle is closed. (sound familiar?)


The new senor might be a bit more efficient than the older one and that's pushing the MAP reading over the limit that the ECU targets for that problem.
As you write, there wasn't much difference, but how much is there?

Also, when you write you couldn't clear the code, would in not reset as all or did it come back on again as soon as the engine was restarted?
About 3 kpa the code I erased and it said erased but it was still in the read codes and the eml stayed on. Thanks
 
Every MAP sensor is identical

If you swap 30 you should get 30 identical results

You have different results one has a P0105 error

We don’t know if we have one faulty or two faulty. We know we have one faulty or not connecting correctly

I suspect to test the new MAP sensor you will have to first clear the adaptive memory which can only be done via software
I’ve been thinking about this as I’ve got diagbox and a bit of user knowledge to go with it but obviously it only works on Peugeot & Citroen cars can I buy equivalent software and interface that I can use on multiple makes of vehicle to run on laptop as this would give a lot more. Thanks
 
Ok, you can try this.
You don't need to undo the MAP from the manifold.

Make sure the codes are clear, then key off.
Plug the new into the loom, turn on the ignition (not start the engine) and take the MAP reading.
(does the EML/code the flag up at the point the ignition is turned on, if it does it's likely a circuit fault?)

Now take the Throttle Position Sensor.

You can swap over the plug on the MAPs and test the other the same.

Both MAPs should read close to atmospheric, around 100 Kpa like this and the throttle position should be closed (0.2 to 0.5v).
 
Great

With the new MAP plugged in and the ignition on but engine not started does it look like valid data for ambient temperature and manifold pressur
Ok, you can try this.
You don't need to undo the MAP from the manifold.

Make sure the codes are clear, then key off.
Plug the new into the loom, turn on the ignition (not start the engine) and take the MAP reading.
(does the EML/code the flag up at the point the ignition is turned on, if it does it's likely a circuit fault?)

Now take the Throttle Position Sensor.

You can swap over the plug on the MAPs and test the other the same.

Both MAPs should read close to atmospheric, around 100 Kpa like this and the throttle position should be closed (0.2 to 0.5v).
Yes eml and code on straight away when ignition turned on but it looks like this sensor is faulty it’s now showing ok-fault and the map kpa reading is totally missing from the live data now. Thanks
 
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